I've had several BAR's and 1 in particular that would shoot all over the place. I made some shims to go between the fore end and the attachment point on the barrel and it did the trick. You can also try different amounts of torque to the fore end/ sling attachment stud. I have an older Grade II in my safe right now that used to be very accurate but hasn't been fired in a while. That particular rifle was ordered in 1967 when they first came out. It's a 30-06 but I've owned several others.
Two groups at same time? Same gun and ammo
- Thread starter tribb
- Start date
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MNbogboy
Well-Known Member
Dean2 mentioned the forearm placement on the rest, which is very important. Also your place on the stool or seat. Had you walked down to the target between groups? It certainly doesn't take much to change POI on a hunting rifle. The temperature of the bags or difference in "stickness" of the bags can move you an inch or two. Your grip upon the rifle especially the trigger hand can move a group diagonally fast. The lighter the rifle the more it will move with difference in grip & trigger control. I am still learning all these quirks in my retirement. Consistency certainly is the key.
Randy
Randy
Check your gun rest, scope mounts, and bedding screws.
Jon Bischof
Well-Known Member
I also put shims between the forearm and barrel on the Shortrac. It shoots Sub-MOA. But the OP's problem, if he allowed barrel to cool between groups is probably Scope/rings/base related. If he didn't allow barrel to cool between shots, then he's not really getting a representation of the POI from a cold, 1st shot.
NATE40
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2011
- Messages
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You may need to put a crimp on your reloads. If the action is picking up a round it may be pushing your projectile in or off center this can change the bullet strike. How were your groups shot? Cold clean bore for first group. Scope eye position can also cause groups to move
When you talk of shimming. Exactly where did you place the shims. Could you do a permanent shim job with Devcon. I know on my Ruger 1s I drill and tap the hanger the forearm attaches to so i can use a set screw to apply pressure to the barrel so that they are no longer choosy about rest location and hanger vibration but that doesn't seem to be an option with the BARs i own.
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RAGGED EDGE
Well-Known Member
Been written about before, but make sure the front mount screws are not contacting the barrel threads before they pull the base down tight against the receiver.
Jon Bischof
Well-Known Member
Dean2, I put a shim between the end of the forearm and the barrel--mainly to eliminate any rattle, but it did not hurt the groups either. I suspect the OP will get back to us eventually with the problem identified. But it is a lot harder to identify them on BAR's. Some shoot fantastic and some cannot be made to shoot well. Luck of the draw.
Herringbone
Active Member
I've experienced this and bedding fixed it.
Jon Bischof
Well-Known Member
You bedded a Browning BAR?
Herringbone
Active Member
Sorry, no mine was a bolt action. Nonetheless, sounds like something is moving.
checked scope mounting on a new vortex scope! Let it cool between each shot as well as groups. The fore end bolt is also the sling swivel stud. No sling on it! Ill find proper torque and check this bolt. This is a semi automatic rifle you are aware I'm sure. No rounds left in gun! We did find that the cooler the barrel the higher the shots hit!!! Hotter barrel made shots go lower, bassackards from a bolt gun!?! Go figure
Awesome great information thanks sir
