Do barrel cooling fans work (chamber chiller)?

[Bigeclipse]

I don't do a ton of reloading or shooting but it is pretty annoying to go to the range and shoot my cold bore shot and then waiting 20+minutes to do another coldish bore shot or when shooting for groups with light contour rifles I shoot 3-5 rounds and then have to wait 15 minutes to shoot again. Yes I bring other rifles but it would be nice to try and cut that time down a bit. Does the chamber chiller device actually work? Thanks!

 

[keithcandler]

There is a better and much quicker way to cool a barrel. We have been using water down the bore to cool our barrels since 1987, finest benchrest, custom barrels, and chrome moly barrels with no adverse effects. The process from start to finish takes 3 minutes.

Takes about 6 oz of water to cool a barrel.

Water down the barrel has been used for a very long time, and the idea really turns some people off. This was designed by a real Rocket Scientist friend of mine that was head engineer for Rockwell.

Couple of key things to remember about cooling with water:

a. steel has to get to 850* before cooling with water would warp the steel. Barrel
temps we get while shooting never gets to 185*, so stating that warping the barrel
cooling with water is ill informed.

b. using a tight fitting punch type of jag with good thick flannel patches, there is
no water left in the barrel. IF there was water left in the barrel, there are
hot gases around 3000* that proceed the bullet down the barrel that would
instantly vaporize any micro molecules of water. Navy Seals and Marine
Recon come out of the water ready to shoot their M4's. So, making statments like
"water does not compress", once again is ill informed in how it applies to this
application.

c. pushing the carbon out of the barrel allows for longer shooting strings

d. out of habit I pushed an oily patch down the bore on chrome moly barrels, Rem
Varmint, Rem 788's, etc at the end of the shooting session. I have no rust in any
of my chrome moly barrels, 7 Mags, 270's, etc

Here is a picture of a Cleaning rod guide, pepsi bottle, and an oil can spout
available from Wally World and most parts stores at a cost of around $3.50

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Tight fit between the oil can spout and bore guide keeps any water from escaping

[/URL]

[.IMG]https://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q489/ackleyman/water cooler 005.jpg[/IMG]

[/URL]

[/URL]

You need:

a. Cleaning rod
b. punch type of jag and flannel patches which will give a good tight fit
c. something to clean the chamber, I use a pistol cleaning rod, pistol bronze bristle brush, large patch
d. oil can adaptor
e. bore guide
f. some type of bottle to hold the water, even 2 liter bottles work. Water used
does not have to be cold

We used this method when shooting p. dogs and shooting in the Summer months when barrels never really cool off.

We used to carry 6 guns each when shooting p. dogs and rotated the rifles to allow the barrels to cool. The problem was that the barrels did not cool when the temps were 90* or higher.

I have explained this method to many, and it never ceases me as to how people are creatures of habit, never entertaining new ideas. Once a person has seen this procedure in person, they are simply dumbfounded at how fast and efficient the system works. I usually demonstrate the procedure in a very nice benchrest rifle or a custom hunting rifle.

I have this Hawkeye to examine barrels with

[/URL]

 

[Wedgy]

Chamber Chiiller blows about 4x more air the little yellow Barrel Cool and is better with batteries as it can use a rechargeable pack while the BC uses CR123 batteries. A rechargeable air mattress pump works but is noisy and blows more air than you need.

 

[NeoConShooter]

Can't wait to try it! I used to bring 12-15 guns to my friend's ranch to shoot P-Dogs. The only guns that I did not care if they got hot were 3 M-14s! The Mil-spec BBLs are both chrome and Stellite lined and seem to be immune to the heat if I trade guns after every mag. Counting .22s, we shot 10-12,000 rounds in a long week end.

 

[Dosh]

Used my homemade air pump barrel cooler Monday to cool my 30/378. Does what I need here on the Az desert.

 

[coop2564]

I use my truck AC close all the vents accept one and hold barrel end into that vent with chamber open and then put my hand around it and the vent to force the air thru the barrel, takes about 90 seconds to get it colder than air temp.

 

[milo-2]

This thing works, moves a fair amount of air, helps if you pull the filter too.
I bought one of the little yellow barrel cool, this 5 times better, IMO.
https://magnetospeed.com/products/riflekuhl

 

[atkins0331]

There is a better and much quicker way to cool a barrel. We have been using water down the bore to cool our barrels since 1987, finest benchrest, custom barrels, and chrome moly barrels with no adverse effects. The process from start to finish takes 3 minutes.

Takes about 6 oz of water to cool a barrel.

Water down the barrel has been used for a very long time, and the idea really turns some people off. This was designed by a real Rocket Scientist friend of mine that was head engineer for Rockwell.

Couple of key things to remember about cooling with water:

a. steel has to get to 850* before cooling with water would warp the steel. Barrel
temps we get while shooting never gets to 185*, so stating that warping the barrel
cooling with water is ill informed.

b. using a tight fitting punch type of jag with good thick flannel patches, there is
no water left in the barrel. IF there was water left in the barrel, there are
hot gases around 3000* that proceed the bullet down the barrel that would
instantly vaporize any micro molecules of water. Navy Seals and Marine
Recon come out of the water ready to shoot their M4's. So, making statments like
"water does not compress", once again is ill informed in how it applies to this
application.

c. pushing the carbon out of the barrel allows for longer shooting strings

d. out of habit I pushed an oily patch down the bore on chrome moly barrels, Rem
Varmint, Rem 788's, etc at the end of the shooting session. I have no rust in any
of my chrome moly barrels, 7 Mags, 270's, etc

Here is a picture of a Cleaning rod guide, pepsi bottle, and an oil can spout
available from Wally World and most parts stores at a cost of around $3.50

[/URL]

Tight fit between the oil can spout and bore guide keeps any water from escaping

[/URL]

[.IMG]https://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q489/ackleyman/water cooler 005.jpg[/IMG]

[/URL]

[/URL]

You need:

a. Cleaning rod
b. punch type of jag and flannel patches which will give a good tight fit
c. something to clean the chamber, I use a pistol cleaning rod, pistol bronze bristle brush, large patch
d. oil can adaptor
e. bore guide
f. some type of bottle to hold the water, even 2 liter bottles work. Water used
does not have to be cold

We used this method when shooting p. dogs and shooting in the Summer months when barrels never really cool off.

We used to carry 6 guns each when shooting p. dogs and rotated the rifles to allow the barrels to cool. The problem was that the barrels did not cool when the temps were 90* or higher.

I have explained this method to many, and it never ceases me as to how people are creatures of habit, never entertaining new ideas. Once a person has seen this procedure in person, they are simply dumbfounded at how fast and efficient the system works. I usually demonstrate the procedure in a very nice benchrest rifle or a custom hunting rifle.

I have this Hawkeye to examine barrels with

[/URL]

Do you plug the barrel or just let it run out the muzzle?

 

[Joe ziz]

I use a battery powered air mattress pump with a 12" piece of small garden hose. Stick it in the chamber and turn it on, works like a charm.

 

[sea2summit]

After in started hearing about these things this spring so I tried sticking my Milwaukee cordless ship vac on the end of my suppressor. Seemed to make a big difference in cool down time using my laser thermal thermometer thing. Got the riflekuhl and I must say it makes a huge difference getting the suppressor down to temp. I don't usually cool it all the way to cold bore temp but cool enough the mirages don't mess up the sight picture for the next string.

 

[Ingwe]

To answer your question I have the yellow BC and it works pretty well...nothing dramatic though.
Cools barrel better than nothing but not as fast as I hoped. When it's on I can barely feel hot air coming out of barrel

FWIW I think that Keith is on to something in the above

 

[SidecarFlip]

Back when I built machine guns (I have the license btw), I built an MG42 sub gun from a machinable kit from DP Arms for a customer (he was a Class 3 C&R collector and the MG 42 qualifies as a C&R weapon).

Interestingly, the MG 42 (Nicknamed 'Hitler's Buzz Saw' because the rate of fire unmodified makes the sub gun sound like a chainsaw with no muffler) comes with 2 barrels. Unlike a Browning, it has an air cooled tube (not running in water for cooling). The MG42 has 2 barrels and a unique dovetail barrel mount and hinged fore stock, so you can remove a hot barrel and insert a cool barrel, the job of the gunner's mate. Typically, to cool a hot barrel, troops would take the hot one off the weapon (after unpinning the fore stock and swinging it out of the way and toss the hot tube in a creek to cool it off or a bucket of water. That was SOP wth them.

8MM Mauser belt fed across the top of the action, rate of fire (unmodofed) was about 1100 rounds per minute. If you lightened the Mauser double claw extractor, you could reliably attain a 1500 RPM cycle rate.

Cooling hot tubes has been around for ages.

 

[sedancowboy]

Here is what I use. $20 from the SW store. Added a piece of 5/8" Tubing that fits perfectly in the bolt raceway. No need to remove the bolt as in the pic.

 

[fightthenoise]

I've got the unit that Magnetospeed makes. I've done some tests using one of those IR thermometers and honestly I can't tell if it's cooling much. I find it helps to put a wet paper towel over the barrel during rest periods