Hi everyone, I need some help. I own among many other rifles of sako finnlight in 300 WSM. For the life of me I cannot sight it in anything better than a 3 inch group... Unfortunately, I have to admit this is due to my inability off managing the recoil and shooting it without a flinch. The gun is about 7 1/2 pound scoped and it beats me up bad. I also own a 9 pound 375H&H and I can shoot that one with no problem... This little WSM however just beats me. I'm planning to take this rifle for a mountain hunt this summer and I am wondering what should I do to properly sight it in? Would you have it threaded and use a muzzlebreak or a can? The problem is I detest muzzle breaks and a can make the gun rather unwieldy. Would you think sighting it in in a lead sled like device would be reasonable? I can shoot it for a couple rounds without the sled but then the wheels come off as it starts to beat me up, therefore I am unable to even sight it in right now.... Anyways, any suggestions are welcome and if you think it is best to thread it where would you have it done? I live in by the twin cities in MN.
Recoil management-poor shooting
- Thread starter Ftothfadd
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corsair4360
Well-Known Member
I would suggest putting lead or similar heavy weight as part of the stock to make the rifle "heavier" assuming that is the direction you desire to go. If you do not want the rifle heavier then shoot it more with weight (aka "ballast") and bags until you master it and then start working on less "ballast". Sounds like the 300 WSM needs some attention so you can "master" it. I shoot a 270 WSM, sure it kicks but I have been able to group around an inch.
Idaho Lefty
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IF, you want a Light, 7.5 Pound, Mountain Rifle that, can be shot WELL, without,.. a Brake,..
BUY, a Tikka T-3, in,.. 7mm-08, 7mmRM, .270 WSM, 6.5 PRC, .30-06, etc. and stay under,.. 168 grain Bullets.
With, the PROPER Bullet, they will all, Kill Elk to 5- 600+ yards and NOT,.. your, Shoulder !
The Gun Racks are full of, .300 Win Mag's, WSM's and .338's, in most Gun Shops for, a REASON !
I'm 74 and shoot, a Tikka T-3, @ 7.7 pounds "all up" with, 140 Berger Classic Hunters at, 3,185 FPS into, Sub 1/2, MOA groups.
This load, is still going, OVER,.. 2,000 FPS at, 800 Yards !
BUY, a Tikka T-3, in,.. 7mm-08, 7mmRM, .270 WSM, 6.5 PRC, .30-06, etc. and stay under,.. 168 grain Bullets.
With, the PROPER Bullet, they will all, Kill Elk to 5- 600+ yards and NOT,.. your, Shoulder !
The Gun Racks are full of, .300 Win Mag's, WSM's and .338's, in most Gun Shops for, a REASON !
I'm 74 and shoot, a Tikka T-3, @ 7.7 pounds "all up" with, 140 Berger Classic Hunters at, 3,185 FPS into, Sub 1/2, MOA groups.
This load, is still going, OVER,.. 2,000 FPS at, 800 Yards !
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Sealesniper
Well-Known Member
Depending on what brake you install, your felt recoil will be greatly reduced. Another often overlooked part of accuracy is the trigger. You want a trigger that is light but without creep. I shoot 14 oz triggers on my hunting guns that are used in a box stand and 1-1.2 pound for carry guns. (I don't carry any of them loaded in the chamber).
Adding weight to the stock can really help with recoil, but that defeats the intents of a light carry gun.
Your next option is to load a lighter bullet and lighter charge to match the conditions you plan to hunt/shoot. You don't need a 210 gr pill travelling at 3000 fps second to kill an elk at under 500 yards. Accuracy and shot placement supersede speed and bullet mass EVERY time. Work on some loads with 150 to 165 gr accubonds or similar weight bullet. You will require less powder to propel the bullet which equals less recoil (every action has equal and opposite reaction). If you are not able to load down and you can't handle the recoil, drop back and punt. Get a lighter/smaller caliber. I have a buddy that has killed elk with the 130 gr scirroco's in his 260 out past 600 yards. Very light recoil, flat shooting and deadly. You don't need to hunt with a gun that destroys on one end and maims on the other.
Adding weight to the stock can really help with recoil, but that defeats the intents of a light carry gun.
Your next option is to load a lighter bullet and lighter charge to match the conditions you plan to hunt/shoot. You don't need a 210 gr pill travelling at 3000 fps second to kill an elk at under 500 yards. Accuracy and shot placement supersede speed and bullet mass EVERY time. Work on some loads with 150 to 165 gr accubonds or similar weight bullet. You will require less powder to propel the bullet which equals less recoil (every action has equal and opposite reaction). If you are not able to load down and you can't handle the recoil, drop back and punt. Get a lighter/smaller caliber. I have a buddy that has killed elk with the 130 gr scirroco's in his 260 out past 600 yards. Very light recoil, flat shooting and deadly. You don't need to hunt with a gun that destroys on one end and maims on the other.
Muddyboots
Well-Known Member
Easiest recoil reduction on the 300WSM is drop down in bullet weight. Maybe try the 162AH or even 152 HH. Or 168 ABLR. Dropping bullet weight will help it a lot. All will kill up to elk easily.
Use loads that use less powder to achieve velocities you need for above bullets.
Nothing kills scopes, base screws, rings faster than lead sled. Manage the recoil in rifle thru bullet weight and even consider dropping loads down. Animals don't measure bullet velocity that kills them. You really don't loose that much in performance for mid range work.
Use loads that use less powder to achieve velocities you need for above bullets.
Nothing kills scopes, base screws, rings faster than lead sled. Manage the recoil in rifle thru bullet weight and even consider dropping loads down. Animals don't measure bullet velocity that kills them. You really don't loose that much in performance for mid range work.
Muddyboots
Well-Known Member
Also, I loaded a 150 Prohunter for a friend that was slight build shooting a Savage 300WSM. He was hunting with me and it was painful to watch him shoot 180's factory. He didn't shoot farther than 300 yards so it had plenty of energy at 300 plus shot really well.
Idaho Lefty
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YUP,.. THIS ^^^ Might try, Hand loading some, 150 or 165 grain Ballistic Tips at,.. .30-06 Velocities !
And, shorten up, your Max Kill, distances !
YOU NEED MORE RECOIL PAD!!!!! Get a cushy LimbSaver Slip-On Recoil Pad. It will take a lot of the recoil out, so you can site the rile in. It will add a little bit to the length of pull though. Then you can decide to leave it on for the hunt or not. I would stay away from a lead sled or similar. the Limbsaver pad is a lot more cost effective too.
I shoot a lot of 300 WSM in a lighter rifle. So, i know where your coming from.
I shoot a lot of 300 WSM in a lighter rifle. So, i know where your coming from.
Amazon.com : LimbSaver Classic Slip-On Recoil Pad - Small, Medium or Large : Sports & Outdoors
Amazon.com : LimbSaver Classic Slip-On Recoil Pad - Small, Medium or Large : Sports & Outdoors
www.amazon.com
What exactly do you not like about muzzle brakes? Noise? Concussion/muzzle blast, etc. Have you tried any? Which type or brand? Not all Muzzle brakes are created equal. If you have it threaded for 5/8-24" I have a few muzzle brakes I can send you to try if you want. An effective muzzle brake serves two purposes; it reduces felt recoil and reduces muzzle rise. The latter is often overlooked. Muzzle brakes are the most effective in recoil reduction and muzzle rise; better than suppressors. So yes, "I" would thread it for a muzzle device.
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I have the original lead sled and still use them today, esp. during barrel break-in. I can transition from shots to barrel cleaning and back to shooting with ease. People ran into a problem with improper usage when they use an excessive amount of weight and try to eliminate recoil. The weakest point, as you noted above, will suffer. I do not use any weight on mine and have not done any damage to any of my rifles, and I have used it for many years since its inception.
Rick Richard
Well-Known Member
I feel the same about the lead sled in that if you don't load it down with weight it will not adversely effect the firearm are it's POI. With that said, I do attempt to shoot mimicking field conditions while hunting.
