Scope failed tall target test....🤬

[AKPilot]

So I have a Leupold VX6 on my CA 6.5 PRC. Rifle shoots really well, I've got a load worked up that is consistent and I'm feeling good about this fall until the tall target test. When I dial up, I get a 1.5-2" shift to the right. I ran the test 4 times. Made sure the target was plumb with a level, used levels to mount the scope, and even tried rotating the scope counter clockwise (since the shift was to the right). Nothing has worked. No matter what I try, when I dial up, I get a POI shift to the right. I know there are a lot of things that can cause this. I'm using Talley one piece rings for the mount. I've remounted the scope twice. I've got a NF I'm going to put on it to see if it is the scope or the mounts, or the receiver. Anyone have any other suggestions? Would a bore sighting tool show the discrepancy?? I got the scope from Holland's with his reticle in it. I'm going to call them on Monday to see what they have to say. Is it possible I just have a bad scope?? Thanks.
Glenn

Suggest this:
1) Mount Scope / rings snugged
2) Attach scope level to tube snugged
3) Set plum bob at 100 yards
4) Twist scope until vertical stadia plum in line with plum bob string snug rings tighter
5) Adjust scope level til bubble centers
6) Double Check reticle & scope level
7) Torque everything to specs
8) Try tall target, if fails send back to Leupold as bad scope (They have great customer service)
9) Good Luck

 

[Bob2650]

The more precisly the scope is mounted for windage, the closer to the bottom you can get before this becomes a problem.

 

[LRNut]

I like to mount my scopes so that they are pretty close to the bottom when zeroed. That way I have more room to dial up the elevation. This has caused weird problems in some scopes.

Any time the erector tube is at one end or the other in terms of adjustment, you can get weird horizontal or vertical changes. If you are not perfectly centered windage wise but at the bottom of the of elevation range, you can get a shift when you move vertically. If your windage is really off to one side, it can give you weird shifts as you change elevation.

I have said this before, but I gave up on the plumb line idea and instead use a 20 story building that I know has plumb vertical walls (the horizontal reticle line matches the roof and the vertical lines up with the side).

 

[jarnold37]

So I have a Leupold VX6 on my CA 6.5 PRC. Rifle shoots really well, I've got a load worked up that is consistent and I'm feeling good about this fall until the tall target test. When I dial up, I get a 1.5-2" shift to the right. I ran the test 4 times. Made sure the target was plumb with a level, used levels to mount the scope, and even tried rotating the scope counter clockwise (since the shift was to the right). Nothing has worked. No matter what I try, when I dial up, I get a POI shift to the right. I know there are a lot of things that can cause this. I'm using Talley one piece rings for the mount. I've remounted the scope twice. I've got a NF I'm going to put on it to see if it is the scope or the mounts, or the receiver. Anyone have any other suggestions? Would a bore sighting tool show the discrepancy?? I got the scope from Holland's with his reticle in it. I'm going to call them on Monday to see what they have to say. Is it possible I just have a bad scope?? Thanks.
Glenn

Several years ago I ran into the same dilema. Only my scope was a boosted 14-35 30 mm tube. When dialing up and then back it was 1/2 to 3/4" right every time. It was on a very accurate heavy rifle. I called Premier (who I purchased from and who boosted it) and they said not working on them any more so then called Leupold and they said would not work on boosted scopes but they said probably erector (spring) was common, but dont send it to us. Found a place called Iron Sight and they re did it. But never put on a gun after getting it back. Bought Nightforce NXS and forgot the Leupold in back of safe.

 

[KY_Windage]

Any time the erector tube is at one end or the other in terms of adjustment, you can get weird horizontal or vertical changes. If you are not perfectly centered windage wise but at the bottom of the of elevation range, you can get a shift when you move vertically. If your windage is really off to one side, it can give you weird shifts as you change elevation.

I have said this before, but I gave up on the plumb line idea and instead use a 20 story building that I know has plumb vertical walls (the horizontal reticle line matches the roof and the vertical lines up with the side).

Yes, that is one reason I quit trying to shoot LR with anything but NF (NXS, ATACR and Comp.)

You can check tracking with a building but you have no idea whether the reticle is aligned with the center of your bore unless you shoot it, so back to the plumbed bullseyes. My bullseyes are printed on copy paper, so if I staple them edge-to-edge they are perfectly straight. The plumb-line gets them plumb. My plumb-bob is free and tells no lies, not even small ones.

 

[Riceguy]

Here is a photo of one of my targets. View attachment 199651

 

[Riceguy]

Here is a photo of one of my targets. View attachment 199651

Love those targets, will have to get some

 

[JAYgs8163]

Any time the erector tube is at one end or the other in terms of adjustment, you can get weird horizontal or vertical changes. If you are not perfectly centered windage wise but at the bottom of the of elevation range, you can get a shift when you move vertically. If your windage is really off to one side, it can give you weird shifts as you change elevation.

I have said this before, but I gave up on the plumb line idea and instead use a 20 story building that I know has plumb vertical walls (the horizontal reticle line matches the roof and the vertical lines up with the side).

I'd love to see the expression on the faces of the people in the 20 story building when DOC shows up in his pickup, pulls out all his gear, and sets his rig up to square it on the building.

All in fun comment! Happy Father's Day all!

 

[Riceguy]

Where do I find them?

 

[Greg Page]

Hey Doc, Given the non-linear nature of the horizontal offset, i.e. it does not increase as you crank up, it simply can not be reticle cant, or how you hold the rifle. And it's certainly not stock pressure. I think you have a mechanical issue inside the scope. I agree with what LR nut wrote regarding the windage settings Is your windage basically centered, or did you have to crank hard one way or the other to center your shots when sighting in? I have had two instances when misaligned receiver mounting holes required near maximum windage adjustment to center my shots. This created a "crosstalk" in the elevation adjustment that caused just the sort of horizontal offset you are experiencing. If that's not it, then you have a broken scope.

 

[LRNut]

I'd love to see the expression on the faces of the people in the 20 story building when DOC shows up in his pickup, pulls out all his gear, and sets his rig up to square it on the building.

All in fun comment! Happy Father's Day all!

It is miles away. My neighbors on the other hand...

 

[LRNut]

Yes, that is one reason I quit trying to shoot LR with anything but NF (NXS, ATACR and Comp.)

You can check tracking with a building but you have no idea whether the reticle is aligned with the center of your bore unless you shoot it, so back to the plumbed bullseyes. My bullseyes are printed on copy paper, so if I staple them edge-to-edge they are perfectly straight. The plumb-line gets them plumb. My plumb-bob is free and tells no lies, not even small ones.

I agree about NF scopes; love them.

When I mount a scope I make sure the rifle is level by using a level on the rail. With that level, I make sure my scope is level. I then zero at 500 to minimize spin drift at longer ranges (but still matters). And while I prefer to practice at long range with wind, it is wise to once in a while check the zero at LR on a windless day. When I do that, I always bring two rifles to ensure there isn't a wind condition I am not aware of. The other thing I do is record every LR shot; one shot off to one side could be a bad wind call, but if a rifle is consistently hitting left or right, esp when other rifles are not, then I have either a tracking problem or a zero problem.

 

[Oldtime Shooter13]

If you are looking for true and accurate scope mounting start from the bottom up. One piece base is all that I will use if I am looking for long range accuracy.

First, place the two front screws into the front holes on the base. Tighten down hand tight, check the rear mounting point of the base to top of action. I have never had a one piece base that did not have a gap to fill? Before you do check that your rear screw holes on base align with the action. Remove the scope base from the rifle. I use JB Weld to fill the rear space and bed the base to the action it is inexpensive and it works. I have used accuraglass which comes with a release agent as well, but much more expensive. Shoe polish or wax works just as well but make sure you use several coats. Plug your screw holes on the action and on rear screw holes on the base with something. I use plumbers puddly. Crayon wax anything will work as long as you can clean it back out and it will stay in place. Is is not going to take a lot of JB Weld to make bed, but make sure you have enough without having to take the base off to add more.
Spread JB on the rear of base place the front screws into the base and place on your receiver. I typically will tighten the front mounting screws to torque specs. The JB Weld on the back of mount will squish out, I take a cotton swab soaked in alcohol to clean up the excess JB. If I can build a lip with JB where the rear of the base meets the ejection port so that when the mount is re-installed it has to go back in the same exact spot. I will let this set overnight, hence the use of plenty release agent.

Second, check your scope rings for alignment with your base. My preference is steel rings JMO. I use wheeler scope alignment tool, worth it weight in gold if you need to lap rings to base. I don't care what manufacture rings you buy, rings unless machined out of the same piece of metal at the same time will not be perfect. I have lapped every set of rings I have ever put on a rifle. When you have completed base and rings you will have created base and rings for this rifle only and mark the rings front and back with alignment marks. The rings will always need to be installed the same every time.

Lastly, I do not use levels on my scopes whatsoever! They are not accurate and can/will give you false readings. I trust my eye, hang a plumb Bob and align your vertical cross hair with the plumb bob. I don't know of many people that will shoulder a rifle perfectly vertical every time, but I trust my fitment to my rifle better than trying to align a couple of levels attached to my rifle and or scope. I don't want to be looking at levels when I am hunting!

 

[dfanonymous]

Where do I find them?

Store - Box to Bench Precision

Snipers Hide 100 Yard Scope Tracking Target - MIL - MOA - For Milliradian and Minute of Angle Scopes - True Minute of Angle - Precision Shooting -

www.boxtobenchprecision.com