6mm Creedmoor issue

[Starlite]

Post 50 . Photo of carbon ring & cleaning method.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...cleaning-with-more-teslong-pics.860996/page-2

Other online photos seem to show carbon in a small area. Not the full length of the throat?

This photo is said to be a 6mm Rem after 7000 shots.View attachment 243577

Wow. 7000 rounds. I wish that was me. Has anyone had an issue this stubborn following 150rds down the pipe?

 

[Starlite]

You are getting a lot of advice as to different chemicals to put in that barrel, and this could be disastrous. Unless you're a chemist I wouldn't put anything in that barrel that wasn't made for it. Furthermore, I strongly suggest you speak with one of the barrel manufacturers about how to handle this. I spoke with Frank Green at Bartlein, and I promise you he did not suggest I use any of the things I've seen suggested. His suggestion is soak the throat with Hoppes #9, overnight and then use a patch wrapped brush to short stroke the throat. He also said JB Bore Compound, not Bore Brite, to help remove the stubborn carbon, followed by Hoppes. He said there are a lot of chemicals that can etch or pit the barrel.

I'm not a chemist and certainly understand your concerns. I have looked up the products MSDS sheets. So far I'm in the clear WRT likely etching the bore / barrel well..as far as I can tell. The important thing is to remove and /or neutralize them.
Last night I left some wipeout in the barrel will clean thoroughly and will await on the borescope before proceeding.
I do believe, as what someone here said; it's true. There are 2 different issues. Think there is a tight bore/throat and carbon buildup.

 

[JAYgs8163]

Wow. 7000 rounds. I wish that was me. Has anyone had an issue this stubborn following 150rds down the pipe?

No I have not had the issues show up so soon. But I've had stubborn carbon deposits/rings. Did you ever get a chamber mop? If not, get one and soak it in your chemical of choice and follow the directions carefully. I would pick one chemical specific to removing carbon and stick with it. Stop switching back and forth between chemicals as you can run into issues that can damage your barrel/chamber/throat. Soak the mop and put it in the chamber and follow solvent instructions. I've used solvent that is safe to soak the barrel in. Get the chamber mob, soak in solvent and carefully get into the chamber and let it soak max time allowable per instructions. After that carefully clean and repeat as necessary. Chamber mops make the soaking process so much easier. Good luck!

 

[Starlite]

No I have not had the issues show up so soon. But I've had stubborn carbon deposits/rings. Did you ever get a chamber mop? If not, get one and soak it in your chemical of choice and follow the directions carefully. I would puck one chemical specific to removing carbon and stick with it. Stop switching back and forth between chemicals as you can run into issues that can damage your barrel/chamber/throat. Soak the mop and put it in the chamber and follow solvent instructions. I've used solvent that is safe to soak the barrel in. Get the chamber mob, soak in solvent and carefully get into the chamber and let it soak max time allowable per instructions. After that carefully clean and repeat as necessary. Chamber mops make the soaking process so much easier. Good luck!View attachment 243617

Yes I did get a mop and yeah I'm done chasing my tail. It's very expensive to get bore tech ( can get 2 bottles of wipeout tactical for $10 less delivery TMD)
It shipped today. My borescope will be here Friday. If our province wasn't in lockdown I'd already be at the gunsmiths shop.
I'll keep you all posted if you care to know.
also here is a better photo with light up the barrel. It's an upside down look. If you look carefully at the 12 o'clock (6 actually) you can see all the fine ridges of carbon. Well..I can see them on the screen. Little bug-errrrs. Photos Still not very good but gives you something to stare at if your spouse is asking you to clean the floors or something.

thanks for all the support folks. This is Y this site is the best. It's not about who's right. It's the journey.
But Steve was right and I'll point it out although he already did.

 

[BoomFlop]

Hope you get it figured out bud! I agree, probably not as much as the product used as it is simply the "elbow grease" required to remove it.

Have a great day, and try not to get frustrated!
Steve

 

[Starlite]

Hope you get it figured out bud! I agree, probably not as much as the product used as it is simply the "elbow grease" required to remove it.

Have a great day, and try not to get frustrated!
Steve

Steve,
Any idea on how / what to apply "elbow Grease" given I've used a plethora of items? Nylon brush, brass brush, 6 & 6.5mm Tipton pellets, bore mops, square patches and round patches.

 

[BoomFlop]

Unfortunately I don't have any good advise for you. I would stick with 1 known Carbon removing product and just keep at it. I'm not sure that you are doing anything wrong, just baked on and hard to remove.

Good luck
Steve

 

[KR260]

I use wipeout. I've never had an issue with any other caliber or rife using wipeout and my cleaning technique.
Im in agreement with you all now But, still bewildered this would happen after shooting less then 200 over 4 trips to the club (so that's 4 cleanings too).
ive got some Hope's #9 bore cleaner and some Hope's #9 bore snake CLP.

I used to use wipeout. I tried some BoreTech Eliminator on a "clean" barrel and never used wipeout again. I have had the start of a carbon ring with Rl16 in less than 200 rounds.

 

[JAYgs8163]

If the chemical you have is safe to leave over night I would soak the Bore mop and push it in carefully as far as you can into the chamber and then leave it overnight. That's how I got mine to finally loosen up and come off. Took 3-4 times repeating the same process. Make sure you have a good product to flush it out after brushing, etc...

 

[Seabeeken]

Starlite, clean the chamber and bore as clean as possible and do a chamber cast. Its the best way to answer your question. Very simple to do The Cerrosafe low temp alloy is available on Brownells.
Looks like the throat is very tight or very dirty. Please keep us posted. The 3 best cleaners i've used are Bore Tech Eliminator, Flitz liquid polish, and TM bore solvent.

 

[Starlite]

Starlite, clean the chamber and bore as clean as possible and do a chamber cast. Its the best way to answer your question. Very simple to do The Cerrosafe low temp alloy is available on Brownells.
Looks like the throat is very tight or very dirty. Please keep us posted. The 3 best cleaners i've used are Bore Tech Eliminator, Flitz liquid polish, and TM bore solvent.

I just finished another inspection with the new borescope. This borescope was a disappointment WRT giving me what I wanted (detailed pictures). However, it confirmed where the issue is. For whatever reason I can't email these photos to my iPhone and thus can't post. I'll work on that though.

The carbon issue actually might be in two regions. First (and most common area from my readings) and most prominent area is just at the leading edge of the free bore ( right after the neck of brass )

the second area seems to be in the chamber. Not sure on this area but it's not smooth looking. This latter area is very troubling to me. How could this happen? I went back to look at the LabRadar data. It seems like there might have been some sort of misfire or neck tension issue. On one load development string, there were 4 of 10 that had significant decrease in velocity. I've had variations in velocity and at times sever change so I never gave this a second thought. I remember looking at the brass as I always do but more this time as it was new alpha brass with SRP. In a new rifle. Other then a little carbon sooty neck (much the same as always with other rifles) all seemed normal.

later I'll post a photo and name of the borescope so that you all won't buy it. It's a nice unit just can't focus at minimal distance. Which it said it would.

 

[Starlite]

Update. Just got back from gunsmith as despite my efforts couldn't get that 75gr VMAX to bolt up. Well Steve sorry it wasn't a carbon ring. According to the smith was a burr. According to him they have had a string Remington rifles with poor finish work. Apparently they're seeing burr issues right out of the box or shortly thereafter. He also said if I am going to shoot Hornady frequently then clean the bore just as frequently as Remington has tight bores as compared to other manufacturers.
So there you go. I'll give a final update once I've fired it again.

 

[JAYgs8163]

Glad you got to the bottom of it. I also had a similar issue with a Savage. Had a burr in the chamber that the brass would expand into after being fired and would prohibit extraction. It would extract fine if not fired but once fired it was not able to extract easily.

 

[Seabeeken]

You expect better from Remington. I had the worst bore I ever saw on a savage 223. The button chattered all the way from breech to muzzle. Would copper would in 3 shots and accuracy never was decent. It's now a 20VT that is the most accurate rifle I've ever owned. Lights out on groundhogs. Last year, I put a match grade tube on my Savage short action in 250AI. This tube was from Preferred barrel blanks and had the most perfect bore of any match barrel I own. Absolutely zero anomalies but a horrible chamber job. Chips embedded, just horrible (pic attached). I had to hone it to prevent brass from hanging up and severe marks on brass.