Anyone Annealing Their Brass?
- Thread starter rangerman
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rsbhunter
Well-Known Member
Annealing is more for brass that will be reloaded 8-10 times...I never worried about my hunting brass....that was most times left in the field....if annealing didn't have verifiable results, F class and BR shooters wouldn't waste their time....but everybody has their own needs....rsbhunter
Harry Knutz
Well-Known Member
Dude, F-Class guys anneal very often if not every time For them it's about neck tension, Not how long the brass will last.
Many different ways big variation in the price and peoples opinion all I will say is yes you need to anneal how you do it is up to you
rsbhunter
Well-Known Member
Exactly..........consistent neck tension...rsbhunter
vancewalker007
Well-Known Member
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I anneal after every use now that I have an Annealeez. They are $275., and worth it these days with brass being so hard to get.
lancetkenyon
Well-Known Member
Yes.
Just started to anneal, and the cost of 338LMbrass made me a convert. Couldn't justify the AMP product, it is a fine piece of gear; however, I just couldn't "pull the trigger". I did spring for the Annealeze gen 3 and am pleased with the ease of setting up for different calibers. Years ago, I did the drill and Trmplaq route but found it a bit clumsy, could have e been my problem, not the concept. At that time I was loading for 25-06, well before factory brass was plentiful.
I anneal after every firing. For me, consistency is key and that means doing the same thing to the brass to get it to the same base line- every time.
I started years ago with a drill, socket, and torch. I upgraded to Annealeez when they first came out. Then I upgraded to an Annie induction annealer. That was a HUGE improvement and when I really saw a true discernible difference in my ammo. Since then, I use an AMP. Induction is definitely the way to go, but you need to ensure it's producing sufficient current and won't destroy itself in the process. If you're going to make your own, the GinaErick type is the way to go. There are lots of plans out there if you google it.
Good luck.
I started years ago with a drill, socket, and torch. I upgraded to Annealeez when they first came out. Then I upgraded to an Annie induction annealer. That was a HUGE improvement and when I really saw a true discernible difference in my ammo. Since then, I use an AMP. Induction is definitely the way to go, but you need to ensure it's producing sufficient current and won't destroy itself in the process. If you're going to make your own, the GinaErick type is the way to go. There are lots of plans out there if you google it.
Good luck.
Some brass is needing annealed when new. I had a heavy barreled sleeved rifle built by one of the top rifle shops some years back and being an Ackley improved I started fireforming. 50% of the new cases split when fireforming. Sent back to gunsmith and was told chamber was correct and the problem was I had brass that needed annealed. A major brass manufacturer engineer instructed me to heat with a propane torch until glowing orange and quench in water. It is brought to a consistent state by the quench, not the initial heat. But initial heat needed to be a glowing orange in a dark room to insure soft enough. If not brought to a soft enough state brass will still be too brittle when quenched. Experimented by pulling button up through neck after increasing temps up to orange. Only when orange did the button not squeak and have correct elasticity. Hundreds of cases been annealed and have never experienced 'over annealing' or damaged brass. I think many annealers are not getting their brass elastic enough. In some cases one firing and resize hardens brass to the point of innacuracy and flyers.
Brass doesn't really respond to quenching like steel. It's been proven quenching cartridge brass has no effect on it, so it's interesting your source says it does
Harry Knutz
Well-Known Member
I just got an email from EP integrations, They are having a 4th of July sale, Their annealers are $249.00 instead of $268.00
IT says to use code word HAPPY4TH2022
Anyway, I have one of these and they are excellent for the money.
IT says to use code word HAPPY4TH2022
Anyway, I have one of these and they are excellent for the money.
I was under the assumption that quenching the brass was to stop the brass from over annealing and to keep the heat from traveling too far down the body.Brass doesn't really respond to quenching like steel. It's been proven quenching cartridge brass has no effect on it, so it's interesting your source says it does
At least that was the direction I was given from the merchant and watching Youtube videos while I was annealing using the salt bath method and quench. It's been a few years since I've used it though.
lancetkenyon
Well-Known Member
I think if you are annealing until glowing orange, you are keeping it in the flame too long. My opinion. From LOTS of research.
