Zero at 100 Yards and Leave Turret at 200 Yards for Hunting?

what I am trying to say is atmospheric conditions will cause a 200 yard zero to shift, unless he wants to rezero every time he goes out. I'd suggest OP talk to any reputable long range shooting instructor and ask them what his zero range will be.
Dialing off of a 200 yard zero in a new hunting location is not generally advised, hence PRS guys and even long range hunters and form USMC scout snipers (Modern Day Sniper) zero at 100
I understand what you are trying to say, but, we are talking .1 moa approximately. How many people have a scope that has fine enough adjustments to get a perfect zero less than .1 moa? And even if they did, how many rifles are perfect enough to get an exact zero less than .1 moa? If the rifle and load isn't capable of a 5 shot group....or even a 3 shot group of .1 moa or less, then how would you even know that you have a perfect zero at any given distance? And besides that, if I am changing hunting locations, different state or extreme altitude change, I myself am going to check my zero before I go hunting.
 
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I understand what you are trying to say, but, we are talking .1 moa approximately. How many people have a scope that has fine enough adjustments to get a perfect zero less than .1 moa? And even if they did, how many rifles are perfect enough to get an exact zero less than .1 moa? If the rifle and load isn't capable of a 5 shot group....or even a 3 shot group of .1 moa or less, then how would you even know that you have a perfect zero at any given distance?

I agree no rifle will ever be perfectly zeroed... at ANY range but the amount of error is less at 100 add on less effected by atmospheric conditions than a 200 or 300 zero. So I'm the game of reducing error it is advised to zero at 100 if you plan on dialing for longer shots.
 
I suggest a hunter style reticle and shoot the rifle at each distance to plot the poi. This is the best method imo. spinning dials ( unless its a BDC dial) is asking for trouble.

Before those hunter style reticles were made, I just sighted in at my point blank range for the animal I was hunting and I always verify hit probability at the longest range. I would never shoot over 600 yards. That is my self imposed distance due to wind reading, rifle accuracy and cartridge energy.
 
Does anyone zero at 100 yards but set their turret for 200 yard shot or MPBR and just hold on vitals out to a max range for simplicity? I can see how a 100 yard zero is convenient and with an elevation turret leaving it set on 1.75 MOA for example when hunting so it's an easy viral hold out to 250 yards or so. Anything further can be dialed.
I've zeroed my hunting guns at 200 for over 35 years. Works good out to 400, don't miss very often mostly because I don't take a questionable shot.
 
500 yds should be a fairly easy shot if rested, and you know your rifle. Beyond that it's a different story. I never had a scope that I could dial in the range with the scope yet. I have missed more at 300 yards or there about. That was because I was shooting over the animal. I use to set my scope at 3.5" high at 100yds. At that time there wasn't many range finders on the market. So now I set my rifles up at 1" high at a 100 yds. That took care of that problem. With today range finder telling what your yards is, it make it easier to elevate your rifle up some to take care of the drop. Shooting uphill or downhill and depending on the angle it's now becomes a problem of how much to hold down on the animal. That where I really had the problem remembering to hold lower on the animal especially with my sightin @ 3.5" at 100yds. I found it was easier to raise my rifle a little than to remember to lower it. Most of my rifles are set at the 1" high at a 100yds, and the velocity is at about 3200fps. If you look at the bullet path with almost any spitzer boat tail going at the same velocity you will see that the drop is almost the same out the first 500yds with different calibers. I also do a print out in excel noting drops and windage tape to the butt of the stock on my rifles showing bullet drop distances, and windage. I changed a very long time ago to shooting rifles that the velocity is about the same. Bullet path is almost the same. I don't know if that help any or not, but lowering your sight in will help.
 
Zero at 200 and don't worry about anything that comes in closer.

What he said.

Zero at 200. Anything under that will still hit vitals of deer, or slight hold low for something smaller. Still well within vitals at 250, then figure any holds or dials beyond that. A zero at 100 means bigger adjustment at longer ranges, and a zero at 300 may result in a miss at 100 or less. Obviously a general statement for most modern rifle cartridges.
 
A zero at 100 means bigger adjustment at longer ranges.

How would this affect accuracy? Please elaborate. Also how would zeroing at 100, then given current hunting conditions dial for 200 while In the field be less effective? In reality 100 yd zeros are in fact a more reliable foundation build off of when dialing at distance, I'm telling you guys that disagree, read what the current long range instructors/professionals are teaching and advocating.

edit: my 6.5PRC is 22moa 1,000 with a 200yd zeroaccording to my kestrel elite, with a 100yd zero it's 23.1. I don't see the logic if adjusting 1 more moa at 1,000 yds is the basis for zeroing at 200yds where like many people who shoot a lot more than us say introduces error into your foundation for dialing.
 
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How would this affect accuracy? Please elaborate. Also how would zeroing at 100, then given current hunting conditions dial for 200 while In the field be less effective? In reality 100 yd zeros are in fact a more reliable foundation build off of when dialing at distance, I'm telling you guys that disagree, read what the current long range instructors/professionals are teaching and advocating.

edit: my 6.5PRC is 22moa 1,000 with a 200yd zeroaccording to my kestrel elite, with a 100yd zero it's 23.1. I don't see the logic if adjusting 1 more moa at 1,000 yds is the basis for zeroing at 200yds where like many people who shoot a lot more than us say introduces error into your foundation for dialing.

Never said anything about accuracy. Either method would not be more or less accurate.. just different adjustment. Just put in .02 for what works for me based on the OP question. Wasn't trying to start a ****ing match with you... Calm down man, haha. I just can't wrap my head around setting your 'zero' at 100, just to re-set an adjusted zero to keep at 200... Does it really matter? no. Do what works for you, and stop "beating your head against the wall," worrying about what I do. I just like the K.I.S.S. Method in the field with a 200-yd zero.
 
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With a bullet velocity @ about 3200fps set 1" high @ 100yds is about zero at 200yds. It's about 5.5" low at 300yds. So if the deer or elk at 300yds holding at center mass is dead. Deer which is the smallest is about 16" from bottom of brisket to top of back. How simple is that? If your velocity is greater than that, it's less. About 4 years back in Africa hunting with a group. One hunter with a Nightforce scope on his rifle. He was changing it's aiming point for distance constancly. He wounded an animal at 50yds, and couldn't make the second shot @ 125yds. The animal ran off, and was lost. The whole time he was adjusting his scope for elevation. He stated he couldn't shot because he didn't have his scope set at the correct elevation. I realize that some rifles shot slower than that. That why I use rifles that give me about 3200 fps.
 
300 yard zero works just as well for big game as a 200 yard zero if your MV is 3000fps or greater. Hold dead on from 0-350 and not worry about missing an 8" vital...No dialing for this or that, if it's over 350, then you can start dialing, otherwise just leave it at zero. Really not that difficult either way. Again, personal preference...The above guy in Africa is just another example of a guy with too much money, and not enough brains, hahaha.
 
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