I think you missed it. This is about strength in a lightweight action.
Titanium
- Thread starter Booney
- Start date
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No I caught it with both hands, and threw one back. I probably threw it in the dirt...sorry. If steel skeletonized or shaved actions were causing such a problem because of the work on them compared to others....I think it would be all over the internet even if true or not. I am just not interested in spending twice as much to save 3-4oz if any at all.
Maybe $300-$400 more for titanium.
Check your math or help me understand what I'm doing wrong- the LP Fusion Ti lists at $1700….the Defiance anTi is $995.
The Pierce steel is $1035.00 Titanium $1335.00.
Stiller Predator $995.00
Anti $995.00
I'm sure my math is right. I do sell all of the above actions.
Stiller Predator $995.00
Anti $995.00
I'm sure my math is right. I do sell all of the above actions.
Cool. Those make sense but OP was asking about the LP Fusion Ti. I have a couple of bourbons in me- apologies if I sounded confrontational. That wasn't my intent just wanted to make sure we were all talking the same actions for comparison.
Felt more like two guy reaching for the last beer. It's all good brother.
lancetkenyon
Well-Known Member
I have two Lone Peak Fuzion Ti SAs. One on a 6CM build, and one was on a 6.5SS build.
I have had zero issues with the 6CM being sticky. And I don't run the 105s lightly.
I had sticky bolt issues with the 6.5SS almost from the start. It got sticky LONG before my Kelbly Atlas Tac in the same chambering would. Now, it could very well be a barrel issue too, like a tight spot. But, I never could get my 26" on the LPA to run hardly any faster than my 20" on the Kelbly. So, after 800ish rounds, I got so frustrated I built a completely new 26" 6.5SS on a Defiance Anti X. It is already shooting faster than my old one could dream of. So my LPA Fuzion is getting rebuilt into a .260AI. Called up LPA, ordered a new standard face bolt, and had it in 4 days.
I have two Defiance AnTi Xs as well. The new 6.5SS as mentioned above, and a new 7SS to match. They both weigh very close to the LPA Fuzion TI, at about $450 cheaper. But, even being Nitrided, the AnTi X is not as smooth as the Deviant line.
Another one to consider, if you can wait for qtr 1 of 22', is the Kelbly Nanook. I am anxiously awaiting that release.
I have had zero issues with the 6CM being sticky. And I don't run the 105s lightly.
I had sticky bolt issues with the 6.5SS almost from the start. It got sticky LONG before my Kelbly Atlas Tac in the same chambering would. Now, it could very well be a barrel issue too, like a tight spot. But, I never could get my 26" on the LPA to run hardly any faster than my 20" on the Kelbly. So, after 800ish rounds, I got so frustrated I built a completely new 26" 6.5SS on a Defiance Anti X. It is already shooting faster than my old one could dream of. So my LPA Fuzion is getting rebuilt into a .260AI. Called up LPA, ordered a new standard face bolt, and had it in 4 days.
I have two Defiance AnTi Xs as well. The new 6.5SS as mentioned above, and a new 7SS to match. They both weigh very close to the LPA Fuzion TI, at about $450 cheaper. But, even being Nitrided, the AnTi X is not as smooth as the Deviant line.
Another one to consider, if you can wait for qtr 1 of 22', is the Kelbly Nanook. I am anxiously awaiting that release.
lancetkenyon
Well-Known Member
If you want to compare LPA Fuzion TI @ $1725, you need to go with the Defiance Anti X @ $1380.Check your math or help me understand what I'm doing wrong- the LP Fusion Ti lists at $1700….the Defiance anTi is $995.
If you want to compare the Defiance AnTi @ $1000, you need to match it with the LPA Razor TI @ $1500.
Alex Wheeler
Well-Known Member
Ti stretches much more than steel under the same load. In my experiance you will see pressure signs sooner in a ti action than a steel action. At least in a magnum bolt face.
I've had a couple of the Fuzion Ti's and built a couple for friends as well. I've never seen stickiness in them in 65 PRC or 65SS. I had stickiness immediately in a Pierce Ti. That was a couple years ago before they made some major changes though.
I had an anTi that weighed .5 oz. less than my Fuzion Ti. I had the anTi nitrided and it was slick and had perfect timing. I had the last Fuzion DLC'd and, boy, was it slick!
I've got two of the Kelbly Nanook's on order and have high expectations owning a couple of the Atlas'.
With the Nanook's advertised weight and the anTi's actual weight being nearly the same as the Fuzion Ti I'd stick with the steel actions for less money and not ever worry about sticky bolts.
I had an anTi that weighed .5 oz. less than my Fuzion Ti. I had the anTi nitrided and it was slick and had perfect timing. I had the last Fuzion DLC'd and, boy, was it slick!
I've got two of the Kelbly Nanook's on order and have high expectations owning a couple of the Atlas'.
With the Nanook's advertised weight and the anTi's actual weight being nearly the same as the Fuzion Ti I'd stick with the steel actions for less money and not ever worry about sticky bolts.
Lasiter
Well-Known Member
Sticky metals: In general, metal-on-metal works best with dissimilar metals.
An example, early all-stainless semi-autos made with 300 series stainless steel. I presume the makers thought non-magnetic and rust-free, but the slides would weld themselves to the receivers.
Another example was metal-on-metal hip replacements. Same problem. My hip replacement uses a Ti ball in a UHMW polyethylene cup, and is still okay after ten years. I'm scheduled for a knee replacement which will use the same materials as the hip replacement.
Obvious exceptions are the millions of all carbon-steel guns that run fine with a little lubrication.
With titanium (or stainless), any stickiness that can't be fixed with a lubricant would be helped by a coating. Titanium nitride is a good, hard, thin coating. GLOCKs are coated with Tenifer, which is both hard and slick. It is similar to nickel boron and Melonite.
Another possibility is electroless nickel, which is slick, and can be applied in different thicknesses. I once improved a 1911 by plating the barrel bushing with .0002 electroless nickel. It provided a slick coating and tightened the bushing-to-barrel fit by .0004.
Suggestion: start by trying different lubricants in the problem area, then different coatings. I would avoid teflon coatings and ceracote because of their thicknesses.
An example, early all-stainless semi-autos made with 300 series stainless steel. I presume the makers thought non-magnetic and rust-free, but the slides would weld themselves to the receivers.
Another example was metal-on-metal hip replacements. Same problem. My hip replacement uses a Ti ball in a UHMW polyethylene cup, and is still okay after ten years. I'm scheduled for a knee replacement which will use the same materials as the hip replacement.
Obvious exceptions are the millions of all carbon-steel guns that run fine with a little lubrication.
With titanium (or stainless), any stickiness that can't be fixed with a lubricant would be helped by a coating. Titanium nitride is a good, hard, thin coating. GLOCKs are coated with Tenifer, which is both hard and slick. It is similar to nickel boron and Melonite.
Another possibility is electroless nickel, which is slick, and can be applied in different thicknesses. I once improved a 1911 by plating the barrel bushing with .0002 electroless nickel. It provided a slick coating and tightened the bushing-to-barrel fit by .0004.
Suggestion: start by trying different lubricants in the problem area, then different coatings. I would avoid teflon coatings and ceracote because of their thicknesses.
cabelasken
Well-Known Member
I have been told this also - by a very competent custom rifle maker. He will not build a custom with a Ti action. Accuracy could be compromised by the action flexing upon firing the round.
