I glue everything. I use white school glue. It has worked great for me for years. It holds, it can be broken loose easily & it cleans up with water. What works works!
Blue thread loctite on scope rings or not
- Thread starter Brownsfan
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
D
Deleted member 107796
Guest
And galls terribly when you thread a steel screw into it.
Not that much heat. The Kinetic Shock method you suggested works good also.
memtb
Well-Known Member
I see fingernail polish mentioned fairly often.....that's what I use to seal primers on hunting or defense loads. But, that would be a different topic on a different day! 
memtb
memtb
AllenRay
Well-Known Member
I put that stuff on everything.
AllenRay
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the fingernail polish. I'm new and been wondering about that.I see fingernail polish mentioned fairly often.....that's what I use to seal primers on hunting or defense loads. But, that would be a different topic on a different day!
xsn10s
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2016
- Messages
- 7,301
Oh ButterBean I win and got the base off. I used heat from a soldering iron but I believe impact was what broke it free. I drove a torx bit into the stripped head. Well I found a bed of red loctite lol. The front screw wasn't even tight lol. I would of used more heat but I think the picatinny rail was acting like a big heat sink, I never got the smell of loctite getting heated up.
Good Deal
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
I was taught 30 years ago blue on base screws, NOTHING on ring screws. We only installed Burris bases and rings back then. Never had one come back or receive a complaint.
These days I like the capillary action lock-tite versions for small to tiny screws. Tighten dry screws to spec, then apply the lock-tite.
EDIT: I still wouldn't put any on the ring screws.
If all that you've got is a flame to heat with, heat a piece of copper (if possible) or stainless steel and use that to apply the heat to the screw. Then I like a sharp rap with a punch set in the bottom of the screw's socket.
These days I like the capillary action lock-tite versions for small to tiny screws. Tighten dry screws to spec, then apply the lock-tite.
EDIT: I still wouldn't put any on the ring screws.
If all that you've got is a flame to heat with, heat a piece of copper (if possible) or stainless steel and use that to apply the heat to the screw. Then I like a sharp rap with a punch set in the bottom of the screw's socket.
Last edited:
xsn10s
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2016
- Messages
- 7,301
Whatever you do don't do this lol. I'm not sure what the guy was thinking when he did this. It may explain why I never did smell any loctite releasing. The picatinny rail might have been acting as a big heat sink and the layer of loctite between the rail and action was an insulator. The front screw wasn't even close to bottoming out.
Attachments
![20210503_184459[1].jpg](https://r2d2.www.longrangehunting.com/attachments/263/263272-c85f20284eee827bd09d98a4cd1f98dc.jpg)
![20210503_184454[1].jpg](https://r2d2.www.longrangehunting.com/attachments/263/263276-106ee3a216cfa62ee864496783692650.jpg)
That's just plain ignorance
xsn10s
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2016
- Messages
- 7,301
I'll have to look into this. It might be the reason why I lost 20 MOA of elevation adjustment. The base might be poorly formed to the receiver which would explain the loctite "bedding" job. In any case this isn't the first time I've seen this done. So it's a heads up for people who purchase firearms with optics mounted.
entropicitis
Well-Known Member
I'd suggest marking with a bit of white paint first to see if your screws even have a propensity to loosen before going in with loctite.
