300 WSM Reloading question

[Rickyrebar]

Ok, as I have started all of my previous posts, I would like to mention that I am new to reloading, so take that into consideration when answering please. I have got some great responses from several of you, but some responses go right over my head, so please keep it simple.

I'm getting ready to dump powder and go shooting for the first time with my own hand loads and would like some input on different methods for working up loads.

As well, can I get your opinions on the following method for working up a load. A local gunsmith suggested I try this...

He said to follow the load data from my manual (Nosler #6 for a 300 WSM 180Gr. Ballistic Silver-tip), using the components of my choice (W760 powder, CCI Magnum Primers, once fired and FL resized Winchester nickel plated cases). Note: Nosler lists 3 loads using W760 - 60Gr, 62Gr & 64Gr (Max.).
He suggested I start with the middle load & work up loads in 1 Gr, increments to the Max. load, 3 rounds each. I have read, that you should work up 1/2 Gr. increments, his opinion was that with a larger rifle 1/2 Gr increments were a waste of time & components.

At the range, shoot a factory load similar to what I am reloading (Winchester 180 Gr Ballistic Silver-tips), & measure the diameter of the case (before & after) with a micrometer above the head, recording the difference.
Now begin shooting the hand loads taking the same measurements @ the head as with the factory round. The idea was to work up the ladder using the diameter expansion of the fired factory case as a yard stick in comparison with the reloads to determine when you are approaching the pressure threshold.
I wish I had written down his instructions, they made total sense at the time but now I can not remember them clearly enough to be comfortable with it. But, he also mentioned something about pulling a bullet on a factory round and putting the powder that I am using in place of the factory powder, seating the bullet... shooting it and measuring the head... I don't remember exactly what the reasoning was behind that, I think it was to record the "factory" case expansion with the hand load powder.
Anyway, does this make any sense to any of you? I'm pretty sure he was following a method of Ken Waters, he mentioned his books (Pet Loads & Notebook) several times. I need to track them down.
Opinions, suggestions, regarding working up a "starter load" for a newbie would be welcomed.
Thanks

 

[winmag]

I just back off Max load by 10% and work back up to max in 1 gr increments. After reaching MAX(SAAMI) I go in1 or two 10'ths of a grain. But Im anal and weigh each charge and measure each round for coal and each brass etc..... I have to keep my tollerances realy tight because to make my feather wt. wsm shoot good my ammo has to be better than I can shoot.
I also load 5 of each before I reach max then only 3 of each after max. 3 shot groups are ok, but I personally find that 5 shot groups tell me more.
My current load that shoots best in my 270wsm is 1 tenth of a grain over max, and I havent shot over 1moa with it yet. in a couple string of 5 I had 3/5 go .231 but the whole group measured .918 and 3/5 went .541 and the whole group measured .924. I like 5 shot groups for me, but it does waste barrel life. Oh well I love to shoot.

 

[Rickyrebar]

I just back off Max load by 10% and work back up to max in 1 gr increments. After reaching MAX(SAAMI) I go in1 or two 10'ths of a grain. But Im anal and weigh each charge and measure each round for coal and each brass etc..... I have to keep my tollerances realy tight because to make my feather wt. wsm shoot good my ammo has to be better than I can shoot.
I also load 5 of each before I reach max then only 3 of each after max. 3 shot groups are ok, but I personally find that 5 shot groups tell me more.
My current load that shoots best in my 270wsm is 1 tenth of a grain over max, and I havent shot over 1moa with it yet. in a couple string of 5 I had 3/5 go .231 but the whole group measured .918 and 3/5 went .541 and the whole group measured .924. I like 5 shot groups for me, but it does waste barrel life. Oh well I love to shoot.

Thanks for the reply winmag.
Another question, what if any measurable tolerances are there when it comes to trimming cases.
Most of my once fired factory cases are below SAAMI specs. I find the odd ball that is .001 - .003 over (measured after FL resize & they chamber fine).

 

[winmag]

Min specs on my brass for trim length are 2.090. I trim to 2.091 or 2.094 for my dads or mine. If your brass hasnt exceeded max case length, cou can shoot it again. I like all my loads in 1 batch to have tollerances at .001 ttl., so I trim all my brass the exact same. It helps with consistant neck tension. For the next re-load on fired, trimmed and reloaded and fired again there will be some difference in length, but not much. I dont trim again, I just seperate my brass according to number of reloads, and length. I dont have a mic. so I gotta do that part old school. In all honesty, depending on your rifle, you can have 2-3thousandths difference and be fine. I have just found that shortmag brass is a pain in the butt. Trimming to F/L sizing and all the steps in between only to have a couple that dont ''slightly crush fit'' but they ''$#%#$!@$# crush fit'' agitates me, so I spend alot of time making things as perfect as possible. And I have a picky rifle. Not to mention me behind the trigger. I need to give myself every edge I can

 

[baldhunter]

After I full length resize my brass,I just run it through my trimmer that I have set up @ min.spec length.I've found it to be easier than trying to measure and sort the brass and I do this for everything I reload.For me it saves time and keeps my brass the same length.I don't really see anything different about loading my 300WSM than any of my other cartridges I load for other than my rifle seems to have a short throat and I have to be really careful with my seating depth.Other than that,I like it and it's a shooter.