25-06 failure to group

I beat my head against the wall with a rifle doing something similar with a factory barrel. The expensive lesson learned was no matter how many components I wasted the rifle just wouldn't shoot any better. Got rid of the barrel and now it is a half inch gun with hand loads.
That's what I'm currently doing. I would of done it earlier, life just got in the way. And in the long run it could save money with the component shortage. I burned around 500 rounds of bullets, powder, and primers three years ago with my 22-250. Wasn't a big deal back then, hurts more now. In about a month my 260 AI should be ready. Just in time for load work up and the beginning of next year's varmint season.
 
You said you "only bushing size". If that means you only neck size, stop it. You must F/L resize (can still use the bushing). Again , IF that is what you were doing, anneal all, clean after annealing, full length size to.003 under fired length (field gun), and see if that doesn't help.
Good luck. I know how frustrating it is to chase this issue. One of my guns will open up if seating depth is literally off by .002".
 
Bushing dies. Using fed match primers, with the Frankford Arsenal primer seater; does a **** good job with uniformity. Consistent feel with the seating as I recall but will pay closer attention this evening loading the 87's
Bushing dies. Using fed match primers, with the Frankford Arsenal primer seater; does a **** good job with uniformity. Consistent feel with the seating as I recall but will pay closer attention this evening loading
Bushing dies. Using fed match primers, with the Frankford Arsenal primer seater; does a **** good job with uniformity. Consistent feel with the seating as I recall but will pay closer attention this evening loading the 87's
Try regular Fed primers....I had some really screwed up results with match in a 6.5....just something easy and cheap to try! (Not sure what happened to give the three quotes..sorry folks)
 
I like keeping with the KISS principle. It seems that all of the prospective demons have been chased and put aside with the exception of one. Over the years I have found that with issues like this when no other problem can be found it's time to look at the scope or scope mounting system. I have had more than one scope where the reticle moved during recoil. The next shot would of course be off but the recoil would set the reticle back to where it was supposed to be. It has happened more than once and with high quality scopes. Scopes don't last forever. Despite the manufacturers improvements over the years recoil will still take it's toll. Just recently, in the past month a friend of mine had this issue while trying to sight in his match rifle. No two shots would hit in the same place. After eliminating everything else he took the rifle and scope in to the manufacturer who is relatively local and have them check it out. They found the scope defective and replaced it on the spot. Net result was 3/4 MOA groups with factory match ammo while benching at 100 yards.
 
At my wits end with this one, figure I'd try to crowd source solutions.
I have a Rem 700 25-06 Long Range (1:10) that consistently throws fliers 1/4 shots. I pillar bedded the action, floated the forend, installed lighter trigger, tried a KRG chassis, loaded a variety of projectiles 100-120 gr ( have 83,87 on the way to try) nothing I have done has rid this set up of fliers. Trigger and chassis did bring in the groups, but fliers are still consistent at 1/4-1/5 shots.
Got the rifle used with less than 200 down the tube and since have shot another 200 trying to chase this issue in the last 8 months. Scope shows a good bore with minimal throat erosion, seating .015 off lands for most bullets a bit more jump for some others. Have adjusted seating with minimal impact as well.
As it was mentioned; try a flat base bullet, heck you might even try a round nose while you are at it you never know. I think it was Weatherby that originally put round-nose flat base bullets in their .257 Wby Mag in their heaver bullet weight for their .25 many said they shot amazingly good.
Good luck
 
I think we've all fought that demon if we've been shooting long enough. I had a base screw cause me fits even after I checked it. Just so many variables. I can't imagine fighting a rifle that much.
 
There are several things you should look at or try, my first thought is bedding, some rifles are extremely finicky, Meaning everything has to be perfect, I would suggest next time you sit at the bench fire a group as you normally do, then completely remove the rear guard screw, then fire another group, if point of impact changes more than a inch or two you have less than perfect bedding, if you have a perfectly bedded rifle point of impact shouldn't change, I have several rifles I can completely remove barrel and action that poa will not change when reassembled, primers can and will make a big differnce in some rifles, so a simple primer change can correct that at times, my 2506 liked reloader 22 and a cci 200 primer, the testing of magnum primers regardless of manufacturer produced larger groups, when reloader 25 hit the market this powder not only produced higher velocity (100fps) but tighter groups, only this time my best groups came when using the Winchester magnum primer, one lat thing I would try is a different make of brass, I've had two rifles that went from wonderfully accurate to oh crap somethings wrong, another I would try just to see what happens is contacting the lands and see what happens, I've got a ruger number 1 in 257 Ackley that shoots best making 5 to 10 thousandth contact, I'm sure there is a cure for this problem but these days of component shortages and high prices finding a cure could become costly, good luck.
 
I once had an issue with the primer hole - when they punched the hole, a jagged edge was left inside some cases and not in others. an inside the case pocket reamer improved things considerably. Also, I've been told that the sign of a barrel wearing out is to have 1 flyer out of every 4 or 5 shots. Or have a flyer every other group. In my case the flyer increased the group size from 3/4" to 1 1/4". However in your case, there hasn't been that many rounds down that barrel.
 
Seeing as no one has mentioned how long between shots and what is the barrel profile. Seems like it could be heat if it never happens in the first 2 shots. Try shooting 3 shot groups to keep the barrel cooler. If it's in the budget I would say that you might have better luck just getting a new barrel. I have had great luck with international barrels and PVA barrel nut barrels. Both being sub 1/4 moa with a variety of bullets.
 
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