Headspace for off the shelf ammo - 6.5 creedmoor

Gauges are cheap. Why on earth would you not use them? With this many people here telling you it's a bad idea, its probably a bad idea. Just saying. With the possibility of being under SAMMI then there is a good chance your dies wont even touch the shoulder. We've run into that issue when we headspaced to absolute minimum or maybe even alittle tighter than what we should've been. Not to mention if you only use factory ammo, lot to lot consistency in the brass. I hope any new guys looking to do this on their own dont see this.
 
i got an idea for safety reason's just use the go/ no-go gauges, and headspace tight on the go gauge. all factory ammo will feed, and shoot fine.
Because there is only one type of ammo I want to shoot out of it. Why do a generic headspace when you can be in between the two gauges and STILL have it set for the ammo you want.
 
Gauges are cheap. Why on earth would you not use them? With this many people here telling you it's a bad idea, its probably a bad idea. Just saying. With the possibility of being under SAMMI then there is a good chance your dies wont even touch the shoulder. We've run into that issue when we headspaced to absolute minimum or maybe even alittle tighter than what we should've been. Not to mention if you only use factory ammo, lot to lot consistency in the brass. I hope any new guys looking to do this on their own dont see this.
You obviously didn't watch the video or read any of this.
 
Didn't think I'd get pushback for trying to point out you can be in safety parameters and still headspace for a specific ammo. I thought the few guys that had a problem would be responsible and grown up enough to ask for clarification before slamming the technique
 
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Today's range session at 200yds with match ammo.
 
The correct and only way to set the head space is to use a precision ground head space gauge. It is ok to check any kind of ammo to get a feel for where you are at, but when you get near the final chamber size, you need to switch to the head space gauge.

The 6.5 CM ammo has a tolerance of up to minus .004 thousandths smaller that the Minimum chamber dimension that could be .003 thousandths larger than the smallest SAMMI chamber dimension. So it is possible that you could be up to .007 thousandths off the chamber dimension based on the combination of the chamber and the ammo.

.007 thousandths over the SAMMI head space is normally the rejection amount for most head space. so using loaded cases for head space could get you a very loose fit and cause case head separation or at best shorten case life.

Sometimes the ammo can be to large to chamber in a SAMMI chamber that is cut with the correct head space because of factory quality control. And only using the correct head space gauge will prove this.

I know some smiths that use this method because they don't have the proper head space gauge, but they can't really tell you what the actual head space is. Most of the time they get away with it but many times you will find that cases fired in these chambers will not chamber in other SAMMI chambers unless they are first sized down until they fit.

The master smith that taught me what little I know always said "OK or close was not in his vocabulary and short cuts and time saving tricks only added time and trouble in the long run" (Quote)

Just the way I was taught

J E CUSTOM
 
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So it wasn't correct for me to check both the go and nogo then headspace as close as possible to the ammo I was going to use within those parameters?

Saami allows for .010" headspace variation on their chamber specs. Most manufacturers build their go nogo gauges with .004-.006" variation. Why is that? Saami lists 1.541-1.551 for the headspace on a 6.5cm.
 
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If anything, my (his) method is even more accurate because it is in the saami parameters AND snug with the ammo that is being used. I'll post the first 40 shots. Keep in mind, it's a light weight 6.5 cm with a Rem synthetic stock.
 
Good to see that you changed the video yesterday. That's how most of us do it. Use both the gauges and verify with ammo. It good to see it done without shortcuts like the first video you had posted.
Thanks for clarifying. There are many "new comers" that often look for shortcuts to save a few bucks and the shortcuts get them lost.
 
Good to see that you changed the video yesterday. That's how most of us do it. Use both the gauges and verify with ammo. It good to see it done without shortcuts like the first video you had posted.
Thanks for clarifying. There are many "new comers" that often look for shortcuts to save a few bucks and the shortcuts get them lost.
I changed it to a full video that showed everything. Not worth my time to make a long video since I got mainly grief from members who would rather try to put others down than ask questions to clarify
 
I think your being a little thin skinned, a couple of the guys who have responded are extremely excellent smiths, the kind of guys you look back on the advice they've given years down the road and you see the wisdom. You gotta realize we all know this and have done it and had it back fire with a customer, I think that is the main push back is from guys with far more experience in the back fires!!
You likely already have some goober who is completely incompetent referencing your video on best practices for head spacing his mosin diy sniper build, there is a reason to use such a method, verify it is in spec and rally it BUT to give it the pro gunsmith method of approval put you into bad waters with the world wide web!!
I don't own a no go gauge, see no point when the go gauge and an actual measurements will tell you exact headspace not a range.
 
BG, I appreciate your dialogue, unlike some of the others. Advice is only as good as the facts behind it. The guys that said this is wrong, are close minded at best. Just like the video I posted, where he describes it more clearly than I did, it is more precise to do this method than to throw in a go and nogo. In the saami world we have .010" for goodness sakes! And these clowns want to say I'm unsafe or dont know what I'm doing when I am placing it about .001-.002 past the go. I dont need advice from guys like that and I question if they are "excellent smiths". Just the way they responded shows me how unprofessional they are and I would NEVER send them business. If I disagree with a method, I ask the person because I'm probably missing something. These guys want to discount anything that doesnt come from their lips to make themselves seem relevant. Anyone with a shred of common sense can see that.
Again, thank you for the dialogue. I am officially done venting. Where do I send the check for the thereapy session? :)
 
I do own No-Go gauges. I depend on the GO and a piece of steel shim stock and my depth mics to tell me exactly where I am at. But I can always say, Yes! I did check it with both the Go and the No-Go gauges. At $30-$35 each, it is cheap insurance to avoid a disagreement with a customer. There are days where you can run yourself ragged trying to explain something , where as showing them takes little time. The second thing I do when a rifle comes in with 'problems' is to use the gauges. (The first thing is to check and see for myself that it's not loaded !)
 
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