Recoil management-poor shooting

One overlooked aspect of recoil management is proper bench posture technique which can significantly reduce felt recoil. There are a lot of really good bench shooting tutorials that include proper bench setup for accuracy as well as recoil management which is part if accuracy. Some good youtube bench tutorials that may help.
 
Thank you for all the replies. Just to go a little more into the weeds. I am in my mid-40s very athletically built, and again I have no problem shooting my 375. My problem is that I cannot shoot the 300 WSM worth a pinch of coons&*t because somehow I fail to control the recoil in any consistent fashion. Today I wasn't very smart and did all my shooting in a T-shirt and that certainly didn't help... I have a past recoil shield shoulder pad (which I forgot to bring along) which takes the sting out of the gun but the recoil is still not controlled and I'm shooting all over the target. If I transition to my tikka T3X 6.5 creedmoor I can print three-quarter inch groups right after I put this gun down. I know many can do better but I would be very pleased if I could milk out the same performance from the 300 WSM... I understand that shooting lighter weight bullets would decrease the recoil but unfortunately I cannot reload and over-the-counter selection of lighter weight bullets is fairly limited.
I think my problem is my inability to consistently manage recoil and thus shoot the gun accurately. I'm thinking about a muzzle brake or a silencer, leaning towards the silencer because I'm afraid of not being able to put an ear protection and damaging my hearing shooting a braked gun in a hunting situation without ear pro. I'm also not sure if somebody can thread a 5/8 inch diameter muzzle to receive a break or a suppressor. Could anyone weigh in on this possibility?
Again I appreciate everyone's insight so far!
( I may also have to consider taking some lessons how to shoot lightweight heavy recoiling rifles well...)
Could be that you just don't know how to shoot a heavy recoiling light rifle. The excessive muzzle jump can wreak havoc with your groups. Are you holding the front of the rifle down or doing the "long range" thing where you keep your non trigger hand on the rear beanie bag? Lots of times it's good to hold the front of the rifle on light rife. Even the slant of the butt plate can make a difference on a light magnum rifle. Ever notice the slant angle on a big Weatherby? The butt angle is heavily angled so that the rife jumps at the muzzle under recoil instead of driving the scope into your face...
 
Recoil pad and muzzle brake it.
YUP,.. The OP has, TWO Choices,.. ^^^ THIS,.. or, SELL IT and get, a lighter Recoiling round that, shoots no more than, 150-168 grain bullets at 3,100 FPS or, LESS !
Put, a Limbsaver recoil Pad on even, the Lighter kicking, Tikka Rifles SEE,.. Post # 28
SEE,.. Below listed, Cartridges,..
IF, you want a Light, 7.5 Pound, Mountain Rifle that, can be shot WELL, without,.. a Brake,..
BUY, a Tikka T-3, in,.. 7mm-08, 7mmRM, .270 WSM, 6.5 PRC, .30-06, etc. and stay under,.. 168 grain Bullets.
With, the PROPER Bullet, they will all, Kill Elk to 5- 600+ yards and NOT,.. your, Shoulder !
The Gun Racks are full of, .300 Win Mag's, WSM's and .338's, in most Gun Shops for, a REASON !
I'm 74 and shoot, a Tikka T-3, @ 7.7 pounds "all up" with, 140 Berger Classic Hunters at, 3,185 FPS into, Sub 1/2, MOA groups.
This load, is still going, OVER,.. 2,000 FPS at, 800 Yards !
 
Last edited:
as for the 1/2-28 thread is concerned, it is not the customary thread for brakes and suppressors, am I correct?
Again, this depends on the muzzle diameter of your rifle. It helps the gunsmith determine the best and safe thread for your muzzle brake. Below have 1/2-28 self-timing brakes ...

https://muzzlebrakesandmore.com/beast-2-piece-brakes

https://patriotvalleyarms.com/muzzle-brakes/

https://www.americanprecisionarms.com/collections/muzzle-brakes

https://www.insitearms.com/product-category/muzzle-brakes/

Below is my .30 Gibbs with .625" OD at the muzzle with 1/2-28" threaded Ross Schuler 4-port brake. Currently shoots 190 Berger VLD at 2806 FPS.

.30 Gibbs scoped 1 of .jpg

.30 GIBBS weight.jpg

.30 Gibbs with Ross Schuler 4-port brake 3 of 3.jpg
 
Have the barrel threaded and install a self timing brake. Use the brake with good hearing protection when shooting at targets and then remove it for hunting. This type of brake is easy to install and remove. You can get a thread protector so you don't ding the threads
 
Bought a 340 WBY when I was 20,put 400 rnds threw it that first season.Shot everything with it,used for 35 years.My son took it over as a small teenager,has a light stock,8.5#s.Unbraked the first ten years.Now I shoot a 7-2oz 338NM.Seen many that have no problem shooting mags.Like nocking elk over,was canyon shooting them 35 years ago
 
And,. NEVER, ever, FORGET to Put, your Ear Plugs IN,.. before shooting at, an animal !
I HAVE, Tinnitus from, a Fireworks Explosion near my left Ear as, a Kid,..
And you,.. DON'T,.. want,. IT !
Your Ears, NEVER,.. STOP,.. Ringing !!!
 
Last edited:
Have the barrel threaded and install a self timing brake. Use the brake with good hearing protection when shooting at targets and then remove it for hunting. This type of brake is easy to install and remove. You can get a thread protector so you don't ding the threads
This might affect your POI due to a change in barrel harmonics.
 
Have the barrel threaded and install a self timing brake. Use the brake with good hearing protection when shooting at targets and then remove it for hunting. This type of brake is easy to install and remove. You can get a thread protector so you don't ding the threads
The Rifles, POI will be,.. TOAST !
I have Brakes on, a 6 XC and .22-250 Rem and BOTH Rifles, Changed POI a couple of INCHES at 100 Yards, when, the Brakes were,.. added !
I use them, to shoot Varmints off, a Bench and ALWAYS put Muff's or, Plugs on !
 
Last edited:
As stated by others,a Limbsaver pad helps a lot.My 300WSM for the most part isn't that bad,but some powders do seem to make the recoil a lot worse.One powder that gave me the most felt recoil was Magpro.I didn't feel the recoil as much on my shoulder as I did on my cheek.A few of those rounds might loosen your teeth a bit,it wasn't pleasant to shoot at all and I was a few grains shy of book max load.Faster powders on the burnrate scale around the 4350's range,will keep you around mid 60gr range for bullets up to 180grs and the recoil really isn't too bad,about like a 30-06 or a 7mag.The 300WSM recoil tends to feel a little less than from my 300 Win Mags and I tolerate them fine.A lighter trigger around 2.5-2.75lbs can help your groups.Even if you flinch just a little,you should be able to maintain decent groups.Work on the simple changes first,sometimes changing to a different stock can make it feel totally different too.Good Luck to you.A rifle that hurts you is no fun to shoot and can make you become a lousy shooter.
 
You can learn to shoot it.My shooting coach in highschool ,later in life lost eyesite in right eye.He was a gun nut and smith.He got a 460 wby and taught himself to shoot left handed.I asked why such large rifle,''Then I can shoot anything" Also had friend I shot archery league and bowhunted with,lost right eye to fish hook halibut fishing,became a top 3D,and 300 shooter,left handed,gave me alot of shooting tips archery along with Steve Davis
 
Not sure if this was mentioned but try experimenting with a light to firm hold down on the front of the stock, use a 2 piece rest that allows the rifle to slide. Try different spots where the rifle rests in the front and make sure the recoil doesn't come to an abrupt end on the back bag. If I'm doing load work on heavy recoil rifle, I place a stocking hat over my shoulder. This allows the rifle to find its place against my shoulder shot to shot. Notice where the rifle ends up after the shot. You will start noticing a pattern and know when you pulled a shot before you look. Hope this helps
 
Top