How do YOU fire form?

I've fireformed using most of the techniques available, and that includes using, the COW and pistol powder, regularly loaded rounds, proper amount of pistol powder under a cheaper or "seconds" jacketed bullet, cast bullets with pistol powder, etc.
 
So that donut in the neck creates the "shoulder" then the bottom of the donut becomes the top of the shoulder after firing. Pretty cool. Is this method used because you don't have a "crush fit" style chamber arrangement. Like in a 243win chamber that gets cleaned up by a 243ai reamer without setting the barrel back?
Yeah exactly about the donut, it crushes into the front of the chamber. This was a virgin chamber and was built with the correct amount of shoulder crush, but the false shoulder at the front of the chamber makes a tighter fit in front of the shoulder and holds the case back against the bolt face more squarely than crushing along a datum line on the shoulder IMO. Very consistent and repeatable results, very good fireforming loads, good case life.

About the only downside is it takes two operations to neck up then back down again, but I bought a T7 to run multiple dies in at once so it goes pretty fast. If I had a Dillon I'd use it for this.
 
I just find a decent load that's jambed hard and enjoy fire forming, I have had hydo dies and you still fire form after and they just suck to deal with, felt like a waste of money and time. Done piles of COW and that sucks too especially when you realize its blowing that crap into your neck area of your chamber and you have the cleaning with no fun whatsoever while shooting.
Really to me the least waste is a decent shooting fire forming load because I get formed brass and have a fun time doing it, I'll have my kids shoot them too.
 
Yeah exactly about the donut, it crushes into the front of the chamber. This was a virgin chamber and was built with the correct amount of shoulder crush, but the false shoulder at the front of the chamber makes a tighter fit in front of the shoulder and holds the case back against the bolt face more squarely than crushing along a datum line on the shoulder IMO. Very consistent and repeatable results, very good fireforming loads, good case life.

About the only downside is it takes two operations to neck up then back down again, but I bought a T7 to run multiple dies in at once so it goes pretty fast. If I had a Dillon I'd use it for this.
I forgot about the datum line being what touched in the chamber on a crush fit standard cartridge to AI conversion. For whatever reason I was thinking it was the neck shoulder junction.

So your step by step is

Virgin brass
Neck up
Neck turn?
Neck to correct size and form donut
Prime
Powder
Load bullet
Shoot

Do you aneal in the process?
 
I forgot about the datum line being what touched in the chamber on a crush fit standard cartridge to AI conversion. For whatever reason I was thinking it was the neck shoulder junction.

So your step by step is

Virgin brass
Neck up
Neck turn?
Neck to correct size and form donut
Prime
Powder
Load bullet
Shoot

Do you aneal in the process?
Yup.

Neck up to turning size (only because this was a tight necked chamber, less than 0.002" clearance)
Turn
Neck up to a larger size
Bushing size the neck back down
Anneal
Prime, powder, seat, shoot.

A true AI does not shoulder at the datum line but pivots at the neck shoulder junction.
I said "a datum line", not in reference to the headspace comparator datum line size but in reference to an AI crushes at a point on the shoulder of the case based on the diameter of the chamber neck and where along the shoulder that full neck diameter of the chamber is reached, since the the neck has to have radial clearance for expansion. The false shoulder crush is fully in the neck of the chamber, not on the shoulder at all. I can chamber a false shoulder round and see where the neck/shoulder junction is in the chamber based on how much of the false shoulder gets jammed in. It's a visible bright ring around the false shoulder if you remove a case before firing.

This a 243 WIN with a false shoulder in a Sheridan Engineering slotted case gauge that shows where the false shoulder sits in relation to the neck shoulder junction. In an actual sectioned chamber the neck of the chamber would be wider, and sit further down the shoulder than this minimum spec gauge. This case is not inserted all the way by quite a bit because I wasn't going to hammer it in like an action could cam it into the chamber.


IMG_1567.jpg
 
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A true AI does not shoulder at the datum line but pivots at the neck shoulder junction.
This is what I thought but I understand what quietTexan is saying and what you both mean. I'm picking up what you are putting down. The "fulcrum" is in the same place just the "lever handle" is a different shape when comparing the two styles of fire forming.
 
Yup.

Neck up to turning size (only because this was a tight necked chamber, less than 0.002" clearance)
Turn
Neck up to a larger size
Bushing size the neck back down
Anneal
Prime, powder, seat, shoot.


I said "a datum line", not in reference to the headspace comparator datum line size but in reference to an AI crushes at a point on the shoulder of the case based on the diameter of the chamber neck and where along the shoulder that full neck diameter of the chamber is reached, since the the neck has to have radial clearance for expansion. The false shoulder crush is fully in the neck of the chamber, not on the shoulder at all. I can chamber a false shoulder round and see where the neck/shoulder junction is in the chamber based on how much of the false shoulder gets jammed in. It's a visible bright ring around the false shoulder if you remove a case before firing.

This a 243 WIN with a false shoulder in a Sheridan Engineering slotted case gauge that shows where the false shoulder sits in relation to the neck shoulder junction. In an actual sectioned chamber the neck of the chamber would be wider, and sit further down the shoulder than this minimum spec gauge. This case is not inserted all the way by quite a bit because I wasn't going to hammer it in like an action could cam it into the chamber.


View attachment 374428
A picture speaks a thousand words!!! This is what I thought it would look like. Obviously it would be that case in an 243AI case gauge so more gap in the shoulder and a little in the body.
 
I have a 25-06AI build in the works that I will hopefully have finished by deer season. I'm in the process of gathering up all the reloading components and I got to thinking....why would I waste the "good" primers and powder heck even cheap bullets ain't cheap anymore on fire forming?

My chamber will be set up properly where I can shoot factory 25-06 ammo out of it. But I hear that makes short cases that aint gonna grow much especially in an AI. And factory ammo ain't cheap or easy to find. Also this is going to be a 1:7.5tw so I don't know how well a 100gr sst or corelok would hold together to hunt with while fire forming. Also not planning on using Remington or hornady brass. I have 150pcs of lapua 30-06 so far.

I've used the c.o.w. method before but in a 223ai and that was when primer bricks were $35 and that is a much smaller case.

Barrel life is of concern. But I'd rather do something right the first time so if that means fire forming with a bullet then so be it.

Can I load a medium charge of superformance which a have a lot of and a cheapo bullet and a cheapo primer and start there? Would using a cheap primer for fire forming change my primer pockets?

This isn't a 25-06AI specific question. How do yall fire form your improved cases?
DJ's Brass service in Alabama. You can find it on the net. Considerating the cost of components, and barrel wear, IMHO, his service is cost effective.
 
I have a 25-06AI build in the works that I will hopefully have finished by deer season. I'm in the process of gathering up all the reloading components and I got to thinking....why would I waste the "good" primers and powder heck even cheap bullets ain't cheap anymore on fire forming?

My chamber will be set up properly where I can shoot factory 25-06 ammo out of it. But I hear that makes short cases that aint gonna grow much especially in an AI. And factory ammo ain't cheap or easy to find. Also this is going to be a 1:7.5tw so I don't know how well a 100gr sst or corelok would hold together to hunt with while fire forming. Also not planning on using Remington or hornady brass. I have 150pcs of lapua 30-06 so far.

I've used the c.o.w. method before but in a 223ai and that was when primer bricks were $35 and that is a much smaller case.

Barrel life is of concern. But I'd rather do something right the first time so if that means fire forming with a bullet then so be it.

Can I load a medium charge of superformance which a have a lot of and a cheapo bullet and a cheapo primer and start there? Would using a cheap primer for fire forming change my primer pockets?

This isn't a 25-06AI specific question. How do yall fire form your improved cases?
My 22-250 AI method is to simply load the standard case with a standard 22-250 powder charge and have the bullet jammed into the rifling. This has worked well for me and provides a fully formed case and is certainly accurate enough to hunt with.
 
I have a 25-06AI build in the works that I will hopefully have finished by deer season. I'm in the process of gathering up all the reloading components and I got to thinking....why would I waste the "good" primers and powder heck even cheap bullets ain't cheap anymore on fire forming?

My chamber will be set up properly where I can shoot factory 25-06 ammo out of it. But I hear that makes short cases that aint gonna grow much especially in an AI. And factory ammo ain't cheap or easy to find. Also this is going to be a 1:7.5tw so I don't know how well a 100gr sst or corelok would hold together to hunt with while fire forming. Also not planning on using Remington or hornady brass. I have 150pcs of lapua 30-06 so far.

I've used the c.o.w. method before but in a 223ai and that was when primer bricks were $35 and that is a much smaller case.

Barrel life is of concern. But I'd rather do something right the first time so if that means fire forming with a bullet then so be it.

Can I load a medium charge of superformance which a have a lot of and a cheapo bullet and a cheapo primer and start there? Would using a cheap primer for fire forming change my primer pockets?

This isn't a 25-06AI specific question. How do yall fire form your improved cases?
In all the Ackley calibers I've ever owned (a lot)
I always use a cast lead bullet at full load capacity (from reloading manual) and so far it's worked better than anything else I've tried. But if you don't want to use cast bullets in your barrel the cream of wheat is a good opinion to
 
I was wondering if any of powders I have will work other than Bullseye..... I have Alliant blue dot, and Accurate 5744
I use Unique or Herco, 10 grains for 308 size cases, 12 grains for 30-06 and larger, Put over top of powder some cornmeal, malto-meal, cream of wheat or what ever you have on hand. Light a large candle and let it burn away from your loading area. When there is a large amount of melted wax, Pour it into a jar lid about 1/4" thick, When cooled push your loaded case neck into it by holding the lid upside down, This will effectively seal the powder and cornmeal into place. I have experimented with different amounts of powder, You will never get sharp corners of the shoulder, Neck junction or case Shoulder junction unless you actually use cases loaded with the proper amount of rifle powder and a seated bullet that is jammed into the lands. But many of the rounds I am using are barrel burners, SO I prefer not to send bullets down the barrel, And the way things are now, They are hard to get and expensive.
 
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