300 Wthby load data issue.

Thank
The double radius doesn't behave like other shoulders for sure. Yeah, annealling is a must with why's. I've got hornady 257 wby brass fired 7 times that is still good from annealling. They would've all split by the 5th firing if I hadn't.
Thank you Canhunter35, all of your information is greatly appreciated. I had no idea about any of this.
 
If you have a Hornady case length gauge you can measure the shoulder behind the neck before and after resizing to see if the shoulder is moving on you. You can also try just neck sizing and see if that makes a difference as well.
I'm waiting on my case length gauge to get here. 7 more days.
 
My bet is on an incorrectly set SEATING die. If the body of the die is too low, it will hit the mouth of the case which will bulge the SHOULDER/BODY junction. This will keep your round from chambering. Quite a common reloaders mistake really.
 
Hey David, just one more question. Doesn't the full length sizer die shape the shoulder of the brass as well as the walls and neck? One of the shooters yesterday recommended a body die to bump the shoulder but I thought this was done with a full length sizer.
Yes it does. My procedure is to start the die off the shell holder and screw it down a bit at a time until it chambers easy. Now your die is set to the rifle. Then lock your lock ring and it will always be set. With the weatherby shoulder it is rare that the die will match the chamber. Dustycuss also makes a good point. When you seat bullets I put a case in the shellholder and extend the press ram to the top of the stroke. THEN screw your seating die into the press. Screw it down until it feels firm and then back it off a quarter of a turn. Set the lock ring when you have pressure on the die while seating and then lock your ring. That way the die will be true with the ram and centered.
 
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You could get some cerrosafe and do a cast of your chamber. It's quite easy to do, then you would have an imprint of your actual chamber you could measure off, as well as something to hand to Weatherby need you return it.
 
That's
Yes it does. My procedure is to start the die off the shell holder and screw it down a bit at a time until it chambers easy. Now your die is set to the rifle. Then lock your lock ring and it will always be set. With the weatherby shoulder it is rare that the die will match the chamber. Dustycuss also makes a good point. When you seat bullets I put a case in the shellholder and extend the press ram to the top of the stroke. THEN screw your seating die into the press. Screw it down until it feels firm and then back it off a quarter of a turn. Set the lock ring when you have pressure on the die while seating and then lock your ring. That way the die will be true with the ram and centered.
That's the way I set the die. Just finished watching a YouTube video for long range hunting and reloading and the gentleman said to run the press to the top until it made firm contact then add an eighth turn so it will calm over. I tried this with no primer or powder and the round chambers and the bolt locks with ease. Now I'm waiting for my modified case gauge and comparator to get it dialed in.
 
Watching...How did the factory shoot ... we have had similar problems with other rifles and cal, one in particular the bolt would not lock down with our reloads even when all specs were the same a factory ammo that worked and ejected perfectly... We gave up on that one..... GL
 
A Redding Type S sizer, Redding body die, or worse case a Redding small base die would likely solve you problem.

usually this problem is from min dimension chambers and max dimension sizers.
 
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