Savage Factory Muzzle Break?

bowhunthard88

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I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with the factory Savage muzzle break. It's a twist open design, but should still be effective. I was looking at the Savage 116 FHSAK in 7mmRemMag as my next long range hunting/walking rifle to tinker with, and was wondering if this break is worth it, or should I buy a aftermarket break and have it installed?

Thanks for the advice.
 
I bought that exact rifle about 2 months ago with longer ranges in mind. I'm happy with the brake, I feel less recoil with this gun, which also has the P.A.D. recoil pad than with my light weight 6mm remington. I do close the brake when cleaning the rifle to keep solvents, oil, gunk out of the ports. I also close the brake when hunting without ear protection. I considered also an aftermarket brake. I know there are more effective brakes, and probably cheaper ones too, but locally the price difference was about $100-$130....and there isn't a 'smith I trust around here. I did see a price of $90 to install one from one shop, I don't know if that is the going rate.

I'm very happy with it and the accuracy is what I expected. The only thing I didn't consider is that the 24" barrel is actually the measurement including the brake, I was hoping for a little more velocity.\

I also bought a Vortex viper 6.5-20 mil dot scope. I'm very pleased with it, especially after hunting with it this weekend. I would recomend it to anyone, I hear they have a great warranty and customer service. There was also a $50 mail in rebate....that makes about $450 when that comes back.

The magazine allowed me to seat 168 VLD's all the way to the lands, but this gun shoots better with alot of jump. I had a post a few weeks back about it, "called low es/sd, accuracy not there".

Anyway, I'm happy with mine let me know if you have any other questions.
 
I bought that exact rifle about 2 months ago with longer ranges in mind. I'm happy with the brake, I feel less recoil with this gun, which also has the P.A.D. recoil pad than with my light weight 6mm remington. I do close the brake when cleaning the rifle to keep solvents, oil, gunk out of the ports. I also close the brake when hunting without ear protection. I considered also an aftermarket brake. I know there are more effective brakes, and probably cheaper ones too, but locally the price difference was about $100-$130....and there isn't a 'smith I trust around here. I did see a price of $90 to install one from one shop, I don't know if that is the going rate.

I'm very happy with it and the accuracy is what I expected. The only thing I didn't consider is that the 24" barrel is actually the measurement including the brake, I was hoping for a little more velocity.\

I also bought a Vortex viper 6.5-20 mil dot scope. I'm very pleased with it, especially after hunting with it this weekend. I would recomend it to anyone, I hear they have a great warranty and customer service. There was also a $50 mail in rebate....that makes about $450 when that comes back.

The magazine allowed me to seat 168 VLD's all the way to the lands, but this gun shoots better with alot of jump. I had a post a few weeks back about it, "called low es/sd, accuracy not there".

Anyway, I'm happy with mine let me know if you have any other questions.

If you had this to do again, would you go with a different gun with a 26" barrel, such as the Rem?
 
In a word, no, not on barrel length alone. I did think seriously about the rem sendero sf II, but would have gone 264win. I don't want to get into rem vs savage........but I like the versatility of savage and being able to change barrels and bolt faces....once again, no trusted 'smith around here.........or at least that I know.

After hunting which included a lot of walking, I'm glad I didn't have a heavier rifle. The other reasons I got were value and numerous good reports of accuracy both online and from people I knew. I never thought much about savage because of the apperance of years ago until I personally witnessed a guy who had never shot a rifle shoot a 1" group with a new savage. Could have been luck, but I saw it happen.

You could always get the stevens 7mag or the plain savage with the accutrigger for $300-$400 and then add the extras, I think they have 24" barrels. Then there are the $399 weatherby's too. Oh wait, now I'm making the decision harder, sorry.
 
I bought that exact rifle about 2 months ago with longer ranges in mind. I'm happy with the brake, I feel less recoil with this gun, which also has the P.A.D. recoil pad than with my light weight 6mm remington. I do close the brake when cleaning the rifle to keep solvents, oil, gunk out of the ports. I also close the brake when hunting without ear protection. I considered also an aftermarket brake. I know there are more effective brakes, and probably cheaper ones too, but locally the price difference was about $100-$130....and there isn't a 'smith I trust around here. I did see a price of $90 to install one from one shop, I don't know if that is the going rate.

I'm very happy with it and the accuracy is what I expected. The only thing I didn't consider is that the 24" barrel is actually the measurement including the brake, I was hoping for a little more velocity.\

I also bought a Vortex viper 6.5-20 mil dot scope. I'm very pleased with it, especially after hunting with it this weekend. I would recomend it to anyone, I hear they have a great warranty and customer service. There was also a $50 mail in rebate....that makes about $450 when that comes back.

The magazine allowed me to seat 168 VLD's all the way to the lands, but this gun shoots better with alot of jump. I had a post a few weeks back about it, "called low es/sd, accuracy not there".

Anyway, I'm happy with mine let me know if you have any other questions.

Do you handload for it? If so, have you ever chronographed the actuall velocity vs. the velocity in your reloading manual taking into account the barrel length?
 
My buddy recently got a savage weather warrior in 338win mag with their break. I shot the gun a few times. The break is very effective at reducing recoil - however it does direct some of the gasses back into your face - I didn't care for that. It is nice to be able to twist and have the break closed for hunting. The gun itself is extremely accurate - 250 grain bullets - you could easily cover 5 shoots at 100yds with a quarter. Personally I like the 3port break that Jim from Center Shot rifles put on my sendero.
 
Do you handload for it? If so, have you ever chronographed the actuall velocity vs. the velocity in your reloading manual taking into account the barrel length?

Yes I handload for it, only a couple of different powders and bullets. I don't have any factory velocities for the exact charge and bullet that I use, but on average I would say 50-110fps slower than ones advertised for a 24" barrell. The one that was 110fps slower was a rem factory load, which some say factory data can be unreliable depending on how they want to make things look.
 
Factory brake is good for what it is. Very good closure concept for hunting.
Back blast in handgun length barrels isn't something I enjoy with the factory brake.

Ultimately it really depends on what or how much you want to reduce recoil. Do you want to see the bullet print on a target or just make a gun more comfortable to shoot?

Neal
 
New member.
Just got home with new 116fhsak, mounted scope and bipod. Obviously not yet fired it. Chambered in .308. Got it at local sporting goods store for $649.00. Great looking weapon, imagine it will perform well as well. Can't wait to get to the range,however it's pretty miserable here in Pittsburgh, weatherwise.
I was wondering if the muzzle break is threaded on barrel, and ifso would it be beneficial or possible to replace with a suppressor? Any ideas would be appreciated.gun)
 

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It is removable, but it is a very odd thread size and pitch. Not likely that you would find a suppressor with the correct threads.

You could cut the tennon off your barrel and have it re-threaded for a more standard size.
 
I just picked up a used Savage model 11 LRH IN 308. The muzzle brake will not move. It is like it is seized. Appears the po tried to move it with pliers and marred the surface. Any recommendations on getting g it loose?
 
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