I have found annealing to be more problematic for me than beneficial. Unless you have the necessary equipment, the point at which the brass becomes too soft is too narrow for most reloaders to gauge. I have even been frustrated with some reputable brass suppliers over-annealing cases from their factories. The brass needs some spring tension in order to secure the bullet in the case or the cartridge integrity will not reliably be maintained when loading from a magazine in the field. With the availability of bushing dies it is easier for me to regulate consistent neck tension with bushing size in relation to brass hardness. For those with a trusted process I applaud you and know it can be beneficial in prolonging brass life and accuracy, if that is a regular step in your reloading process. As long as I have a smooth/consistent seating the accuracy does not seem to be affected by not continually annealing, in my experience. But, if I get the annealing wrong it will be problematic. If I was a bench-rest competitive shooter and could carefully hand load each round I may feel differently but for hunting or PRS type competition I prefer the benefit of slightly rigid brass.
The reason we anneal brass cases.
- Thread starter J E Custom
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As stated previously, annealing is not for everyone.
JTB-
At the bottom of your post you mentioned "if you were a bench rest competitive shooter"
If we are long range hunters we sure as heck should be long range shooters before we ever become
long range hunters.
Therefore, and this is just as I see it, doing everything I can to ensure my bullet connects with any target; is my main goal.
Annealing isn't a witchcraft, it's just a step in doing everything one should do in an attempt to win the gold.
This is all just my opinion of course
At the bottom of your post you mentioned "if you were a bench rest competitive shooter"
If we are long range hunters we sure as heck should be long range shooters before we ever become
long range hunters.
Therefore, and this is just as I see it, doing everything I can to ensure my bullet connects with any target; is my main goal.
Annealing isn't a witchcraft, it's just a step in doing everything one should do in an attempt to win the gold.
This is all just my opinion of course
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Thanks JE. I too am in the camp of the socket/torch/metronome. I also know that as I grow and have more precision equipment, an annealer is already on the the list of upgrades.
Kmccord
Well-Known Member
When do you anneal the cases before you do a F/L resize or after? I would assume before you resize, but I have never annealed before and do not know the correct order it should be done.
I've done extensive tests over the years and am fortunate enough to be able to test brass hardness and you are correct, The drill and socket works just fine if done correctly, I have found that the dark room soft orange glow yields 65-68HV which is almost what new brass is depending on the brand, as you said consistency is the key
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J E Custom
Well-Known Member
The issue of how long is based on how much you size the brass and how hot you load them.
Some anneal every time they fire them so the bullet grip is consistently the same. This method
prevents any shift in POI. If your yardage is held to 2 or 300 yards it will be hard to see much difference in impacts. normally the Human factor is the difference.
I prefer to do this on the long range rifle cartridges and anneal every second or third firing on the less intense cartridges, or when one throws a flier. Fliers are normally shooter error unless you call a great shot and it goes out of the group anyway. Annealing and neck turning tends to eliminate this by improving the consistency of the bullet grip ,and this helps in accuracy. (Especially at long ranges.)
If you are happy with 1 MOA accuracy, much of this is not necessary. if you want or need 1/2 MOA accuracy, then it helps but if you want 1/4 MOA or less I feel it is a must.
Case prep is an evolutionary process that takes time and patients and is developed over time as the shooter gets better and demands better accuracy. So carry these process as far as you need or want, then relax and enjoy.
J E CUSTOM
cohunt
Well-Known Member
I built an annealing machine for less than $100--- 2 small motors, a couple digital controllers ,an old extension cord, a power converter, some scrap wood and aluminum sheet, a small cake pan, an old torch and some tempilac paint. It works great and is faster and more consistent than the old socket method
I am just saying I have attempted annealing and have found I was not consistent enough at it to improve seating tension over using bushing dies. I have a system that works for me. When hunting season rolls around I use twice fired brass for each rifle as those seem to be the most consistent with reliable integrity. Some of my PRS rounds go 8-9 firings before I toss them. I have a range with plates hanging out to 2000 yards and know each of my rifle/load capabilities before they go in the field. We regularly take deer at 800 yards or more (elk at 700 or more) and I know what combinations work for me. We have only lost one deer over the years and it was a lesson learned on proper bullet selection. I said I know annealing can prove beneficial to those who have mastered it but I have had bad experiences from overly softened brass not holding firm (allowing the bullet to be pushed further into the case or case deformation). I am just offering my opinion on what I have done to help assure my success in the field.
Envious that you have access to a hardness tester!
Dim light -- that is the key. You know 'zackly what I'm talking about. You can't see that "dull orange" with the florescent lights on.
You are 100% correct, Folks way over think it and make it way harder than it is and just for reference for all the Tempilaq users, it has an error factor of 1% so at 750 degrees thats plus or minus 7 degree's, dont get wrong it's a fine product but it's still just a reference indicator
