Building a barrel vise

I like the aluminum idea and switched the oak out for blocks of teak that I had from a boat project and found they seem to grab the barrel tighter and easier than the oak too. I will use some old lead pipe for next barrel as bushing material to see if the lead on barrel improves grip. But I just took off a Remington barrel that spun off easier that anyone could imagine using the teak so maybe don't fix something that isn't broken?
I usually just wrap the barrel with a piece of sheet rock tape, it protects the barrel and makes the jaws of the vise grip better.
 
FYI - hitch ball wrench is perfect size for the barrel vise nuts and you can put serious torque on nut with how big these wrenches (18-19" long) are and they are dirt cheap either at Walmart or Harbor Freight.

Links:
Harbor Freight Hitch Ball Wrench
Walmart Reese Hitch Ball Wrench
I have two different size nuts that I can use, both have the same 3/4-10 thread. One uses an 1 1/8" wrench, but the larger one take uses an 1 1/4" wrench. I was leaning towards using the larger nuts. You can clearly see the smaller nut on the right side.
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Okay, I made a bushing that has a .750" ID. I haven't split it yet, because I want to cut a taper in it for a sporter Remington barrel. I was wondering if anyone had an old shot out sporter Remington barrel that they didn't need, I would obviously pay the shipping. My plan is to mount the barrel between centers and use an indicator in the tool post to match the taper. Let me know, thanks.
 
The vise is done and a member on here (MNbogboy) was nice enough to send me a Remington sporter barrel. I was able to copy the taper off my Savage barrel and make a bushing. I realized that with my small lathe, my compound doesn't have enough travel to taper a 2" long bushing, it will only taper a 1 3/4" bushing. Not a big deal, because it's only with the tapered bushings, straight shanks I just bore accordingly. Here's my first bushing, tightens up really nice. Now I need to find a sturdy place to mount the vise. Thanks for all the help.
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Barrel vise, custom collet, .800 in block filler in 1885 receiver, packing tape to protect fin...jpg


I made a barrel vise from 2x2 steel blocks and make collets from 1.5" Aluminum round stock.
At first I used 1/2-13 bolts, but later moved up to 7/8-14 later.
 
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I made a barrel vise from 2x2 steel blocks and make collets from 1.5" Aluminum round stock.
At first I used 1/2-13 bolts, but later moved up to 7/8-14 later.
Looks good, how do you mount it to the bench? Also, what size slit do you put in the bushing, or is it split in half?
I just finished making a tapered bushing for a Remington sporter barrel.
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Looks good, how do you mount it to the bench? Also, what size slit do you put in the bushing, or is it split in half?


I use 7/8-14 threaded rod because I have it in 6' lengths for making dies.

The bench is a 2'x3' elevator table welded together with 1/2" plate steel weighs ~ 350 pounds. I got it home and into the shop from Boeing surplus with help from the castors on the bottom. The bottom 2x2 steel is bolted to through 1/2" holes in the table with washers and nuts below. I am guessing how I did that. The bottom block might be threaded on top with 7/8-14, and the bottom of the same holes are threaded 1/2-13.

I made an insert today, but it is a lapp for the 30mm bearing journal on a mini lathe spindle.
You can see the slit is a bandsaw blade width wide.
 
Okay, thanks. I'm sure I'm going to need maximum grip for a Remington barrel that's never been removed, I hear that can be very difficult.
 
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