belted cartridges

Yes, that's how you properly handle belted cases. Neck-size until you get a sticky chamber, then FL size a couple thousandths...Then back to neck-sizing. It also helps your brass last exponentially longer, by not work-hardening it as much. I use the same method on my non-belted cartridges, too.

Reloading book specs are a CYA lawyer-proof guideline, not the God's honest truth. I didn't have anyone to teach me how to do all this reloading stuff, I had to teach myself. I had a lot of trial and error. This is why I try to help folks on here, so they don't have to go through all the same stuff I did.

Thanks, I guess my point is only that I think because a lot of people here know how to do it they speak as if it's foolproof. However, for people that are learning or go by the books they very well may run into problems(at least a little quicker), and acting like those hang ups don't exist seems disingenuous.

This is good to know, I am not an experienced reloader and I am building a 300 win mag right now that will be my first adventure into reloading belts.

You heard it right, not a PRC.... a boring old win mag;)
 
Thanks, I guess my point is only that I think because a lot of people here know how to do it they speak as if it's foolproof. However, for people that are learning or go by the books they very well may run into problems(at least a little quicker), and acting like those hang ups don't exist seems disingenuous.

This is good to know, I am not an experienced reloader and I am building a 300 win mag right now that will be my first adventure into reloading belts.

You heard it right, not a PRC.... a boring old win mag;)
As much as I don't care for the .300WM (even though I own one), I still have more respect for OG-cartridge shooters, than people who have to always be on the cutting-edge of the next hipster trend.
 
They don't know what they're talking about, or don't know how to properly resize belted cases, or they have cheap junky dies. They're regurgitating some mindless drivel that someone once spewed onto the interwebz, and now it's gone mainstream stupid-matrix.
Good mornin' Muddy.... don't hold back man...just say what's on your mind! Lol
 
Please explain to me what people are talking about when they talk about potential problems with belted cartridges.

I have 7RM and have a 6.5 RM that's shot out....I'd like to be better informed before I build another 6.5 RM,
I have been shooting the Remington 700 in 7 mag since 78, never knew there was a problem with belted magnums until the internet came out and pronounced a problem with belts.

I have had MANY rem 700's, BARs, Savage, and Browning A bolts.

I would highly suggest that you get a custom 7 Mag barrel installed in a 8.5" twist and enjoy the 180g bullets with Retumbo, H1000, and R#33.
 
I have never had a belted magnum case separation. I use hornady comparators and only bump the shoulder 0.002" after firing.

I however have a Mauser 3000 that was rebarreled to 264WM in the 1980's. This rifle with anything more than moderate loads would have limited primary extraction and reloaded cartridges would be difficult to re-insert into the chamber. This was with Winchester white bag brass and ANY reloads. I have shot factory loads that the shoulder moved 0.030" foreword and the brass swelled just in front of the belt.

This could be an out of spec chamber but with 120 sierra pro hunter's it's the most accurate rifle I own; shooting 0.2"-0.5" at 100yds. This rifle is also the most frustrating rifle I own and will be rebarreled soon due to the difficulties I've had with reloading for it. I provide this information for anecdote only not to say that out of spec chambers are to blame or that belted brass is inherently flawed.
 
For the sake of discussion and no I'm not being argumentative...:D

The belts on some case designs are from over a century ago when the H&H cases debuted in Africa. Holland designed the cases so they would slip in and out of the double rifles easily by using a very minor angle on the shoulder of the case. The angle was such that there was not a positive headspace. The belt was added for positive headspace. The rest is history including the term "belted magnum" as an indicator of strength and power...

Fast forward. Many shooters shift the headspace on belted magnums to the shoulder thereby eliminating the belt as any influence. There has also been an influx of beltless cases in larger capacities hitting the market.

300/338 Norma Mag
338 Lapua Mag
300 PRC
6.5 PRC (for the original Poster...)
others

Many of us can also turn the belts off of belted mags allowing the headspace to shift to the shoulder. A new HS gauge is required.

I personally have no gripe against belted cartridge since they make up a nice percentage of my work. But I also accept the newer crop of non-belted magnums as being suitable substitutes for the belted variety. :)
In order to turn the belt off, would you not need the chamber recut mirroring such? New reamer?
 
I've never had a issue with the 7mm rem mag. Just dont over size the crap out of it! Get yourself a guage that measures you're headspace, bump .002-.003 and you'll be just fine.

I'm in total agreement with this. Been loading belted cases for over 40 years. My first cartridges were a 375H&H, 300H&H, and a 458WM. Head spacing off the shoulder with the H&H's seemed to be less critical(obviously non-existent with the 458WM). Quickly figured out with a new 300WM to set my dye to headspace off the shoulder(within .002") and belt simultaneously. I have never had an issue with any of theses cartridges.
 
Please explain to me what people are talking about when they talk about potential problems with belted cartridges.

I have 7RM and have a 6.5 RM that's shot out....I'd like to be better informed before I build another 6.5 RM,
I've been shooting and re-loading for belted magnums (.257 Wby, 7mm Rem, 300Wby) for years, and have shot some pokey loads. Agree with the answers on the first page - re-size carefully and it's not a problem. Yes they were / are 'cosmetic' on cases that have enough shoulder to headspace; but the proof is there, all three of those calibres continue to perform to this day. If you like the calibre - shoot it! There is always someone who will tell you why not, a lot of the time that reason is unfounded and based on hearsay.
 
Thanks, I guess my point is only that I think because a lot of people here know how to do it they speak as if it's foolproof. However, for people that are learning or go by the books they very well may run into problems(at least a little quicker), and acting like those hang ups don't exist seems disingenuous.

This is good to know, I am not an experienced reloader and I am building a 300 win mag right now that will be my first adventure into reloading belts.

You heard it right, not a PRC.... a boring old win mag;)
Good on you! Welcome to the dark side !
 
I had a friend who brought a box of .300 Win Mag cases down the gun club;
they were all split above the belt. He asked us what is wrong. Simple to you guys,
but not to him. He was full length sizing every time and trimming away each time
he shot. If you don't know that's the kind of thing that happens.
Zeke
 
This is probably the top issue I see, chamber specs may be a small part, brass, sizing method maybe but I've seen it happen so many times, some of the best reloaders and shooter all of the sudden have to scrap all their brass OR get a Willis collet die, if there wasn't a possible issue no one would be making a living making a die to fix it!!
 
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