Scope failed tall target test....🤬

Plumb bob is the best way to properly insure the reticle is vertically aligned correctly. If a level is used run it off a straight edge from the flat on the bottom of the turret housing.

I own many different scope brands including a lot of Leupolds and I luckily have never had this problem. The only dud I ever had was a SB and I purchased the same model a few years later and it is awesome. So everyone builds a dud once in awhile.
 
When you lay your scope tube in the rings is there any gaps on the bottom where the tube meets the rings? If so when you snug the rings up it will crest a torque on your tube. If there is any daylight showing then lap the rings.
 
I'm with @L.Sherm on this one. Epoxy bed the rings and be done with it... no more guessing, no more lapping, no more ring marks, no more twisted or bent scope tubes and it takes a ton out of the equation when trying to solve an issue with sighting in related problems. It could be a bad scope but a lot of times really good scopes get blamed for other issues. This simple fix solved almost every issue I had with mounting scopes or sighting in issues and anyone can do it.
 
Here is a photo of one of my targets. View attachment 199651
Its interesting to me that the POI shift is the same no matter how how you dial the elevation. If the bottom is your zero, it looks like your gun was shooting a little right to begin with. Your elevation seems like it is tracking spot on.
 
If it was a canting problem, wouldn't the right shift get larger the more you raised it?

Yes, so there may be more than one problem here, but there also may not.

I was adjusting one of my LR rifles today for cant (i.e., making sure my reticle was pointing at the center of my bore). The ONLY way to get it exact is the Tall Target test. However, Doc, if your impacts were to the left of your plumb-line when you cranked up then turning your scope counter-clockwise made the shift WORSE. That is because when you crank up it is the same as using the lower part of your reticle.

I'm guessing your wrong-way "corrections" were the reason your shift was not gradual.

Today I got sighted in at 100 yds, plumbed my bullseyes and shot the bottom one. They I cranked up 25 moa and shot the same POA again, making sure my reticle stayed aligned with the plumbed bullseyes. I hit a couple of inches to the left, so I rotated my scope c-clockwise, and made it worse, just as you did. Opps. Then I rotated clockwise, got this and called it good. I'm still 1/4" off but I'll fix it some other time, as 1/4" will only be 2-1/2" off at 1,000 yds.



Being 2" off-line at 100 yds, which is not nearly as bad as many I have seen, means you are 20" off at 1,000 yds. Not at all acceptable to me.

The clown that runs SH tried to tell me the other day that it isn't important that your reticle be aligned perfectly with your bore. Right, if you don't mind being a foot or more off to the left or right when you crank up and shoot at long distance! They call themselves "precision" shooters but what they really are is "shoot, see where you hit and correct" shooters. Then the idiot told me having a level on your rifle is unnecessary.

The convenience store must miss him badly. ;)
 
Just buy Burris signature rings and never worry about stress on your scope again. Plus you will never get a ring mark on your tube. They hold the scope tight as crap too. With the off set donut halves you can add moa to your scope or make off sets to account for mis alignment of scope base holes.
Shep

I won't use anything else, because of the non-stress issue and because they let me position my scope wherever I want it, which lets me maximize my internal adjustments for LR shooting, and keep my windage more or less centered. However, I frequently find a ring screw or two has worked loose. No big deal, I just snug 'em up and keep shooting.
 
Opps, Doc, I forgot, you were off the right, not left, so maybe your variance is not linear because you corrected some of the error out of it?

Were you making sure your reticle was aligned (or parallel) to your plumb-line when you shot?

If you do that your variance will be linear.
 
Its interesting to me that the POI shift is the same no matter how how you dial the elevation. If the bottom is your zero, it looks like your gun was shooting a little right to begin with. Your elevation seems like it is tracking spot on.
I was a half inch right at 0, but shouldn't I have been half inch right at 20 & 30 MOA also If it was tracking properly? It's a weird deal. I'm going to try some things today. Will report back.
 
So I have a Leupold VX6 on my CA 6.5 PRC. Rifle shoots really well, I've got a load worked up that is consistent and I'm feeling good about this fall until the tall target test. When I dial up, I get a 1.5-2" shift to the right. I ran the test 4 times. Made sure the target was plumb with a level, used levels to mount the scope, and even tried rotating the scope counter clockwise (since the shift was to the right). Nothing has worked. No matter what I try, when I dial up, I get a POI shift to the right. I know there are a lot of things that can cause this. I'm using Talley one piece rings for the mount. I've remounted the scope twice. I've got a NF I'm going to put on it to see if it is the scope or the mounts, or the receiver. Anyone have any other suggestions? Would a bore sighting tool show the discrepancy?? I got the scope from Holland's with his reticle in it. I'm going to call them on Monday to see what they have to say. Is it possible I just have a bad scope?? Thanks.
Glenn
My HD6 also has this issue. However I discovered that if you work the turrets back and fourth their full range a few times and then try your tall test again and it worked like it should. Don't know for how long though 🤠
 
Opps, Doc, I forgot, you were off the right, not left, so maybe your variance is not linear because you corrected some of the error out of it?

Were you making sure your reticle was aligned (or parallel) to your plumb-line when you shot?

If you do that your variance will be linear.
I tried to watch that closely, so I think I was plumb. I'm going to move the Leupold to my Ruger PR and the NF that is on the RPR to the CA PRC and shoot them both. If I still get the jump to the right on the Leupold on a different rifle, it has to be the scope I would think. If the NF tracks to the right on the PRC, then it is probably a mount or rifle issue. I'm on a mission to get this figured out. Will post results later today.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 4 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top