700 Barrel Removal at Standstill

[Muddyboots]

OK, I bought a used 700 LA with a Remington 308 factory barrel that was reamed to 30-06AI. I have Wheeler barrel vise and an action wrench that will do 700's. I taken plenty off without any problems at all until NOW! Soaked 3 days with PB Blaster in vertical position on threads just to give it some potential penetration, went through usual setting barrel and wrench and the bugger will not budge even striking the action wrench handle with large rubber mallet.

I heat it with heat gun taking the action up to 200F and still no go which has always worked before.

Placed barrel in freezer for 24 hours, reset in vise, heated action up to 350F with Mapp and still no go; just will not budge. I have been told to take it up to 600F to melt possible thread locker which I am now thinking may have been used to seat the barrel after being reamed to 30-06AI.

So what do you think about 600F? I am not a fan of heating with Mapp but I am out of ideas. I have used the freezer, soaked the crap out of it, used pretty heavy rubber mallet to strike the action wrench so it was getting good shot of impact.

What's next?

 

[tobnpr]

Thread locker on a barrel is absolute idiocy.
The exact opposite of anti-seize- which is what's supposed to be used.
Typical red threadlocker breaks at 400 or so- not enough to change metallurgy but I'd be hesitant until last resort.

I'm puzzled-
When you say it won't budge, that just means you need a longer cheater bar- assuming you've got a stout, outside-the-action wrench like the Brownell's. I've put a four foot cheater on it and lifted my 220 lbs off the ground with it. Eventually, enough ft/lbs of torque will do it- or the barrel will slip in the vise. My guess is it's slipping? If not, put a pipe on it...the Wheeler may not be up to the task. Not uncommon for factory barrels to need 500-600 ft lbs or more.

 

[Darryle]

Are you trying to save the barrel? If not, saw it just forward of the lug, will unscrew easily then

 

[Muddyboots]

My next try is I have some lead pipe stashed for fishing jigs that I will split and place in wood blocks. Friend swears by lead in blocks helps. Will say the wood blocks are not the greatest to hold up to torque so hope adding lead helps. The vise is mounted on a 8' steelcase industrial table that you could land a helo on it so stout. Have 4' bar in pole barn that is coming to party. Wished I had 6' and just might hit hardware store in morn. Getting some sheetrock tape as backup to wrap barrel in blocks. Then I will use my 6'4" 260 lbs to max!

I'd like to save barrel if I could but last resort is cut it and place in garden for tomatoes.

Good comments! Thx!

 

[Danny1788]

You can try powdered sugar on the barrel shank and tighten the crap out of it. It will act like resin and hold it in place. The oak blocks don't hold up to stuff like this.
An all steel barrel vise with aluminum inserts is the way to go.

 

[xsn10s]

I have the same action wrench and barrel vice and had no luck getting a Rem 700 22-250 off. I used rosin, sandpaper, and even crocus cloth on the wooden blocks to grip it. I would have tried the lead trick but didn't have any. I had soaked the barrel/ action with PB Blaster for almost two weeks prior to removal. Finally my machinist buddy asked "have you tried a pipe wrench?". A pipe wrench with the barrel vice and cheater bar on the action wrench did the trick. Marred the barrel, but I ended up screwing it back on to shoot this season. If this didn't work I would have had to get another vice, or cut a relief in the barrel.

 

[xsn10s]

An all steel barrel vise with aluminum inserts is the way to go.

Yup that's been my machinist's advice too.

 

[LuvDog]

Are you sure you're not compressing the action on to the barrel threads with the wrench? Some people clamp it too close to the barrel and also way to tight.

But honestly, cut it and move on

 

[Muddyboots]

Curious anybody use Wheeler Universal Barrel Clamp to replace the oak blocks in vise?

 

[David Emerson]

First take your wheeler vise to the scrap metal place. I used to have one. JUNK. I then bought a Farrel vise. The taper on a remington barrel makes it difficult. It takes 450 degrees to release loctite. squirt some oil inside your action and when it starts on fire you are there. Not to worry, it will not hurt your bluing. I have had actions tight enough I had to lift the steel table off the floor and set the wrench on a 2x6 and whack the wrench head hard with a 4 pound hammer to get it loose. Just don,t miss and hit your action lol. Failing that put it in the lathe and turn a relief groove just in front of the action.

 

[Danny1788]

Cut the recoil lug with a angle grinder as much as possible and then use a parting tool in the lathe on the recoil lug. They are much cheaper to replace and the barrel is saved that way.

 

[Muddyboots]

This barrel should be easy since it is Sendero contour and never had any problems before. The oak blocks are definitely crap which I will replace with aluminum blocks. The lead wrapped around barrel just might help enough. I like the idea cutting recoil lug as oh crap option. The more I do this the more I want a steel stanchion bolted to concrete floor to hold barrel vise. Then I can jump from floor joists onto cheater!

 

[Danny1788]

BARREL VISE W/5 INSERTS GUNSMITH REMINGTON 700 | eBay

FOR SALE: AGUNSMITH BARREL VISE WITH FIVE BUSHINGS. 1 1/2" OD ALUMINUM BUSHINGS 1" 1.150" 1.20" 1.250" and REMINGTON 700. GRADE EIGHT BOLTS AND WASHERS.

www.ebay.com

The bushing are poorly machined, I made all my own bushings. But this vise has served me well for many years. Just move on from the wheeler vise

 

[manitou]

I second the steel vise with aluminum inserts.
Also: Midway sells lead shims for this purpose, but I had barrels spin in the lead.