Hondo64d
Well-Known Member
^^^^
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Advice on Long Range Scope Zero
- Thread starter Josebigsky
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nealm66
Well-Known Member
Wow, lol. I zero @ 200 and it helps a bit when you use the reticle like your planning. I shoot a lot and when I'm with someone who hasn't, I've noticed it's hard for them to judge holdovers and with a 200 zero and a fairly flat shooting rifle it helps a bit. If you have a spot where you can set up some random targets out to 5-600 yards you will probably see what I mean.
I don't disagree with that. My point is directly related to the equipment you have and it's limitations. If you don't have a scaled reticle, and target turrets that enable you to quickly dial to a specify range for a POA/POI hit without having to remove a cap, and pull a penny out of your pocket, to do it then yes the zeroing to the midrange of your MPBR is typically how that's done.
Ckleeves
Well-Known Member
If you have exposed turrets then there is not a single logical reason to zero at any range other then 100. Not one. Change my mind.
Ucsdryder
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Would it be accurate to say the holdover crowd tends to like a 200+ zero and the dial crowd likes a 100? I know you can do either with both options but that's what the comments suggest.
No! I zero at 200Y and do holdover and dial as required.
yobuck
Well-Known Member
Regardless, zero only represents a place to return to after you have been using the dial for shooting at longer distances.
100 yards has been the standard, no doubt due to 100 yd ranges being more common and easier to find.
As for using a reticle, very good results can be achieved using that method.
Just make sure you know your reticle very well, so that there is no confusion when the time comes.
In other words shoot the gun till you become proficient using the reticle without much thought being given.
The farther the bullet travels from your muzzle the more environmental plays into the true zero of your rifle. That's reason #1 why we zero @ 100
If I you want wind, DA, etc for a specific location etc figured into the true zero of your rifle then go ahead and zero at 200. Hell, zero at 1000yd and hold under for everything. Just don't forget to compensate for everything else you included in your zero. Good luck
If I you want wind, DA, etc for a specific location etc figured into the true zero of your rifle then go ahead and zero at 200. Hell, zero at 1000yd and hold under for everything. Just don't forget to compensate for everything else you included in your zero. Good luck
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couesaddict
Well-Known Member
I've got a zeiss v4 on my 25sst that's a little over a year old and it's solid as far as tracking. And I bought it as a demo from redhawk's. Hadn't heard anything bad on them myself and I have no complaints other than not being able to dial wind but they were upfront about that.
couesaddict
Well-Known Member
And I zero everything 1" high at 100yds personally. Been doing it for a long time now with MOA reticles because that's how I've managed to program my brain for the quick 4-500yd shots when you're in a hurry and need to hold over. All of my hunting rifles are in the kill zone with the same hold over to that distance if need be. If it's a relaxed situation I dial with 1" high at 100 in the app. I think it's just what you're comfortable with really. Doesn't matter.
yobuck
Well-Known Member
It would take lots of typing on your part in order for my old mind to grasp what your attempting to say.The farther the bullet travels from your muzzle the more environmental plays into the true zero of your rifle. That's reason #1 why we zero @ 100
If I you want wind, DA, etc for a specific location etc figured into the true zero of your rifle then go ahead and zero at 200. Hell, zero at 1000yd and hold under for everything. Just don't forget to compensate for everything else you included in your zero. Good luck
And there would be no guarantee id agree anyway, so dont bother. lol
