New build does not shoot. Need some help.

I don't think I'd be too worried just yet. You shot 3 different kinds of factory ammo in two different weights and these were the first 30 or so rounds fired. Lots of barrels take about 100 rounds before their speed starts to stabalize which impacts harmonics. I would probably shoot some more rounds before making an accuracy judgement. Target #6 a good 3 shot group may be as much of a fluke as your biggest group at this stage. If you are concerned about bedding after you get further along in break in you can test it using one of the tried and true methods of measuring the forend movement you could also experiment with a few groups shot with and without your box for comparison.
 
nothing changed
Isn't group 6 a one hole 3 shot group? And group 7 looks like it's about a 1" group?
By no measure am I an elite shooter, but I have ran into my fair share of issues over the last 35yrs of shooting. So I thought I would weigh in.
It could be one specific culprit, but likely a combination of two or more of the issues being mentioned.
Factory ammo isn't going to give u the variable consistency with the load....but if that's all you have I would back up, regroup and try another day with the ammo that was closest to steady....which looks to be the Winchester. Hopefully, access to hand loads will become easier soon.
My last rifle, a 280ai w/ Bartlein 1/8.7T (yes that's right 8.7...I had to confirm several times), was a little erratic at first. I was hoping to shoot 140s, mainly for Deer, and ran a box of factory Nosler 140s through it to break it in. It had me shaking my head....I even had my friend, who shot on Team USA F class for 7-8yrs, shoot a couple groups and his were worse than mine. He suggested a heavier bullet and hand loaded some 168s VLDs. Instantly we were inside 1moa. Then found a charge that got us right it .4 and called it a day.
Over the next couple of sessions that .4 has shrunk and I can honestly say it's a .25-.3 rifle.
Ive found that once i shoot a group that isn't the greatest, I tend to press a little and rush through things. It doesn't take much to turn a half inch group into a 1.5". And with a new rifle that you aren't familiar with.
Lastly, I've had scope issues cause problems....once I had a scope that "in a bind" because of unequal screw torque......Re mounted it and problem went away.
I know the feeling you're having and you just want an answer and the issue fixed. Good luck.
 
Be sure to keep everyone posted when you solve the issue. I have had several rifles that will not shot sub moa until about 200 rounds then they just tightens up.
 
nothing changed
Something changed. I think there is value in figuring that out.

shooter, rest, natural point of aim, scope, runout...something

I'm not sure what I'd the issue, but I would pick a box of factory ammo and sort out the 3 lowest runout. Should be under 0.008" near the bullet tip. That should shoot pretty well. If not, I would spend more time on the shooter/rest.
 
The ones you shot after first cleaning, shots 1-4 with the SST, shows two distinct groups. That is usually the cause from another "recoil lug", which is the gremlin you must chase down. After you removed the box mag components it improved. So I would dive back into finding where it exists. Even take-down screws touching the holes in which the screws occupy, are suspect. Maybe your Smith should take this activity as a warranty, but I think you can find it.
 
Well I had put together my first "custom" rifle together. It seems to shoot really inconsistently.

300WM .050 FB 3.6 Match chamber 3B contour, Defiance anti, Mesa Precision altitude stock, Hawkins BDL, Wyatt MBE-3, Tigger tech.

Action screws 65in lbs
Scope 20 in lbs and 45 in lbs to picatinny Checked twice and re installed.

The "break in"

Remove oil from barrel then shoot
Shoot 2 clean copper and carbon, bore scope to make sure. used 150GR reduced recoil
Shoot 4 clean copper and carbon, bore scope to make sure.

Ammo used

180SST superformance
180Gr Winchester super X
200Gr Hornady ELD-X

Shot off a bipod and bag

Weather semi calm wind 3-4mph L to R 40* in the AM to 60* by noon

Confirmation took my 6.5CM and shot a sub 1/2moa group

Barrel temps low

Findings:

Before shooting trigger was touching BDL made clearance

BDL and wyatt mag box was rubbing BDL removed then shot the second to final group of a one hole with Winchester super X let cool and shot the final group of the day with Winchester Super X
Often times from and rear action screws are set at two different torques! I would look there first...check with action manufacturer....makes exactly the difference you are showing in many cases!....just me
 
In my case that I mentioned earlier the bottom metal was putting unequal pressure on the bottom of the pillars. We removed some material from the pillars and then bedded the bottom metal which resulted in uniform and even pressured torque to the receiver. I now bed all my bottom metals.
 
If you can find it, try the Barnes 180 TTSX if you're going the factory route. I hesitate to post because I know that sounds too simplistic but I've seen it work in 300wms as recommended by gunsmiths when nothing else will. Nice build and good luck.
 
Not that it is an issue with your accuracy problem, but I'm thinking .05 FB sounds pretty short. I'm trying to remember the last one I did......IIRC .09 freebore put the bottom of the bearing surface of a 165 boat tail bullet at the neck/shoulder junction with the ogive touching the lands. And of course, heavier bullets would be down in the case further.
 
I've never really understood the theory as to action screw torque affecting accuracy, assuming the receiver is correctly, stress free pillar bedded.

This is how we check for a correct bedding job, placing an indicator on the barrel and tightening/loosening action screws. If the receiver moves, it's not bedded correctly.

Shouldn't matter if it's 40 in/lbs or 60- no way the receiver could know the difference unless it's being "bent" due to improper (or lack of) bedding job.

Different on a factory, or otherwise un-bedded stock or even many chassis systems. The fitment is not precise, and torque will affect how the receiver is stressed and will shoot.
 
I sent it back to the builder who bedded it originally. My guess is the stocks bottom metal cutout was uneven and either action or bottom metal where to far forward or rearward causing blind mag issues and the action screws to not come down straight.
 
Well I had put together my first "custom" rifle together. It seems to shoot really inconsistently.

300WM .050 FB 3.6 Match chamber 3B contour, Defiance anti, Mesa Precision altitude stock, Hawkins BDL, Wyatt MBE-3, Tigger tech.

Action screws 65in lbs
Scope 20 in lbs and 45 in lbs to picatinny Checked twice and re installed.

The "break in"

Remove oil from barrel then shoot
Shoot 2 clean copper and carbon, bore scope to make sure. used 150GR reduced recoil
Shoot 4 clean copper and carbon, bore scope to make sure.

Ammo used

180SST superformance
180Gr Winchester super X
200Gr Hornady ELD-X

Shot off a bipod and bag

Weather semi calm wind 3-4mph L to R 40* in the AM to 60* by noon

Confirmation took my 6.5CM and shot a sub 1/2moa group

Barrel temps low

Findings:

Before shooting trigger was touching BDL made clearance

BDL and wyatt mag box was rubbing BDL removed then shot the second to final group of a one hole with Winchester super X let cool and shot the final group of the day with Winchester Super X
I thought I might throw this out there since this is your first custom rifle. First, is this also your first rifle this powerful? The reason I ask is you said you don't think you are the problem since you could turn around and shoot 1/2" with your creed. Shooting a .300 can be very different because of the recoil. No, it doesn't look like you are flinching, but you may be holding it inconsistently. Some magnums like to be lightly held, nearly free recoil, some held tightly. This can change when shooting off bags or a bipod. Amount of preload and how consistent that is, is a big deal with a cartridge this big. You may already know all this, but if you don't play around with it, and let it tell you what it likes. Also, the bigger the cartridge the harder it is to get it to shoot either well or consistently with factory loads, and you really will not know what it is capable of without going through the process and working up a load fitted to your new rifle, and BTW it is a very nice one.
 
I nec
I thought I might throw this out there since this is your first custom rifle. First, is this also your first rifle this powerful? The reason I ask is you said you don't think you are the problem since you could turn around and shoot 1/2" with your creed. Shooting a .300 can be very different because of the recoil. No, it doesn't look like you are flinching, but you may be holding it inconsistently. Some magnums like to be lightly held, nearly free recoil, some held tightly. This can change when shooting off bags or a bipod. Amount of preload and how consistent that is, is a big deal with a cartridge this big. You may already know all this, but if you don't play around with it, and let it tell you what it likes. Also, the bigger the cartridge the harder it is to get it to shoot either well or consistently with factory loads, and you really will not know what it is capable of without going through the process and working up a load fitted to your new rifle, and BTW it is a very nice one.
I have owned and own other 7- 7.5lb without scope 300wm and 300prc I would definitely call myself out if I couldn't shoot. I do get what you are saying.
 
I sent it back to the builder who bedded it originally. My guess is the stocks bottom metal cutout was uneven and either action or bottom metal where to far forward or rearward causing blind mag issues and the action screws to not come down straight.
If he didn't bed the bottom metal then ask him to once he gets it inlet properly.
 
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