Mil dot reticle?

I find a mil system reticle to be less cluttered than moa. Memorizing mil clicks for various yardages is also easier. Usually less rotations of the dial on a mil system. Personally, I find the "dot" of a mil dot system to be messy in the sight picture. I prefer hash marks of some type.

Moa is easier to convert to inches at various yardages. One big disadvantage of the mil system is that Nightforce and Leopold pretty much don't offer them, with a very few exceptions.

I prefer a mil system.
 
I don't generally use reticles for any type of measuring maybe a windage hold every now and again but could probably count the number of times I've done that on one hand. I know I don't like a center dot though which some of them have, not sure if all do though? Just curious as I found a killer deal on a scope but it has the mil dot reticle with moa turrets. As someone who doesn't really measure and use the reticles for their intended use I didn't know if I would even notice the conflict being that I'm using the moa turrets that I'm familiar with.
 
You could use the scope like you've done in the past. Then if you got into a situation to take longer shots you could begin to use the information afforded by a ranging reticle.

Since a original mil-dot reticle is less desirable these days and the turrets are moa while the reticle is mild, you should be able to buy this deeply discounted.
 
IMO with the new XMAS mil tree reticles, mil dots is 20 years past its time. Loved them in the 80s and 90s, but now old school. Do not buy them. The Xmas tree reticles will do way more than the mil dots and more accurately and quicker. Simple fact. Let the hate begin.
 
Unless you have a good reliable rangefinder go with the mildot system. Sure, you have to know the size of the object being ranged but so what. I've asked dozens of hunter/shooters for years to guesstimate the distance to near/far objects and MOST fail to guess reasonably close to the actual distance. (I preranged objects prior to the question) The math for using the mil system does NOT require a computer but does require a simple forumla. It does require practice (not much) using the formula and the ability to hold very still on the object being ranged. I've done it LOTS (ranged targets) and I find the hardest part is being able t#o hold still on the target to get the #of mils spaced. If you can multiply and divide using a pencil and paper, you can use the system. Oh ya, with practice you can also use the dots for holdover or windage very well but you do have to practice with your particular rifle and not rely to much on paper ballistics. MY OPINION is to get the mildot. In no way am I trying to disrespect other opinions or offend anyone, it's good to get as much info as possible, this is just my opinion.
 
You could use the scope like you've done in the past. Then if you got into a situation to take longer shots you could begin to use the information afforded by a ranging reticle.

Since a original mil-dot reticle is less desirable these days and the turrets are moa while the reticle is mild, you should be able to buy this deeply discounted.

So for almost $1k off on a scope with a mil reticle but has my familiar moa turret to dial with seems like a no brainer then. Especially with the fact that I don't use the reticule any way being that I have my top of the line rangefinder with me at all times. Is this pretty much a good assumption?
 
So for almost $1k off on a scope with a mil reticle but has my familiar moa turret to dial with seems like a no brainer then. Especially with the fact that I don't use the reticule any way being that I have my top of the line rangefinder with me at all times. Is this pretty much a good assumption?
For the way you use the scope it should be fine.
 
I think it really depends on what you are shooting, and how far you need to take a shot.

I have used a few different reticles, and like different reticles for different types of shooting.

On my centerfire hunting rifles, I don't like a lot of extra stuff. I hunt with rifles that can reach as far as I will shoot at game or fur. Rounds like my .223/.243/7-08/.280 or even .35 Whelen will shoot flat enough for the shots I will pull the trigger on. Even out to 350 yds, I can hold on the body with every one of them.

My .35 Remington and .30-30 don't need gadgets, nor do my .357/.44 carbines, they are fine as far as I would shoot them, 125, maybe 150yds.

My .22LR's need some help, as it's fun to shoot out to 150-200yds, and the extra aiming points are really handy for that. Same for the .223/.308 if shooting out to 600yds+.

This year I grabbed a Nikon 3X-9X BDC for my .77/22, which shoots with enough accuracy out to 175yds to utilize the extended range aiming points, on paper or clay targets, or even prairie dogs. It worked so well I put a 2X-7X BDC on my Savage BV. That has enough energy and accuracy to be effective on foxes out to 100yds with most of the HSHP ammo. With a laser range finder, foxes that sit and listen at 100yds, or circle and sit, are in big trouble in 2013-2014. The best fur is during snow time, and a double lung that runs 50-75yds is not a problem. No snow, no shot.

So, the extra lines are just busy for some work, but the other types definitely have a place in other applications. On any day, two shooters are likely to have different favorites for different reasons.
 
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