Rem 700 build options....HELP!!!!

[tkruger]

I took my Rem700 chambered in 300 win mag to the range the other day and it has started to have some problems, bolt sticking, patterning instead of grouping that kind of thing. I took the rifle into a smith, He took a look into the chamber with his little scope thingy, cleaned it then took another look, after slipping in the go no go gauges he then told me this firearm should NOT be fired until it was re-barreled. It seems that the previous owner did some back yard gunsmithing. So I am at this junction, I have a budget of 1000.00. I would like to build this into a 1k yard tack driver (the tack being an elk). Do I just send the barreled action into Hart and call it a day or does this budget allow some other modifications that will give more accuracy? I am really asking the old....er......more seasoned members on here what they would do with this budget. Planning on reloading to shoot 210 grain berger VLDs. Currently the gun is in the tupperware stock, no glass bedding, and is wearing a Nikon Monarch 4-16 optic. 3..2..1...........GO!
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S O S

 

[jerrschmitt]

My local Smith could rebarrel and true up the action for about $1000.00. I don't know what hart charges or does for what they charge.

What was done to the rifle that caused the problem?

If you want a tackdriver, I'd consider having the stock bedded along with the action work and new barrel.

 

[tkruger]

It looks like the previous owner tried to "polish" the chamber with a reamer. I am open to suggestions.

 

[Derek M.]

It looks like the previous owner tried to "polish" the chamber with a reamer. I am open to suggestions.

If you want a tack driver and plan on the expense of a new barrel, consider a better stock as well and find the money to do it (if possible).

HS Precision, McMillan, several others will work.

LOTS of great bbls available too.

A buddy of mine had a 270 built with a HSPrecision stock and a 3 groove Lilja tube. At the range it placed factory Hornady SST 140 grains in the same hole. This was right after about 20 rounds to break-in. And none of those made much of a spread either. They were random rounds, some factory Remmy, some were loads I made with minimum charges of VV powder like 165 since it burns so clean.

Good luck

 

[tkruger]

So I was thinking a 1:10 twist for the barrel, what length of tube? I definitely want to get rid of that piece of Tupperware that is currently on the gun, but that can come later once I have the money to get a good one and have it pillar bedded. the main thing I am concerned with is the action and barrel right now. I know this won't be done for this hunting season and that is fine. I am looking for a reputable gunsmith to do the work. Any suggestions on muzzle brakes?

 

[Derek M.]

26" bbl. several smiths right here on LRH. I really don't think you'd go wrong with any.

 

[tkruger]

I really hope I can use one of the gunsmiths from this site, at least then I know we have the same views on long range hunting. I am still in the process of learning so please bear with me. Is there any reason you would suggest a 26" barrel rather than a longer one?

 

[trebark]

Here are my thoughts....

Cartridge:
To take an elk at 1k you will want more powder than the 300wm. Consider 300RUM or bigger. If you like the 30calibers, 1:11 twist is all you need unless you decide you want to shoot the 240grain SMK then you will need 1:10.

Barrel:
In order to realize all the performance the big magnums can deliver, you will want to be 28" or longer.

Brake:
Look at the brakes that have three or four large ports on either side although a radial brake may work, I'm not familiar with anyone using a radial brake on a big magnum though.

Center Shot Rifles makes a great brake called the Muslce Brake.

Center Shot Rifles - Products / Sales

Stock:
Be sure to match the stock to the style of hunting/shooting you intend to do. Given that you want to shoot 1k at game, you should consider the stocks with a vertical grip as a first choice. McMillan, B&C, HS Precision, Manners all make good stocks. Be sure to bed your action into the stock.

Gunsmith:
One of the best, Kevin Cram (an LRH sponsor). www.montourcountyrifles.com

He built two of my rifles:

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-300rum-mcr-70809/#post494570

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-260-mcr-59628/

 

[tkruger]

I really appreciate the advice.
trebark, what is the coal for your 300 RUM? I have thought about changing the chambering but I was wondering if the length of the RUM would be a problem. Would it create an issue requiring me to use the wyatt extended mag? I really do like the RUM cartridges.

Again thank you for the information.

 

[tkruger]

Looking at the COAL of the 300 win mag vs the COAL of the 300 RUM, I would need to change the mag and modify the action anyway. Maybe instead of stopping a the 300 RUM I should just go to the 338 RUM so I can take advantage of the higher BC bullets. Does this sound like a better plan? I already have a savage in .308 so do I really need another 30 cal? Any thoughts on this?

 

[Derek M.]

I really hope I can use one of the gunsmiths from this site, at least then I know we have the same views on long range hunting. I am still in the process of learning so please bear with me. Is there any reason you would suggest a 26" barrel rather than a longer one?

Preference.

27" is the longest bbl you need even though I have 2 at 28". If I did it over again, I'd go 27" max. I don't like big heavy rifles. Just my preference. Plenty of hunters taking game like bear and elk at 1000 with 8-9 pound rifles.

The 300 WM is plenty to cleanly take any elk at 1000 yards. My preference would be a 26" barrel, maybe a #4 or 5 contour

I have a 300RUM with a 28" barrel, #4 contour Shilen select match bbl and it is about as heavy as I like. And it shoots very well.

When I draw (notice I wrote "when") for my limited entry elk tag, I'm taking one of my 7mags and my 30.06 as back-up because much of the area allows for close shots where we'll be. There are also long range opportunities where I'll tote the 7mag. Here's what the specs are:

26" Krieger #4.5 SS 9 twist
MCM stock
Predator action
Jewel trigger (1 pound)
No scope yet, still shopping
Bullet will be either a 168 VLD or 180 VLD, whichever shoots. Nosler brass, Fed 215M primers, and either Retumbo, H1000, Re25, or perhaps Ramshot Magnum.

The .06 shoots 180 Sciroccos into a sweet little hole at 100 yards and about a 4" to 5" group at 400. I'll take a shot at an elk at 500 or less with it

In the event I go to CO and buy an over the counter elk tag, the same 2 rifles will go.

 

[FEENIX]

Looking at the COAL of the 300 win mag vs the COAL of the 300 RUM, I would need to change the mag and modify the action anyway. Maybe instead of stopping a the 300 RUM I should just go to the 338 RUM so I can take advantage of the higher BC bullets. Does this sound like a better plan? I already have a savage in .308 so do I really need another 30 cal? Any thoughts on this?

You've gotten pretty good advice thus far, esp. on using the sponsor gunsmiths. lightbulb

Anyways, Hart Rifle Barrels can install barrel on customer's action. Includes price of barrel, squaring action and lapping lugs. Please specify contour and barrel length. Prices for 1.250" OD & under is $650 for standard bolt action. As others have already noted, the .300WM is capable of taking elk at the range.

If you're considering the .338 route, Joel Russo has a nicely priced http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f25/wby-mk-v-340-wby-fibermark-72563/
for sale for $800 for your consideration.

Please understand that at that range it does not happen overnight, you need other equipment to give you accurate environmental readings (range/distance, wind, cant/inclination, etc ...), proper loads, optics, stable platform, etc ... - practice, practice, practice.

Good luck and happy safe shooting/hunting!

Ed

 

[jmason]

Looking at the COAL of the 300 win mag vs the COAL of the 300 RUM, I would need to change the mag and modify the action anyway. Maybe instead of stopping a the 300 RUM I should just go to the 338 RUM so I can take advantage of the higher BC bullets. Does this sound like a better plan? I already have a savage in .308 so do I really need another 30 cal? Any thoughts on this?

I am not sure if your action would need to be modified in order to accommodate the 300RUM. Check with a gunsmith. I'm pretty sure that Remington only makes two actions LA and SA.

I am unsure of the COAL of my 300RUM load as I measure it with a Hornady comparator on the ogive of the bullet.

BTW...was just out today shooting the my 300RUM. Just so that you are aware, 300RUM has sufficient power to kill both groundhogs AND crows!

Holy crap! just realized I am replying to this thread under my buddy Jmason's screen name. Sorry....TREBARK!!

 

[tkruger]

Groundhogs AND crows huh? well overkill is better than underkill. I will be contacting a smith here in the next week to discuss future plans with the rifle. I will probably just keep it a 300 win mag for now and start acquiring parts to build a 338 on a custom action. But I am going to go with a BC medalist stock, jewel trigger and a muscle brake on this build. I will probably go with a 28" barrel just so I can use every little grain of powder I can in the casing. Thanks again for all the help guys.

Tom