Blancoalex
Well-Known Member
Looking for suggestions on what improvements can be done to factory Rem 700 bolt for consistent primer ignition for better accuracy. Polishing,parts replacement,etc?
Rem 700 bolt ignition improvements?
- Thread starter Blancoalex
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aushunter1
Well-Known Member
I dont really understand why you would need to??
Bolts can become siezed/slow up due to grease so if that was happening I would ultrasonic clean all the parts, re lube
using light machine oil & just re assemble.
The is more than likely a stronger spring available if you think it needs it but again never needed one in any of my Rem's
Bolts can become siezed/slow up due to grease so if that was happening I would ultrasonic clean all the parts, re lube
using light machine oil & just re assemble.
The is more than likely a stronger spring available if you think it needs it but again never needed one in any of my Rem's
MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2008
- Messages
- 5,540
The only issue I have ever encountered was the pin that holds to firing pin assembly to the cocking piece kept moving out of place and would bind up the whole thing, especially on the uplift/cocking of the bolt. Just before I tore it all down to find the issue, the bolt was that hard to lift, even empty, I was having to hold the rifle between my knees.
Other than that issue, I have never found the need to polish or tweak anything.
I've had a few bushed but that was due to a primer issue.
Cheers.
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2016
- Messages
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Firing pin problems
A very common problem in many rifles is the firing pin spring. It is not just the Remington that can have this problem, so if you have the same issue as shone in this video it will prevent consistent ignition and sometimes fail completely. The problem is that If the spring inside diameter is...
cohunt
Well-Known Member
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PTG Speedlock Aluminum Firing Pin Assembly Remington 700 Non-ISS Short
These firing pins are made with an aluminum alloy shaft that is permanently bonded to a steel firing pin point. The lighter weight reduces lock time by...
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bigngreen
Well-Known Member
Get the firing pin hole bushed and in the center, face the bolt face and lugs, get rid of light pins and light springs, fit a new shroud that is on the center line and guides the rear of the pin correctly, polish the ramp and removed much of the notch for smother operation then have the bolt handle timed to the action and reinstalled.
Blancoalex
Well-Known Member
bigngreen, I found this pic on line to show what you refer to as polishing ramp and notch removal.
Do you have any pics to show fitting the oversized bolt shroud to share. Thanks
Do you have any pics to show fitting the oversized bolt shroud to share. Thanks
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
I like to very gently polish all of the contact surfaces of the firing pin assembly and when possible the bore that it rides in. I also gently radius the leading edges of those surfaces on the FP and the cocking piece. Not the actual cocking face(s), but those surfaces that ride in the bore of the bolt or shroud during the FP's movement. I usually use a Cratex "stone" to do this work on the FP. Note that those surfaces on the FP to be polished include where the spring can touch it, not just where it bears on it.
A coil spring is a torsion bar, it twists as it is compressed and relaxed. Run a Sharpie down one in a straight line while it is relaxed and then compress it and look at your formerly straight line. I know what you'll see, but I've not done it to one of these springs in particular. Also notice how the spring can have 'waves' in it when compressed. If you look at a high cycle FP spring you can see where these waves have worn the high nodes on the bolt's bore.
Given that the FP is fixed & can't rotate I expect there to be some minor rotation of the ends of the spring. It could be that a carefully sized bronze thrust washer between the spring and the FP, or the spring and the shroud, or both, would add some small consistency improvement in the FP's motion. In the same vein, the ends of the spring should be carefully de-burred and polished, particularly the very ends of the wire where the mfg process has no doubt left it a bit rough.
Were I building rifles in small production runs I'd look into having the FP's Superfinished or possibly NiB coated. I doubt either is cost effective for one or two at a time. If Superfinishing it might not hurt to have the spring done too. I'd research that before having it done, but I'd expect a spring to benefit from such work.
Since the Rem cocking motion requires rotation of the bolt shroud's threads in the bolt body I like to lap those threads so that they move smoothly and without any hesitation or grittiness. Same for the cocking surfaces, I like to lap those to each other. And I've been known to lap the primary extraction surfaces.
A coil spring is a torsion bar, it twists as it is compressed and relaxed. Run a Sharpie down one in a straight line while it is relaxed and then compress it and look at your formerly straight line. I know what you'll see, but I've not done it to one of these springs in particular. Also notice how the spring can have 'waves' in it when compressed. If you look at a high cycle FP spring you can see where these waves have worn the high nodes on the bolt's bore.
Given that the FP is fixed & can't rotate I expect there to be some minor rotation of the ends of the spring. It could be that a carefully sized bronze thrust washer between the spring and the FP, or the spring and the shroud, or both, would add some small consistency improvement in the FP's motion. In the same vein, the ends of the spring should be carefully de-burred and polished, particularly the very ends of the wire where the mfg process has no doubt left it a bit rough.
Were I building rifles in small production runs I'd look into having the FP's Superfinished or possibly NiB coated. I doubt either is cost effective for one or two at a time. If Superfinishing it might not hurt to have the spring done too. I'd research that before having it done, but I'd expect a spring to benefit from such work.
Since the Rem cocking motion requires rotation of the bolt shroud's threads in the bolt body I like to lap those threads so that they move smoothly and without any hesitation or grittiness. Same for the cocking surfaces, I like to lap those to each other. And I've been known to lap the primary extraction surfaces.
Tubb Precision CS Duo Firing Pin Spring - Rem 700 Short Action
Tubb Precision CS Firing Pin Spring for Remington 700 Short Action; Improve Consistency; No Firing Pin Interference; Extra Power.
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ntsqd
Well-Known Member
I *think* Sprinco makes a 700 FP spring too. Couldn't check it from here. Been really happy with their buffer springs and wouldn't hesitate to suggest them.
