I believe the answer depends on your purpose: hunting or target shooting. Hunting; I would use the caliber and the ballistics of the round to determine my sight-in distance. Maximum distance that kept the bullet within a 4" circle: example, 28 Nosler approximately 240 yards. Thus, I could quickly point & shoot any animal out to approximately 275 yards. Slight adjustment in point of aim good to 300 yards. 300 WBY pretty much the same. Today shoot mostly paper & steel: small caliber( 6mm Creedmoor & 22-250 Rem) 200 yds with MOA reticles. Just another self taught way.
SCOPE ZERO FOR OVER 1000 YRDS
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LRNut
Well-Known Member
Several issues with this logic. Most of us still need to use a rangefinder to discern if that animal is 275 or 325 yards away; since you have measure it, you might as well hold for it. Animals less than 200 yards are much easier to discern that they are indeed close enough not to range, and the 200 yard zero works perfectly.
But just as important: if your trajectory is 4" high, half your bullets will be higher. If trying to hit a 10" target you are going to miss high at times due to this.
Bullets don't travel in a straight line; half are above, half are below. Half are to the right, and half to the left. Too many shooters think bullets have no dispersion, but they do. Same logic applies to your allowable wind estimation error. Suppose you can shoot a six inch group at 1200 yards. If you are trying to hit a ten inch circle, you only have two inches of "freeboard" on either side before you risk missing. What does it take to blow a 195 Berger at 2950 2" at 1200 yards? 3/10 of one mile per hour. In other words, to keep them all on the 10" plate you need to call the wind absolutely perfectly. Of course, you could blow the wind call by 1 mph, which would result in theoretically missing, since the drift would be .5 MOA or 6 inches. However, since half the bullets hit to one side, you would have nearly a 50% chance of hitting with an errant wind call, perhaps even hitting dead center. You would conclude it was a perfect wind call. Make it 2 mph however, and you miss every time.
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del2les
Well-Known Member
Personally and depending on the LR rifle and cartridge for game, varmint or target, I use a 200, 300 and 600 yard zero. I've used these for so many decades, they work well for me and are quick to acquire and engage a quick target/shot if needed. Typically, I use a 20 MOA base, but have used varied ones through the decades.
With the modern improvements in scopes and flatter trajectories of bullets, I find myself using the 200 and 300 yard zeros much more often. Sighting is always done on calm days, and for the 600 zeros, I have a slightly truer zero based on spin, etc. YMMV.
With the modern improvements in scopes and flatter trajectories of bullets, I find myself using the 200 and 300 yard zeros much more often. Sighting is always done on calm days, and for the 600 zeros, I have a slightly truer zero based on spin, etc. YMMV.
jdavistx
Well-Known Member
A 100 yard zero for shooting at 1000+ yards doesn't give you enough resolution. For example measurement at 100 yards +/- 0.1" is 1 inch at 1000 yards. Add to that all of the other variables and you're not on target. Is your MV constant? Air density? Wind - how well can you read it over distance? My go to reading list is Brian Litz. Accuracy and Precision. Do a WEZ analysis, factor in the base and see if you have enough reach. See what you get. It's just math until you take the shot but the math helps a lot. The point is, I confirm accuracy at 50% of my longest anticipated shot. Precision is what you get at shorter zero's. They are not the same.
NW Hunter
Well-Known Member
I sight in for a 250 yard zero for my hunting rifles.
Both my 300WM and 6.5x284 are 2.4" high at 100 yards and 3.3" low at 300 yards.
During a hunting situation at ranges that close, you don't always have time to dial.
Both my 300WM and 6.5x284 are 2.4" high at 100 yards and 3.3" low at 300 yards.
During a hunting situation at ranges that close, you don't always have time to dial.
What calibers are you shooting?
I am really sorry I did not make the point clear. I am not saying 4' high: but by a 4" circle, I am trying to suggest a max of 2'' high and a max of 2'' low for the longest distance available with a particular bullet and caliber. My 28 Nosler sighted-in at 245 yards requires an approx. elevation of 1/2 MOA at 275 yards and slight over 1MOA at 300 yds. I can tell you that after 60 year of hunting I think I can recognize when a Mule Deer is well less than 300 yds and if in a stable situation with little time allowed and by knowing my rifle, I will shoot without the use of my range finder. Just a suggestion and not trying to make a debate.
A 20 moa rail ( of which I have many) doesn't come into play until about 600 yards! If you are shooting a heavy....338 + I would recommend a minimal 1/2 distance Zero..... however...the downfall of the Zero Lock scopes....you can't readily dial down for 1-400 yard shots! So...if you are a paper shooter...no problem.....Zero at 500....if not I'd recommend 300 zero....
Just me
My mistake, 240 yds sight-in for 28N hunting rifle; ballistic table now correct.
LRNut
Well-Known Member
You did say a 4" circle, and I agree that is a great way to zero, although for simplicity's sake I like 200. And you are right; sometimes you don't have time for a RF. I remember trying to shoot a impala for leopard bait in Africa; we saw one, hopped out of the truck, but could not get a shot. The tracker and I followed...and followed. Finally we came out to another road and looked to the right - and there was an impala. I sat down, put the sling on my arm, and took aim halfway down the chest; figured he was around 200. He was actually about 250 (once the truck came and got him I ranged it). I did hit him low in the chest.
redleg1013
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Zero at 100, with 20 MOA rail.
lhshooter43
Member
I zero at 200 yds. I am using a Farrell 40 moa base. Scope is a IOR Recon on a 260 Rem. I am up 3.1 mil. for 600,
7.6 mil for 1000 and23.1 for 1760.
7.6 mil for 1000 and23.1 for 1760.
aushunter1
Well-Known Member
What your describing is called "maximum point blank range" & you have described it accurately!
Its a very good way of setting up your rifle for short to meduim range hunting senario's.
https://www.americanhunter.org/articles/2017/7/17/learn-your-maximum-point-blank-range/
ShootersCalculator.com | Point Blank Range Calculator
Calculates the maximum point blank range of a firearm cartridge fired from a rifle or handgun.
Doesnt help you at any other range other than what is in the MPBR for your rifle/cartridge.
If you have an accurate "real world" dope chart imo it doesnt matter where you zero your rifle if your dialing.
I've never done it but Im sure you could if you were constantly shooting long distance of say 500Y+ not zero at 500 but leave the scope dialed in at 500, like I am saying if you have your dope chart & then want to change from 500 to say 750 then you only have to dial in that amount.
I dont see why it wouldnt work??
