Brass sticking at all powder charges

86alaskan

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Joined
Jan 8, 2014
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Location
Central Missouri
So, I've recently taken delivery of my out west long range do it all rifle. It's a 338RUM built on the T/L Hunter action with a Benchmark 1-9.3 twist barrel at 28". I have been breaking in and testing loads with the 300gr SMK and ADG virgin brass. All brass was sized and chamfered prior to loading. I've been using IMR 8133 and 215M primers. So..... I ran the first ladder after break in and started at 87gr and ran up to 92gr. This is well below what IMR says is safe max. The problem is that, even at 87gr, the bolt lift is heavy and I'm having to whack to bolt handle to get it to release from the chamber. My primers are rounded and there are no ejector or extractor marks. When I deprime, the primers feel tight when they pop out.

where should I go with this? Maybe the head space is too tight? The fired brass does seem to scratches or ridges around the circumference after firing all along the case body. Could a rough chamber cause this? Should I have the smith take it back to diagnose? It was built by a very reputable and highly regarded gunsmith in Kansas City...
 
What are the chances of an action screw interfering with the bolt ? Had that happen to me. Different action, but still...
Didn't really feel it on closing cause its cocking. Color every thing with a sharpie then cycle the bolt. Inspect. Repeat as necessary. Worked for me.
 
The condition only happens after firing. I made up a couple dummy rounds to practice cycling, and the rifle feeds and cycles very smoothly, no hangup. The bummer at this point is I can't enjoy shooting it, and it's really **** accurate with all loads tested.
 
ITs neck clearance. Ask the smith what neck diameter is on the reamer. I love ADG brass, but just had this happen to a friend.
 
The fired brass does seem to scratches or ridges around the circumference after firing all along the case body. Could a rough chamber cause this? Should I have the smith take it back to diagnose? It was built by a very reputable and highly regarded gunsmith in Kansas City...
The scratches or ridges on the fired case could be chatter on the chamber from the final reamer. Sometimes a chip can get caught in the reamer and cause this. Pretty much know who you're talking about. Call your builder.
 
Had this on a new Mcgowen barrel. The fired brass would not go all the way into the seating die. Turned lout the base of the case near the rim was 4 thou oversized. Mcgowen made me a new barrel. Just another theory to check.

BW
 
The condition only happens after firing. I made up a couple dummy rounds to practice cycling, and the rifle feeds and cycles very smoothly, no hangup. The bummer at this point is I can't enjoy shooting it, and it's really **** accurate with all loads tested.
Did you DRY FIRE the dummy rounds or just cycle them without pulling the trigger? If you didn't dry fire, do it- it will potentially rule out possible issues with the bolt lugs and locking cam needing proper grease. I had this issue on one of my rifles a while back- cycled fine until you pulled the trigger even on an empty chamber, then got very heavy bolt lift. Thorough cleaning and then applying grease to the back side of the bolt lugs AND the cocking cam fixed the problem.
 
Dummy rounds can be fired and extracted normally. When fired, secondary extraction is very tight, initial bolt lift is heavier than normal but not unnecessarily so. I can cycle the handle all the way, but then the bolt is stuck to the point of having to hammer it back with a block of wood. IMR states between 88 and 96gr for 8133, I can't open the bolt at 87 or any higher. I stepped down that low to rule out brass volume and over pressure. Accuracy is high custom level across the entire ladder
 
Some of you guys seem to have missed this part...
"The fired brass does seem to scratches or ridges around the circumference after firing all along the case body."
Yep- I read that part too quickly and my eyes saw "Doesn't seem to have" and that's why I left my feedback. Seeing that now, my feedback still applies- clean the snot out of it and grease, etc. to test with a dummy round. That may clean out any debris still remaining from the build (which is another issue for another thread if that's the case).

If that doesn't work, yes, take it back to the smith because that's likely the source of the issue.
 
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