Need Advice on a Swivel Stud Repair Synthetic Stock

[Josebigsky]

Hey Guys,

This past weekend we were rifle hunting elk and I took a tumble and the rear swivel stud on my rifle stripped out of the hole on the stock. It is a Montana Rifle Company 300 WSM with the stock they made. The company is no longer operating. This is my elk rifle, and need to have it within the next week. Need some advice on the best way to repair this. I was thinking of mixing up some JB Weld and using it to put the stud back in the hole. What do you all think?

 

[livetohunt]

I would either upgrade to a QD cup, or get a 10-32 sling stud, and then something like this with JB weld.

E-Z Knife™ Threaded Insert for Hard Wood - Brass - 10-32

E-Z Knife™ Threaded Insert for Hard Wood - Brass - 10-32E-Z Knife™ inserts are designed for use in hard woods, like oak, cherry, and maple. E-Z Knife™ inserts are ideal for use wherever assembly or disassembly could lead to thread erosion or stripping. Also, E-Z Knife™ inserts for wood use a...

www.ezlok.com

 

[Dosh]

Epoxy that baby back in the hole, wait 24 hours to cure and go hunting. Had one pull out on a deer hunt and had to carry a fairly heavy rifle for quite a few miles.

 

[Josebigsky]

Dosh,

Do you remember the epoxy you used?

I've used JB Weld on other items that had to have a quick turnaround and it worked just fine.

Thank you, Joe.

 

[Dosh]

Dosh,

Do you remember the epoxy you used?

I've used JB Weld on other items that had to have a quick turnaround and it worked just fine.

Thank you, Joe.

Marine-Tex grey. If you have a compressor, blow out the hole, rinse it with alcohol, let it dry and you can wipe excess with a rag with a little alcohol. Good luck

 

[David Emerson]

5 minute JB will work. Put some paste wax on your stud if you desire to ever screw it out.

 

[338 dude]

Hey Guys,

This past weekend we were rifle hunting elk and I took a tumble and the rear swivel stud on my rifle stripped out of the hole on the stock. It is a Montana Rifle Company 300 WSM with the stock they made. The company is no longer operating. This is my elk rifle, and need to have it within the next week. Need some advice on the best way to repair this. I was thinking of mixing up some JB Weld and using it to put the stud back in the hole. What do you all think?

Get a swivel stud that has a longer stud I have many different options here if it does not penetrate the other side say like In the barrel channel a longer stud drill deeper will get into fresh meat if it is in the barrel channel a longer stud with a nut in a recessed hole on the backside would be the way to go

 

[David Emerson]

I hate the studs. I toss them and counterbore the cups and install the flush mount swivels. Take your sling off and you have a smooth stock.

 

[Josebigsky]

Thanks for the advice, David. I think I will do this in the off-season. I looked at them at Brownells just now. For right now to get me back up quickly. I am going the epoxy route. Much appreciated gents! As always grateful for the knowledge on the LRH site. Good luck this season.

 

[smokepoler]

Drill the hole bigger and push in one of these. Epoxy it if you prefer but like others, go with flush cups.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0764HXYY7/?tag=lrhmag19-20

 

[jdyoung]

Hey Guys,

This past weekend we were rifle hunting elk and I took a tumble and the rear swivel stud on my rifle stripped out of the hole on the stock. It is a Montana Rifle Company 300 WSM with the stock they made. The company is no longer operating. This is my elk rifle, and need to have it within the next week. Need some advice on the best way to repair this. I was thinking of mixing up some JB Weld and using it to put the stud back in the hole. What do you all think?

What's it made of - fiberglass ? Plastic ? If it's a plastic ( Tupperware) stock, not all epoxies will work ..

 

[ntsqd]

To restore threads I would use one of these:
https://www1.mcmaster.com/threaded-inserts/stainless-steel-tapping-inserts-for-hardwood/ #10-32 is the common thread size, but I'd check it before assuming anything.
Drill the hole deep enough & set it shallow now for the typical QD stud, then can set it deeper later for the flush type. BTW, the flush type are not flush in the toe of a stock. They are either tangent to the bottom of the stock and stick out on either side or you set them deeper and have to add some miters to the stock in order for the swivel to actually swivel.

 

[epoletna]

I have used rivet nuts (recommended by Smokepoler) on several applications, mostly aircraft. For the proper application, they are a good choice. But in your case, putting a stud in the stock of the rifle, I would guess the rivet nut might create more side pressure on the heel of the stock than you would want. They expand when you use the puller to put them in, and normally (as would be the case installing them in a hole in aluminum sheet) that expansion has some place to go. In a solid stock, which is already tapered, you might find they create outward pressure on the hole and risk cracking the stock. I think just using epoxy to seat a replacement stud would be sufficient for your needs.

 

[264MHC]

I would drill a hole slightly smaller than the larger diameter of the stud then fill that with epoxy. Use a 24 hour cure epoxy like marine Tex. Significantly stronger than 5 minute. Once cured, drill and tap directly in the center of your epoxy and thread the stud back in. That way the stud will still unscrew but be very strong. If you decide to do flush cups later it will be easy to drill out the epoxy plug as you'll already have a guide hole, and the stud won't be stuck in there.