Advice on Long Range Scope Zero

I zero everything at 100 yards. Even my 1000yd 300 wsm 60 power topped March rig. Generally 100 yards is where most load development is done and there is less atmospheric hampering at a hundred yards vs 200 or 300 yards. Granted you have a hunting rig rather than a bench rig but I still zero at 100
 
So, here is some food for thought.. I drank the KoolAid and did a 200 yard zero for all the reasons mentioned above.. and I am sure 9-10 times it works... The one time it doesn't is when a buck of a lifetime is on a steep down hill incline and you shoot over his back 3 times wondering what the hec? We all understand the trajectory of bullets and how up and downhill work.. One thing I will never do again is a 200 yard zero for my hunting conditions.. 200 zero makes you shoot that much higher when shooting down hill and likely hood of a miss is much more.. As mentioned above, zero for the conditions you will hunt. If you peek over a rim and see a buck at 150 and you are zeroed at 200 there is a good chance you will shoot right over the top of it.. 100 yard zero you will just spine shoot it and down she goes... As for me and mine we will be zeroing at 100 as always. If all you will hunt is Antelope then a 2-3 hundred yard zero is fine.. Always consider you conditions.. I can always dial a little more but when you are zeroed at 300.. Good luck shooting down hill..
 
So, here is some food for thought.. I drank the KoolAid and did a 200 yard zero for all the reasons mentioned above.. and I am sure 9-10 times it works... The one time it doesn't is when a buck of a lifetime is on a steep down hill incline and you shoot over his back 3 times wondering what the hec? We all understand the trajectory of bullets and how up and downhill work.. One thing I will never do again is a 200 yard zero for my hunting conditions.. 200 zero makes you shoot that much higher when shooting down hill and likely hood of a miss is much more.. As mentioned above, zero for the conditions you will hunt. If you peek over a rim and see a buck at 150 and you are zeroed at 200 there is a good chance you will shoot right over the top of it.. 100 yard zero you will just spine shoot it and down she goes... As for me and mine we will be zeroing at 100 as always. If all you will hunt is Antelope then a 2-3 hundred yard zero is fine.. Always consider you conditions.. I can always dial a little more but when you are zeroed at 300.. Good luck shooting down hill..
Wait a sec
A 200 yard zero with most modern cartridges is only going to be 1" high at 150.
You missed 8" vitals multiple times.
Maybe try aiming for the vitals and not "spine shoot it and down she goes"
If you practiced shooting at that angle you also probably would not have had an issue come game time.
 
What's the advantage of a 200-300 yard zero over a 100 yard zero and then having your turret dialed to 200 or 300 yards?
 
Hi all,

I am having a 28 Nosler built and will be putting a Leupold 4-24 Vx6 on it with an Impact 23 MOA Reticle. This is the first long-range rifle I have owned. I live in Montana. I built this rifle to hunt elk and mule deer. I plan on using the reticle when I need to make a quick shot. I plan on dialing when the game presents this type of opportunity. I would likely limit my shooting to 600-700 yards until I build proficiency with the rifle. Here is what I would like advice on:
  1. For hunting is it best to zero the scope in at 100? OR
  2. Calculate maximum point blank range and zero for that distance? OR
  3. Is there another way I haven't thought about?
Thanks for your help.

Zero @ 100 yds

regardless whether or not youre planning on MPBR, zero @ 100.

once your rifle is zeroed at 100, run the ballistics and then just dial to your mid range elev for your MPBR.

The only need I see for someone to zero at 200, 225, etc is if they have non target turret scope that is not meant for dialing of elevation.
 
I am the same as most on here with the MPBR with a 4-6" max vertical spread but I set my NF zero stops about 5 clicks past the "0". From there I'll go ahead and adjust for the MPBR range. I like those because my scope is zeroed to 100yd for a hard reference and I have the 300yd and under covered for the quick shots. I have been known to wing it for shots slightly past my MPBR. Those long range shots typically have a little more time available.
 
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