Forster/Bonanza Co-Ax press

[jgss2]

I finally broke down last night and splurged on a new Forster Co-Ax press last night. Of course I had to set it up and load a few when I got home. I have used my trusty rock-chucker for years with no complaints but I had a ton of cabelas points and needed to burn em. I LOVE THIS PRESS!!

 

[mkf350]

I second that notion..... I have also used a rock chucker for quite a few years and just received my new co-ax and sized some 7mm rum, and what a difference. should of bought one years ago...

 

[bigngreen]

That's were my Cabelas points are going too

 

[jgss2]

It is really nice not to have to worry about shell holders.. On top of that you can just feel that its a better press.

 

[AtownBcat]

Hey Guys wanted to ask and see if you had the same issue, I also just got the forester press and im loading 300WM and it seems like the jaws of the shell holder dont open quite enough. I dont notice it when removing the brass but when I load a piece brass it has to be snapped into the holder. And I have adjusted it per instructions. I still love the press...

 

[The Duke007]

I had the same problem until I screwed the needle almost all the way in. Now I have no problem. It's the best press ever made.

 

[jgss2]

I loaded 243 wssm last night woth no issues. Just adjust the screw up a little further!

 

[AtownBcat]

There must be something going on with mine because I adusted the needle up as far as it would go and still stay in the threads and it still just doesn't open quite far enough...no big deal i'll figure it out.

 

[Trickymissfit]

I finally broke down last night and splurged on a new Forster Co-Ax press last night. Of course I had to set it up and load a few when I got home. I have used my trusty rock-chucker for years with no complaints but I had a ton of cabelas points and needed to burn em. I LOVE THIS PRESS!!

You have the best non hydraulic press on the market. But now you get to learn the ropes of why it's the best.

*Power is the big thing here. Properly setup, you can full length size a 30-06 case with no more than two fingers (I can full length size a .308 case with one finger).

* set the shell holder jaws a little loose. This aids in removal and inserting the empty case, and also makes the case align better with the die. I stoned the jaws a good bit to make them slide easier. They do need a drop or two of oil under them as well as ontop from time to time. (this part you'll learn to get them setup for your comfort.) Before installing the jaws I recommend a light stoning of the bolster plater under the jaws with an india stone

* get yourself a handfull of the steel Lyman lock rings for your dies. These are slightly thinner, and allow the die body to float a little better yet. Plus they don't use the screwdriver slotted lock screws.

* I recommend bolting the press to a half inch thick piece of aluminum or cold roll steel plate long enough that you can c-clamp it to the bench top or drill four 11/32 holes for bolts to anchor it to your bench top. Put a ten gauge piece of steel plate under the bench to sandwich the bench between the two plates.

* They've changed the priming system from what mine came with to a different system, so I can't tell you an easy way there. I still use the older system, and works well.

* I use plain old Three N One oil to lube the guide bars

* when you start using the press you need to learn to creep up on you deminsion your working on, as this press will collapse a case like it was nothing (I got pretty good at removing stuck cases while in the learning curve).

gary

 

[Trickymissfit]

Hey Guys wanted to ask and see if you had the same issue, I also just got the forester press and im loading 300WM and it seems like the jaws of the shell holder dont open quite enough. I dont notice it when removing the brass but when I load a piece brass it has to be snapped into the holder. And I have adjusted it per instructions. I still love the press...

you may need to flip the jaws or reverse them. Setting the jaws up is the hardest part of the learning curve. If you look under the press you'll see a long screw with a 1/4-28 thread on it. It has a point on one end. That sets the actual closing and gripping of the jaws (I run mine very loose, and just enough to pull the case out of the die). Install the new case you might need to sorts slide the case sidways to snap it in place. Stoning the jaws top and bottom helps here, and I have seen guys that put .002" or .003" shims under the two bars that hold the jaws in place. Forster also sells a clamping affair that allows you to use regular shell holders. What For? Remember the sliding jaws are not for holding the case during sizing, but for removal of the sized case. My 270 mag works well with the sides for a 30-06. After a few days you'll soon figure it out
gary

 

[BigJakeJ1s]

According to the Forster shell holder jaw chart, you should be using the end of the standard (S) jaw set with the larger opening for 300WM. If that is still not working, the large end of the optional LS jaws will.

Andy

 

[AtownBcat]

Those are what come loaded in the press...it's like it just need to open a few more thousandths.

 

[Forester]

I don't know what the chart says, but for sizing 7mmRem Mag I find the Large side of the LS jaws work well. Should be the same for the 300WM.

I run the jaws on mine just tight enough to pull the case from the die after sizing.

Get past a little learning curve and this press will serve you well.

 

[BigJakeJ1s]

I don't recall which end of the standard S jaws is in use from the factory, but if you are within a few thousandths, it is probably the large end. Might check just to make sure. And then again, sounds like the LS (large end thereof) will work for sure.

Andy