Ohio coyotes ?

FEAR5

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Dec 6, 2010
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I've been hunting coyotesfor a while in oho and easly the hardest thing ive ever hunted. Was wanting some advice on hunting them in ohio. I have electronic calling systems and mouth calls both. Looking for any advice..Thanks in advance..
 
I've been hunting coyotesfor a while in oho and easly the hardest thing ive ever hunted. Was wanting some advice on hunting them in ohio. I have electronic calling systems and mouth calls both. Looking for any advice..Thanks in advance..

first of all you have to know the travels of a pack of coyotes, and work on that first. The elctronic calls are nice (I own a couple), but have a couple major draw backs. You shoot over a couple dogs comming into your call, and your done using that call for about a year in that field. (they ain't exactly dumb). They do seem to respond to a howler all the time as well as a mouse squeaker. The squeaker is only used when you can see that the dog's within a hundred fifty yards. If you see three dogs, and shoot two of them, you can almost forget that lay for a few months. You gotta get everyone of them (you almost never will). Lots of folks I know use a dying rabbit call, and with all them using it I avoid it. Next time you kill one, take a look to see what he's been feeding on. Gut piles left by deer hunters are great to work over, as well as road kill. (just don't shoot on the road itself, but place the dead animal where you can safely shoot over it.
gary
 
Thanks Gary,
I've actually tried the road kill thing, it didnt do so hot this year either. Valtures actually was on it every time i was out. It was gone in three days.. I've seen coyotes in the tree stand every time i was out in bow season, when i went to hunt them couldnt geta single one to respond. I have three chips with six different calls for my electronical call n three mouth calls a howler and a rabbit and a fawn bleat. So i guess i'll keep at it, i love to hunt all year around.
 
Thanks Gary,
I've actually tried the road kill thing, it didnt do so hot this year either. Valtures actually was on it every time i was out. It was gone in three days.. I've seen coyotes in the tree stand every time i was out in bow season, when i went to hunt them couldnt geta single one to respond. I have three chips with six different calls for my electronical call n three mouth calls a howler and a rabbit and a fawn bleat. So i guess i'll keep at it, i love to hunt all year around.

Get yourself a mouse squeaker (the squeeze bulb type). Setup low (I like drainage ditches, or in shallow ravines. Use the squeaker only when the dog is within eyesite, and really about a hundred fifty yards out. Do not use it very much, but just before you are ready to shoot. If you have two or three hunting together, shoot the one furthest away first. The others will stop for a second or two (I killed five one evening like that out in the middle of a big bean field). The dogs ain't dumb, and they seem to remember calls when being shot at.
You got a storm rolling in this weekend over there, and they'll be hunting heavy Friday and Saturday in the middle of the day. After the storm goes out wait a day or so, and hunt the edge of the woodlines (they'll be looking for birds). Also, if your hunting the same basic areas, it maybe time to move onto another patch of ground at least 500 yards away. Lastly are you wearing clean clothes everytime you go out? I wear the same stuff, and only clean it twice a year at most. I never bring them inside, except to put them on. They stay in a feed sack outside rain or shine.
gary
 
I really appreciate all the advice.. I do have a mouse sqeaker, so ill use it this weekend.
As far as my clothes go i have scent blocker that i use for deer season, ill get some camos just for coyotes this year. Ive invested alot of $ in hunting these dogs, and have only shot 2 in prolly 5 years. Can kill anything else like its my job, but these dogs got me puzzled. I think thats why i try so hard to hunt them.
How long do you call for? Also how long do you set up in a spot and do you use the same call in one spot or go from a howler to something else or just stick to that?
Do you live in ohio?
I have alot of land to hunt so i guess i can try some different things in a couple different spots. Some of the land i have is thick though so it makes it hard, i have alot of crep grass which is crazy thick.
 
I really appreciate all the advice.. I do have a mouse sqeaker, so ill use it this weekend.
As far as my clothes go i have scent blocker that i use for deer season, ill get some camos just for coyotes this year. Ive invested alot of $ in hunting these dogs, and have only shot 2 in prolly 5 years. Can kill anything else like its my job, but these dogs got me puzzled. I think thats why i try so hard to hunt them.
How long do you call for? Also how long do you set up in a spot and do you use the same call in one spot or go from a howler to something else or just stick to that?
Do you live in ohio?
I have alot of land to hunt so i guess i can try some different things in a couple different spots. Some of the land i have is thick though so it makes it hard, i have alot of crep grass which is crazy thick.

I live in central Indiana. Similar to most of Ohio in lay of the land. Now I'm finally starting to see a very few fox after they were almost extinct around here. This tells me that we've finally made a serious cut in the coyote population! Coyotes around here like to hunt fence rows, and the edge of a woodline. Once you get an idea of where and how they hunt, you can almost hunt without any calls. I've never used anykind of a scent blocker, but really never gave it any thought. One thing a lot of folks think about a coyote is that they only move after dark. This is far from right. They actually hunt as much (if not more) in the daylight, than after sunset.

Over the years I've kinda came to a conclusion that a guy almost needs two coyote rigs. Something like a 6mm with a 20X scope on it for daylight shooting, and something like a .223 with a 6x scope for very low light shooting (a Burris HBR scope would be perfect). But I'm going to try an illuminated mil dot scope this spring just to see what happens. (so far it looks good)
gary
 
Here is a different idea of cent blocking keep your hunting clothes in a box with fresh cut cedar limbs ends under and on top of them.
 
I kill most of my coyotes waiting and watching when the corn fields are being shelled. I pack and AR and a bolt gun. All you get to shoot at are running dogs and I didn`t do well this year only getting 2, both with the AR and they came out together smoking. I alos drivr the roads and just sit and watch, but don`t get many that way eather. So far I`ve only call in 1 coyote in Ohio, that I saw, and never got a shot at it. It was at nite. My huntin buddy has been down and have not been getting out like I should.
 
The gun i use is a savage .223.. Love it.. Shot my first one with a .300 winchester mag taxidermist said no hope for that one..lol..

So how long do you call in a set?
Also how long are your sets?

Hope im not to much of a bother, or picking your brain to much. Just want a good jump on these coyotes this year.

Me and my buddy are going all day saturday i have around 10 spots lined up to hunt. I already have my walking shoes ready..

Hopefully with all your advice we can take a couple down.
 
The gun i use is a savage .223.. Love it.. Shot my first one with a .300 winchester mag taxidermist said no hope for that one..lol..

So how long do you call in a set?
Also how long are your sets?

Hope im not to much of a bother, or picking your brain to much. Just want a good jump on these coyotes this year.

Me and my buddy are going all day saturday i have around 10 spots lined up to hunt. I already have my walking shoes ready..

Hopefully with all your advice we can take a couple down.

I used to hunt coyotes with a couple 6mm's, and the results were very ugly for them. Later I tried the 22-250 thing, and really wasn't at all impressed. Now adays I shoot 80% of all my dogs with a .223 using 55 grain Vmax bullets (I still shoot a couple 22-250's). I also plug them with a custom 6mm/250AI setup to use very low drag bullets. It's not perfect, but far better than a 22-250. Plus it'll shoot further than I have any business trying to! Now I'm working up a new version of the same round (actually two different ones). One will use a 1.472" shoulder length, and a 2.00" over all length case. The other will use the standard 1.51" shoulder but use a standard .243 case instead of the .250 Savage case. The overall length will finish out at about 2.020 (roughly). Each case will have the .010" taper per inch and also a 40 degree shoulder angle. The shorter one can be reamed with a basic 6mm Ackley reamer run in short, but will end up with a longer than wanted neck length. I don't think these will clean up off a generic .243 case, but I think taking the shoulder back to 1.422 will make it. Barrel will be 23" long with a 1:10 twist (maybe a 1:9.5). The goal is 3250 fps with an 80 grain bullet, but I'd be OK with 3150fps. More importantly is that this round should group better than the 6/250AI or the .243AI due to the better neck design, and thus give me a little more consistent range to work with. The other round should easilly hit 3350 fps, but be closer to overbore as well.

I own four or five .223's in various forms. My two favorite ones are a Remington 700 VS and a 1885 Hi-Wall. Have shot the 1885 very little, but it's FUN! The VS was a junker right out of the box! Shot four to five inch groups at best. The barrel was typical Remington junk, and the rest wasn't a lot better. Rather than send it back (I should have), I chose to fix it, and that was a serious undertaking. The barrel was so bad that it tore up patches. The trigger would actually freeze up in mid travel. The bolt was seating on a .070" burr that they failed to remove. The chamber was cut .007" off center and at about a 7 degree angle. The aluminum bedding block in the stock was pure garbage at best. I ended up doing a chart on the barrel to see what was tight and what was loose. Cut 2.75" off the chamber end, and another chunk off the muzzel to end up with a 20" barrel (really needed about 4" off the muzzel). The chamber is now a .223 national match with a minimum neck diameter (I think it's .251"). Surprisingly the bolt and the action were all fairly accurately machined, and took very little to clean them all up. Used a Tubbs speedlock kit as the firing pin was outta spec. The trigger was a nightmare in itself. The factory trigger wasn't right and nobody could ever make it right. Had the rifle shoot a few times letting off the saftey. Replaced it with another, and did the samething! Then replaced it a third time with a 1978 trigger built up by Ferris, and so far it's been a good one. The rifle has a near perfect balance even with the heavy barrel. Shoots very well off hand with virtually zero muzzel jump; giving me a very quick second shot. It shoots in the mid fours with generic cases. And I figure I lost about 75fps cutting the barrel back (big deal!). It's for sure not a hummer, but plenty good enough for it's intended purpose. It is getting a new Pacnor barrel setup for a barrel nut. The chamber will be .223 NM but this time with a .246 neck. Will I ever buy another Remington? Fat chance!
gary
 
Yeah im no where near into guns as you are. I buy the gun and ammo and shoot. I didnt even understand half that theard..lol..
So how long are your sets?And how long do you call during them?
 
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