I bought 3 mauser actions at an estate sale. I found a good deal on a short chambered 308 barrel with the intention of doing it myself. After all, Larry Potterfield made it look so easy. I know some mausers actions require an extractor cut. Is there an easy way to determine this by looking at the action? Will the extracter protrude past where the barrel and receiver mate?
Mauser extractor cut
- Thread starter JimFromTN
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Not many mausers had the enclosed cartridge head, I think it was the Yugo M48.
I don't think there's any reason you couldn't just spin on the flat-breech prefit- but I've never worked on the Yugo so I can't say with absolute certainty if there's something I'm missing about it.
Sorta like the M700... the enclosed "ring of steel" boltface is a valid safety feature- but there's no reason one can't chamber a barrel for it without the breech counterbore. After all, that's how most other centerfires are done.
I don't think there's any reason you couldn't just spin on the flat-breech prefit- but I've never worked on the Yugo so I can't say with absolute certainty if there's something I'm missing about it.
Sorta like the M700... the enclosed "ring of steel" boltface is a valid safety feature- but there's no reason one can't chamber a barrel for it without the breech counterbore. After all, that's how most other centerfires are done.
I've played with several 98's and a 96 and never had to make an extractor cut. Just simple flat faced breech.
Important to know what you have before rebarreling, both to make sure you don't have an older model that can't safely handle pressures of some modern chamberings (like the .308) , and that the prefit, will fit... 1.100 x .625 tenon is standard AFAIK.
All 3 are large ring mausers. All 3 are different with different stamps. I think one is an egyptian which is missing the extractor off of the bolt. One is stamped 98k. The barrel fits all 3. All 3 have bent bolts which will still probably need to be bent more to work around a scope.
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
Those 'factory arched' bolt handles are best cut off and a 'sporter' handle welded on, as the 'arched' don't lend themselves to being 'sporterized'. You should be able to see if the extractor goes past the "C" ring in the receiver when the bolt is inserted . Just look in from the front/thread end. I have never seen a Mauser '98 that requires an "extractor cut", and I've been working with Mausers for 30+ yrs.
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Fitting the barrel and changing bolt handles on M98 Mausers is made to look easy by those that sell the components. If you don't have experience or someone to physically guide you through changing the bolt handle, find an experienced smith for that operation. Save you frustration and maybe money.
I would prefer Tig welding to reattach the bolt handle instead of heating and bending. Heat is easier controlled with Tig welding.
Hard rock
Well-Known Member
Been around mausers and sporterized 93 95 96s and small and large ring mexican and german mausers no extractor cut American 1903 Springfields yes
Hard rock
Well-Known Member
And all variations of 98 mausers
Rflshootr
Well-Known Member
Another thing to think about.....have any of the actions been drilled and tapped for a scope base?
No
Rflshootr
Well-Known Member
Well if you want a scope, you either have to be able to drill and tap your self (money for a drill jig & drill press), have a mill and the know-how to do it, or take it to someone that can do it. Just saying.
The very first rifle that I built was a standard 284 Win on a Turkish Mauser large ring action with small ring threads. By the time I got done drilling and tapping, having a new bolt handle welded on, buying a new stock and barrel, buying a reamer and head space gauges, replacing the firing pin, safety and trigger and doing all the bedding work, opening the feed rails for the fatter cartridge, I could have bought a 700 and been done.....again, just saying.
From my point of view, I would recommend selling what you have and buying a rifle....but that's just me.
The very first rifle that I built was a standard 284 Win on a Turkish Mauser large ring action with small ring threads. By the time I got done drilling and tapping, having a new bolt handle welded on, buying a new stock and barrel, buying a reamer and head space gauges, replacing the firing pin, safety and trigger and doing all the bedding work, opening the feed rails for the fatter cartridge, I could have bought a 700 and been done.....again, just saying.
From my point of view, I would recommend selling what you have and buying a rifle....but that's just me.
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I am wanting to do as much of the work as possible. Its more for the experience of doing it myself than anything else. I do have a jig and a mill/drill.
Nothin' wrong with that, many of us have done the same for the same reason.
