Scope and hunting ammo for 460 S&W?

Have you tried the scope on a different revolver? What rings and how many are you using? Silly question - are they torqued to spec for all screws? And pushed as far forward as possible in the picatinny slots?

I've had great success with the Leupold 2.5-8 on both a 460 (14") and 500 (10.5").
I originally had the scope far forward but then moved it back since I saw it this way on another site. Had the green dot that I also had on there since I have hopes of possibly having the scope and green dot on there.
 

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I had it this way prior but thought I cracked the lens so returned for another leopold.
 

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I originally had the scope far forward but then moved it back since I saw it this way on another site. Had the green dot that I also had on there since I have hopes of possibly having the scope and green dot on there.

What I meant by pushed forward is when you mount your base, you should push the base as far forward as possible within the actual rail. The front of the lugs of the mount should be contacting the back of the rail slot in front of them. (Hopefully this makes sense. Essentially, where ever on the picatinny you want your base - just make sure you push it forward until it stops within the specific slots, then tighten the base.)

^ Doing this means that when the recoil of the revolvers rocks back that the base / rings will rock with the revolver, rather than the revolver recoiling and slamming back into the rings / base.

Also - maybe it is just me here, but your serial number should be facing down. In the one picture, you're using your windage adjustment as elevation, and elevation as windage.
 
Consider Magna Porting, I had my Freedom Arms model 83 in 454 Casull Magnum Ported and it did wonders for the recoil
Love mine too. Mine was done by a local guy when he waved his magic wand on the internals. Shoots heavy loads with ease and no louder than before. Way more sound comes from the cyl gap on a revolver. My 12yr old daughter shoots it a lot. Feels like half the recoil.
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Thank you. My mount is good and screws are torqued according to the recommendations. Will have someone else shoot it. Thankfully the range masters there I trust to shoot my gun.
One more thing to consider, when I was troubleshooting my Freedom Arms in 454 I was boggles at why my groups were so varied. I would get it zero'd then it would be off. I swapped scopes to no avail but recoil was so bad I thought it was me. Then one day at the range I got it zero'd and set it down on the bench. I came back some time later and fired again and it was off over 2" at 50 yards. I finally realized I was shooting some hot factory Underwood ammo that heated the barrel up and when it cooled back down it was off that much. I do not shoot the Underwood, nay hand loads and I have not seen the issues again.
 
What I meant by pushed forward is when you mount your base, you should push the base as far forward as possible within the actual rail. The front of the lugs of the mount should be contacting the back of the rail slot in front of them. (Hopefully this makes sense. Essentially, where ever on the picatinny you want your base - just make sure you push it forward until it stops within the specific slots, then tighten the base.)

^ Doing this means that when the recoil of the revolvers rocks back that the base / rings will rock with the revolver, rather than the revolver recoiling and slamming back into the rings / base.

Also - maybe it is just me here, but your serial number should be facing down. In the one picture, you're using your windage adjustment as elevation, and elevation as windage.
I think I might have messed that up which would make a lot of sense actually. Also I think my bipod gets loose which came with the gun but might buy a better one or try to lock tite the mount. Thank you.
 
I think I might have messed that up which would make a lot of sense actually. Also I think my bipod gets loose which came with the gun but might buy a better one or try to lock tite the mount. Thank you.
If the mount isn't pressed tight to the rail, then it will allow the mount to move within the rail each shot - so now matter how the rings are torqued, the scope in the mount will all be moving!

I hope this helps you narrow down the problem!
 
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