300 RUM Advice.....

O'swommie

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Dec 28, 2017
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Wanting to finally get this going, to reload for it. Its had about 82 factory rounds down the tube, broke in right. I have been gathering equipment here and there , Have dies, brass a mix of HMS, REM and new Nosler, CCI Mag primers and Berger VLD 210's for hunting. Any brass not shot in my rifle will be full length sized, just want to neck size the ones I've shot. A modified Hornady case and OAL gauge for it. MY die set includes a comp. bullet seater. I don't wanna spend a fortune on presses but would like to set up to deprime , full length size and neck size on different equipment if that makes sense. Get a hand held primer for priming. wanting to go with H1000 for the powder. Texas is warm 9 months outta the year so is that a good choice ? Is the Lee equipment decent as I doubt I'll do more than a hundred or so loads developing my load ? Any help or advice is appreciated men. Thanks
 
No matter what reloading equipment you decide on, your results will more likely than not be disappointing if you try to use different brands of brass at the same time. The internal volume varies with each manufacturer - even with the same caliber. Focus on just one brand of brass.

Run-out seems to be less when a co-ax press is used, but any good press will do fine. Just make sure the press can handle the length of the 300 RUM. That means at least 4" of 'throw' or clearance from the top of the shell holder to the bottom of the die when the arm is at rest.

Everything else you mention should work well.
 
deprime and FL sizing happen on the same press, if you want to set up another press for neck sizing you could, but it's pretty easy to set up your die and just switch it out.
I think you'll find that most just set up a FL sizing die to bump the shoulder back about .002 every time and don't bother with neck sizing/ FL sizing when needed.
Do what you want by all means, but if you haven't explored bumping the shoulder, it's something you'll want to look into.
I'd run the norma brass, but either way, as mentioned, don't mix your brass.
The modified hornady case isn't the best way to go, but can get you in the ball park, I bought a couple when I started out, but have learned better ways, that's a bit off topic, just something to keep in mind.
H-1000 is a great choice, as is Retumbo. Don't get hung up on one powder/bullet combo before you get going, your gun might not like that. Lucky for you, there are plenty of great options if it doesn't.
Good luck with it.
 
Think about the 215 Berger Hybrid also. Absolutely devastating on game performance. We have used it on a bunch of elk. Never had one walk away from them.
The rest has been covered above, and I agree with them.
That's an option too. We don't have many elk here, but bet it would smack down on a hog which we have plenty of. are you getting better accuracy out of the 215's ?
 
In my 28" 1:10" .300RUM, I got great accuracy with 175 LRX, 210 HVLD, 210 SMK, 215 Hyb, 230 Hyb. But the 215 and 230s seem to just hammer game. Mine is strictly an elk rifle after having shot only one mule deer. In my opinion, too much gun for deer if a close shot presents itself. 183 yard shot was devastating on the offside shoulder of a quartering away buck.
 
In my 28" 1:10" .300RUM, I got great accuracy with 175 LRX, 210 HVLD, 210 SMK, 215 Hyb, 230 Hyb. But the 215 and 230s seem to just hammer game. Mine is strictly an elk rifle after having shot only one mule deer. In my opinion, too much gun for deer if a close shot presents itself. 183 yard shot was devastating on the offside shoulder of a quartering away buck.
Mine is a 26" 1:10 factory off the shelf rem PPS. From what I've read its better to get the powder right , then go for seating depth. Is it better to sight in at a 100 or use a 200 yard range when going for accuracy way out there ?
 
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