Colt45_13

Active Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2019
Messages
35
Location
Denver, CO
Ladies and Gentlemen,

This is my maiden voyage on LRH as a member, so please excuse me if I screw this up.

I need a winter project, and I want to play with a Savage rifle "build." I say "build" because I want to keep this somewhat simple and cheap, the main goal here is to get a rifle that is different, efficient, budget conscious, and to learn a little bit about gunsmithing. I won't bore you with how I got here, but long story short, I want to re-barrel a Savage rifle. The original intent was to re-barrel a Savage with a Shilen barrel chambered in 28 Nosler and ream the chamber/throat with the intent of firing the 195 grain Bergers. However, after TONS of research, I decided am not ready (skills/knowledge wise) for the length issues that arise with the 28 Nosler meshed with the 195 grain Bergers.

The plan now is to build a 300 WSM on a long action with the intent to fire 212 grain Hornady bullets. I believe I have checked most of my boxes, I am 100% sure I am missing a few, but I think what I have in my head right now will go BANG.

Ok, lets get to the actual question.

I have a few leads on donor rifles ranging from 270 Win, 30-06 sprg, 7mm Rem mag, and 300 Win Mag. My main question revolves around the magazine issues. The idea behind building the short mag on the LA is to be able to seat the 212 Hornady's at an O.A.L >3" while retaining the ability to mag feed. However, will I have to do any complicated magazine work to properly feed the short mag cartridges? I was thinking I will just have to change the follower (and the bolt face if I purchase a 270 Win, 30-06) am I wrong?

One of the rifles I am looking at purchasing is a top bolt release, but with a detachable mag (7mm RM). With regards to that particular rifle, what would I do to convert the detachable mag to 300 WSM, but still be a long action magazine (due to the desire to have the ability to mag feed a longer O.A.L than standard SA's)?

Should I target a model with a detachable mag? Or for this particular build would it be more simple to target a rifle with a hidden mag?

BTW, I am a hunter. The intent for this rifle is to be shot enough to become highly competent with the rifle, but most of this rifle's usage will be on my back or in my tent while hunting. The idea was to build a 300 WSM capable of firing 212 grain Hornady bullets at a MV of at least 2800 FPS (26" match Shilen barrel).

Thanks in advance for all of the help. I really, really appreciate it. Happy New Year everyone!

CTL

God Bless America. God Bless the 2nd Amendment. God Bless those that defend both!
 
I can't help you but, those are great questions. I will be anxiously lurking for the answers... Out of curiosity, are you excluding the 300wm to avoid the belted cartridge? Also, a friend of mine loves his 300um if you are considering a far reaching 300 cal. Grouse is selling a 300um savage stainless for a pretty good price-- just something I want but would not get to for a while so I can't do it.. Good luck and let us know how it goes!!
 
I can't help you but, those are great questions. I will be anxiously lurking for the answers... Out of curiosity, are you excluding the 300wm to avoid the belted cartridge? Also, a friend of mine loves his 300um if you are considering a far reaching 300 cal. Grouse is selling a 300um savage stainless for a pretty good price-- just something I want but would not get to for a while so I can't do it.. Good luck and let us know how it goes!!
MFK,
I steered clear of the 300 WM mostly due to me being scared of encountering length issues with the magnums mag feeding big long bullets. However, I will admit... I bet the 300 WM would have enough clearance to mag feed. I guess my other influence was that I currently own a 300 WSM and some brass.
 
For the wsm or nosler chambers you should youse a large shank action. As far as I know the target actions short mag actions and rum's were all the large shank.

+1 for using grouse's rum for a start https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/savage-300-rum.212437/

Rumup,

Great comment, I have researched this a bit, but need a little more info. Can I only use a large shank action for the WSM build? I.e. if I buy a 7mm, 30-06, 270, 300 am I dead in the water regarding a WSM build?

Thanks,
CTL
 
MFK,
I steered clear of the 300 WM mostly due to me being scared of encountering length issues with the magnums mag feeding big long bullets. However, I will admit... I bet the 300 WM would have enough clearance to mag feed. I guess my other influence was that I currently own a 300 WSM and some brass.
I have neither a 300wm or 300wsm, but I heard that there is more case capacity in the 300wm for longer bullets? Would there be adequate capacity for full powder dose's and 215 projectiles?
 
Can I only use a large shank action for the WSM build?
First Savage rifle in 300WSM that I bought was small shank, control round feed and hinged floor plate. They went to large shank shortly after I got mine. You can use a small shank barrel in WSM but the problem is finding one....most are in large shank.
 
I have neither a 300wm or 300wsm, but I heard that there is more case capacity in the 300wm for longer bullets? Would there be adequate capacity for full powder dose's and 215 projectiles?

MFK,

I spent a lot of time attempting to answer the exact question you just asked. I believe the answer to your question is no, the 300 WSM (Short Action) cannot compete with the 300 WM when loading longer, heavier bullets. However, the caveat here is the short action. I believe if I build the 300 WSM on the long action which allows me to seat the bullets out fairly long, then I will be able to increase my powder charge to equal the performance of the 300 WM, and possibly even surpass the 300 WM (according to conversations with Hornady).

CTL
 
MFK,

I spent a lot of time attempting to answer the exact question you just asked. I believe the answer to your question is no, the 300 WSM (Short Action) cannot compete with the 300 WM when loading longer, heavier bullets. However, the caveat here is the short action. I believe if I build the 300 WSM on the long action which allows me to seat the bullets out fairly long, then I will be able to increase my powder charge to equal the performance of the 300 WM, and possibly even surpass the 300 WM (according to conversations with Hornady).

CTL
Nice! That is good to hear.
 
I don't think you'll outrun the WM with the WSM but you can come close and should have no issue making your goal of 2800 fps from a 200-215 boolet in a 26 inch barrel.

I like the idea of using a long action to remove any length issues. I personally would stay away from a factory DM. You may wish to go with an aftermarket or a hinged floor plate. With either of these, go with a center feed and adjust as required to feed the WSM round.

Sounds like a great idea and I look forward to seeing the results.

What's you plans for a stock? Trigger?

Having had two, I really like the Timney drop in replacement for the accutrigger. It's $95 well spent and easy as pie to install and tune.
 
You can build using a small shank with no issues, many RUMs an WSMs have been built on them.
I would use a Magnum case center feed rifle but I don't have one laying around to verify feeding with a long WSM, you don't need to change bolt head or firing pin if you start with a magnum.
I set up 300's for the 215 Berger seated at 3.2 overall length and in a 24 inch barrel they run 2900 fps with out top pressure. Pretty much in line with a 300 Win but runs better from shorter long actions.
 
Guys,

Y'all are giving me such great information, I cannot tell you how much I appreciate it.

bigngreen:

You referenced setting up some 300's with 215's that run about 2900 fps. Based on your O.A.L I assume you were referring to a 300 WSM? Or was it a SAUM?

Also, "I would use a magnum case center feed rifle...." Are you saying that maybe the 300 WSM cartridges would feed from the 7mm rifle I am looking at purchasing?

CTL
 
I don't think you'll outrun the WM with the WSM but you can come close and should have no issue making your goal of 2800 fps from a 200-215 boolet in a 26 inch barrel.

I like the idea of using a long action to remove any length issues. I personally would stay away from a factory DM. You may wish to go with an aftermarket or a hinged floor plate. With either of these, go with a center feed and adjust as required to feed the WSM round.

Sounds like a great idea and I look forward to seeing the results.

What's you plans for a stock? Trigger?

Having had two, I really like the Timney drop in replacement for the accutrigger. It's $95 well spent and easy as pie to install and tune.

Slick8,

I apologize, at this point I am a pretty dumb gunsmith (to put it lightly). Would you please elaborate on why you think I should stay away from a factory DM? Not doubting you, just want to understand.

With regards to your questions about the project. My plan is for this project is for it go develop in stages.

Stage 1: Procure donor rifle, have custom barrel build for my dummy rounds, install barrel, ensure gun cycles and generally functions, work up a load.
Stage 2: Next capital investment trigger upgrade. At that point I will likely message you and essentially do verbatim what you said. If you say that trigger setup is good, I am sold.
Stage 3: If I am liking the rifle and feel like it is worth more investment add: Stock, bottom metal, barrel/receiver coatings, stock dip, recoil reducer, ect.

Long story short, I am mostly focused on Stage 1 at the moment. Build a somewhat custom rifle that functions and shoots. I would not argue with any of you that say I am wrong on my thoughts here, I just do not have thousands to spend on this project at the moment; attempting to see how good of a rifle I can build for $800-$1000 (not including optics).

Thanks Everyone,

CTL

God Bless America. God Bless the 2nd Amendment. God Bless those that protect both!
 
Have you assembled or have access to the tools you will need? You will need a barrel nut wrench, some way to vice the barrel. Not saying you need a barrel vice but the old and the new barrel are going to have to be vised, you may or may not need an action wrench depending on how much locktite from the scope screw holes and other junk got in the barrel threads and you will need headspace gauges for your cartridge selection. When you order or buy your barrel make sure you can get a good not overly priced stock or the one you have as it may need inletting. I've found that each manufactures contours vary a little bit'. I would go ahead and replace the barrel nut with one that has been trued. I generally replace the recoil lug to one that is ground true and a bit more square. Both these items can be had very reasonably but will pay big dividends later. Under no circumstance use an AXIS as a donor. As far as later stock options either center feed or stagger feed will not cause you issues but if you intend to use a detachable box magazine or even if you want to keep that option open definitely go with a center feed. The receivers are milled out differently than a stagger feed. I don't know how much you know about SAVAGE rifles that's why I mention all this. If you already know all this then I apologize.
 
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