case head separation

[longhauler]

Had a case seperation on my .257 weatherby chambered in a modell 700. Is there anyone who sells an extractor tool for this caliber? I know there is one for .257 roberts but didnt know if that might work to get it out. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks.

 

[SBruce]

Is part of the case is still in the chamber?

I am assuming yes. An oversized bronze bore brush inserted just into the throat from the rear, and then pulled back out will usually grab the case mouth and extract it. Just experiment with brush size, going bigger and bigger until you find the one that works. If you dont find one that works, then maybe a tool or gunsmith is the only option.

I had one separate in a 220 Swift, only had it once. But If I recall correctly a 270 brush removed it first try quite easily.

 

[Hired Gun]

If grabbing it in the neck doesn't work a brand new 20 gauge brush will yank it right out. You can get a really good bite on the body part of the case.

If that doesn't get it I have a couple more tricks.

 

[X Ring Accuracy]

Whatever you do, do not stick anything down the muzzle you can't easily retrieve. If worse come to worse send it to us, we will break it down, remove the offending case, clean, inspect, reassemble to SAAMI specs, 40 plus return shipping. Let us know, Thanks

 

[longhauler]

Thanks for all the info guys, took it a local gunsmith. Hopefully will have it back in a week or two. Alot of good ideas maybe i wont ever have too use them but good to know. Mainly my fault, shot the brass one to many times. Thanks again for all the info.

 

[SBruce]

How many times did you fire the brass?

Not necessarily a matter of how many times fired.......can be headspace vs. FL/Bump die setting. That was my problem with the 220 Swift initially, little bit on the long side of SAAMI headspace (I mean not even barely measureable), and bumping the shoulder more than needed when resizing.........That's all it took, and it left me "stranded"!

My point is, we can fire our brass a hell uva lot and still be good to go, as long as we set up our reloading dies correctly for the rifle being shot. (factory diections are only general guides).

Not trying to imply that was the case in your situation, but something to look at nonetheless.

Best o Luck!

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

Is part of the case is still in the chamber?

I am assuming yes. An oversized bronze bore brush inserted just into the throat from the rear, and then pulled back out will usually grab the case mouth and extract it. Just experiment with brush size, going bigger and bigger until you find the one that works. If you dont find one that works, then maybe a tool or gunsmith is the only option.

I had one separate in a 220 Swift, only had it once. But If I recall correctly a 270 brush removed it first try quite easily.

Had one stick in an stw once too and it wouldn't come out using brushes. So I found out digging in my tools that you can tap a wood drill bit in lightly and twist a bit and it will back out the case nicely. Just don't get froggy and hammer it in or you will gouge the chamber.

 

[SBruce]

Had one stick in an stw once too and it wouldn't come out using brushes. So I found out digging in my tools that you can tap a wood drill bit in lightly and twist a bit and it will back out the case nicely. Just don't get froggy and hammer it in or you will gouge the chamber.

I can see how that would work. I am assuming it was a pretty long bit, or did you have to unscrew the barrel from the action first?

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

I can see how that would work. I am assuming it was a pretty long bit, or did you have to unscrew the barrel from the action first?

round the hex head on a grinder and put a foot long bit extension on it.