Prepping brass

[340Shooter]

Just curious what methods people use. Do you decap, tumble, resize, trim, primer pockets and in what order. I usually tumble, resize, trim, primer pocket, then load. Just ordered a Sinclair primer pocket uniformer.

Comments?

 

[Derek M.]

What I used to do:

tumble, rinse, dry, resize (includes decap), tumble, rinse, dry, trim neck if needed, chamfer/deburr, ready to load.

Since the tumble/rinse/dry crap takes so long, I'm streamlining and just wipe the outside with Kaboom. I plan on buying the steel media and doing that method in the next few months.

I won't run a dirty case in my sizer dies. I know many loaders take a spent case and size it dirty but that makes for extra cleaning of dies too.

 

[Mikecr]

From the range(immediately):
1. hand deprime
2. Twist carbon from pockets
3. Wipe carbon off outside necks
4. Vibratory clean
Log the range results

Later:
5. Lube cases & bump shoulders
6. Check trim length and fix if needed(not often for me)
7. Bushing neck size
8. Vibratory clean

When ready to reload:
9. Run mandrel through necks(for tension adj)
10. Seat primers
11. charge cases
12. Seat bullets

Of course each step is a procedure in itself.
Store ammo with a card detailing the load.

 

[kraky]

Go here and read the first 5 topics....they are fantasticlly well done.....you won't regret it....

Sniper's Hide Reloading - Sniper's Hide Forums

 

[Derek M.]

I found it interesting that the writer dismisses a 168 30 cal bullet for shooting at or beyond 600 yards without explanation. I have a 308 and bought 3 boxes of Berger 168 VLDs to try. Now I wonder if I should send them back and exchange for 175s.

I'd really like to know his reasoning before I do anything.

 

[Mikecr]

It's just a person's opinion, and nothing with a better basis than others.
I breezed through about 13seconds of it and disagree with his contention of starting out jammed through load development.

But anyhow, it's beyond the specific subject of this thread..

 

[Kevin Rohrer]

Clean Brass:
1.Deprime/resize
2. Tumble to clean lube
2a. Trim if necessary
3. Prime by hand or in a dedicated primer tool like the Lachmiller
4. Load and Seat

Dirty Brass:
1. Tumble till clean and shiny
3. Deprime/resize
3a. Tumble to clean lube
4. Trim if necessary
5. Prime by hand or in a dedicated primer tool like the Lachmiller
6. Load and Seat

 

[Derek M.]

It's just a person's opinion, and nothing with a better basis than others.
I breezed through about 13seconds of it and disagree with his contention of starting out jammed through load development.

But anyhow, it's beyond the specific subject of this thread..

I thought maybe he had some extensive experience to negate the reputation that the 168 has carried for a long time, as I understand it, to be the best choice for 30 cal, especially a 308. I don't really agree with the jam either but many times I have started with "at" the lands and seated deeper. The other issue he failed to mention as that as the bullet gets deeper to an extent, the pressure increases again. I know, I did it.

 

[340Shooter]

Does anyone feel the need to uniform primer pockets?

 

[Derek M.]

Does anyone feel the need to uniform primer pockets?

I used to do that until I started having loose fittings of the primer. So I stopped. When my 0.137" groups at 100 yards open up due to non primer pocket uniforming, I'll try it again.

 

[Buffalobob]

The Sierra 168 MK tend to go subsonic at about 800+ yards at low altitudes. They have a very low BC. You should check the BC of the Bergers and see if it is in the same range as the 155.5 Fullbores and the 175 MKs.


Primer pockets should be uniformed if they need it. Lapua and RWS generally don't need it. Sometimes Norma will. Flashhole uniforming should not be done on Lapua and Norma brass without evidence of a problem

Depending on how your juju and mojo are working, you should consider annealing at some regular interval.