What ever happened to the moly coating bullet rage?

budlight

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25 years ago or so I had a dry tumbler dedicated to dry moly, carnuba wax, and.... coating for bullets.

It was slick just like advertised. You actually had to go up a grain or two of powder to get the same chrono speeds. Cleaning the barrel wasn't a big deal it just looked messy. I don't have scientific proof, but it did seem to make my barrel burner rifles last longer before re barreling.

243 105 gr. Home moly coating.

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Hexagonal Boron Nitride happened. It is superior in every possible way. Molybdenum disulphide burns at something like 800 Fahrenheit. It gets way hotter than that in the tube. Hbn is a ceramic technically, and does not burn or undergo chemical change of any kind until temperatures exceeding the melting point of the steel in your barrel, it actually protects the barrel and greatly slows down throat erosion because of this. Moly is dirty to work with, makes a big old mess! HBN does not (though make sure not to breathe the dust in, as with any fine powder). Moly (and tungsten disulphide, another lubricant coating) is a sulfide which means it has an affinity for water and can even combine with it to make a mildly acidic result. Moisture and acid are no friend to your firearm! HBN has no such affinity for water binding, does not combine with water, and is not even remotely corrosive under any circumstance. moly sits on the surface of projectiles and barrels. Hbn, if proper particle size is used, actually impregnates the microscopic pores of the metal, bullets and barrel. Once applied you don't have to worry about sloughing it off. You don't have to see it for it to be there and do it's job.
 
I've just started using hbn this last year and love it. My best load to date accuracy wise is using this product. It does indeed seem to diminish the difference between point of impact from cold bore shots and those following. It does indeed seem to make the load much less sensitive to seating depth and bullet jump. 225 eld m, hbn treated, 300 win mag, Winchester brass, fed 215m primers. 79.0 grains of very compressed imr 8133. Seated to 3.56 oal if I recall, just a tad too long for the magazine. Don't care. Savage 111 long range hunter model (heavier barrel, muzzle brake, accustock and trigger). Runs around 2760 FPS, a little over 3700 foot pounds, nothing too wild but certainly full performance. This is the first load in the first rifle I've owned that will print one ragged hole groups at 100 yards consistently enough to not be "lucky that day" or a fluke.
 
Technically, the patented process is moly plating, not coating, because it impact plates the moly into the bullet's jacket, vs Ms Moly and the the other faux "coatings" that tried to jump on the band wagon.

It hasn't gone anywhere here......I've been moly plating everything since Neco came out with their kit, and see absolutely no reason to stop.

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It hasn't gone anywhere here......I've been moly plating everything since Neco came out with their kit, and see absolutely no reason to stop.

Same here. Jumped in when the craze first started, never had an issue, developed my own method with what I had handy, still using the same method. Still no issues, easy clean barrels.
 


Very informative video

I did the whole molly thing years ago and abandoned it for the reasons mentioned, but this HBn has peaked my interest. I live in central NC and don't have a lot of places to shoot so I shoot when I can and what I can. I load up more rounds than I need and they may sit on the shelf for a while so cold weld is always a concern for me and this seems like it will be worth the effort if it will eliminate that.
 
A novice chemist can write the reaction equation when the disulphide of Molybdenum disulphide under heat and pressure (there may be heat and pressure in your barrel, there certainly is in mine), is left in humid air. Can you say sulfuric acid? Look around your lead - sulfuric acid battery under the hood and tell me what could go wrong inside your barrel?

I have over a decade of shooting HBN. No naked bullets. Never.
 

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I have moly'd for 25 years now and have had no ill effects like some people claim to have had.

I haven't lived in a humid area, I made sure I understood the moly process and made sure I knew what I was doing before I used moly.
 
I think moly coating went the way of the Dodo bird because of the mess. I never jumped on the bandwagon for that reason.

Moly is also hygroscopic - absorbs water. I read that later. I had seen some Sierra coated bullets and my fingers were black.
 
I have used my own Moly treatment since 1990 with liquid Moly I purchased from JC Whitney. Then Ms. Moly came out. I still use today without issues. Over 500 rounds fired in PD town without a major barrel cleaning just chamber. I shoot a 22-243AI at 3600 fps with 75 gr. A-Max pills and have little to no carbon fouling ever with Moly. My friends use Boron Nitride coating in 6.5 x 284 running 140 pills and they both have crazy amounts of carbon fouling............All custom Savage rifle builds. I Use Moly bullets in my 454 Casull Raging Bull and all my rifles .223, 22-250, 22-250 AI, 6mmbr, .243, .308, .308 Baer Magnum, 45-70 all without issues...........................Note most barrels are SS, Chrome Molly barrels need closer attention with Moly if water is present.
3200 rounds shot through my 22-243 AI and it still shoots. First barrel without Moly lasted 1643 rounds with degrading accuracy until keyholes.......................Nothing like a Silver Gray vapor trail out to 600 yds at 4800 fps at muzzle.
 
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