Anyone Annealing Their Brass?

[rangerman]

I've been considering annealing my cases. I've used the battery operated drill with socket and/or adapter and hand held torch years ago. I thought about getting some 700 or 750 Templac and begin annealing again. Might even consider one of the machine annealers but really don't shoot enough to justify purchasing one.
Anyone annealing and if so what have you had the best luck with?

 

[Taylorbok]

I built an Elfster style annealer, I think I've got about $80 into it. works good also.

 

[Mrvmax]

There has to be a hundred threads on annealing. Search and you'll probably find all the info you need

 

[rangerman]

I have and everyone seems to have a different method. I just thought I would ask the LRH community and see what they're doing.
I'm not even sure if it's worth the trouble to anneal but with the price of reloading components including brass I have been considering it.

 

[Barrelnut]

I've been considering annealing my cases. I've used the battery operated drill with socket and/or adapter and hand held torch years ago. I thought about getting some 700 or 750 Templac and begin annealing again. Might even consider one of the machine annealers but really don't shoot enough to justify purchasing one.
Anyone annealing and if so what have you had the best luck with?

I'm not even sure if it's worth the trouble to anneal but with the price of reloading components including brass I have been considering it.

Annealing will make your brass last longer before necks start to split. Most likely the necks will outlast the primer pockets.
I anneal with the socket and torch. It's the only way I have ever done it. For the volume I shoot it makes sense for me. IMO, using a torch and socket is just as good as the automated flame and induction methods. Really just depends on volume. I just annealed 50 Lapua 6BR cases the morning. At 6 seconds per case that was only 5 minutes. Now 500 cases? That's a different story.
Also with annealed cases you may find you have less runout after sizing and seating a bullet. Annealed cases tend to come out of the die straighter with less neck runout.

 

[rangerman]

I'm shooting the 338 edge, 300 RUM , and 300 WM with ADG brass. I have about 50 once fired brass in each of these offerings. I've heard of some folks that like to anneal after every firing and some that wait until after 3 or 4 firings to anneal. I'm thinking I might try after each firing as the primer pockets may be too loose after 4 to 5 firings anyway.

 

[Taylorbok]

If you are going to anneal do it every time, if not don't anneal at all

 

[Pdyson]

It is worth the trouble if you shoot a lot and or compete. Even more so if it's rare or very expensive brass. I'm still reloading brass for my 7 STW that was made in the 90s. I threw out a dozen cases with split necks then got an annealeze and saved the rest of my brass.

 

[Harry Knutz]

I built an Elfster style annealer, I think I've got about $80 into it. works good also.

This

I have one of EP integration annealers, I have used others, The EP is the best and most cost effective in my opinion, Because you don't need to buy any wheels or inserts or collets, The adjustability and it's ability to do rimmed cartridges is why I bought it, It really is the best solution, It's also free shipping, Or at least it was when I got mine. It also takes up very little space on a shelf.

 

[Harry Knutz]

Doing it with a drill is okay, But you are not going to get the consistency.

 

[Mike Matteson]

Annealing your cases can help significantly to avoid spilt necks, and keep a consistent bullet release. Brass becomes hard and brittle directly as a result of being fired and subsequently resized again. Anneal first then size the cases. Concentricity is the name of the game.

 

[rsbhunter]

Used the flame method for a couple years....just to many variables every time , flame size, gas pressure, etc....built the one on youtube, induction annealer. Did alot of research on the annealing process...it's not just temperature..... It's time and temperature... There are charts that show what temp is needed to anneal at a given temp/ time . 750° for a fraction of a second doesn't fully anneal.....it is better than nothing, but induction is the way to go...rsbhunter

 

[QuietTexan]

X2 on homemade induction if you're looking for a step-up from torch and socket. Nothing wrong with flame annealing at all, but IMO induction will be more consistent because there's no manual input during the actual annealing. But that's based on the assumption that your brass is consistent - if it's not hand annealing with a torch might be better because you can account for the differences by watching.

 

[rsbhunter]

I'd love to have the AMP set up, but building rifles takes all of my disposable income (is there such a thing?). I can honestly say that induction annealing has helped. My seating consistency has become much more consistent, and my accuracy seems to have improved.....heck, for about the cost of 500 bullets, you can make your brass last longer, and possibly improve your es and sd's.... rsbhunter