Any advise helpful!

[sam.krapf]

Hello all.


I am new to the forum and just getting into the idea of long range hunting. College guy on a budget. I am from Southern Idaho so I am wanting to be confident taking 300-500 yard shots for desert elk/mule deer. Most of my deer hunting so far has been in the 100-200 yard range so I haven't had any issues so now I am just wanting to extend my range.


I've slowly been building up my set up with a Ruger American 30-06. I was able to snag a 4x16-44 MOA Vortex Diamondback Tactical before they went on backorder. The hollow, light stock in the -06 was beating the crap out of me so I have added weight to the stock which took care of that problem. I also added a bipod. With a 165gr Sierra Game-Kings I shoot 1-1.5 inch groups with some under 1 inch on rare occasions, usually depending on how I'm doing on the particular day. So I have some questions about a few different things. I shoot good groups at 100, 200, 300 yards. Precision (acceptable for hunting imo) is fine, however accuracy is not. Know knowing theoretically at 200 yards my SGK drops 3.8 inches and at 300 yards it drops 13.8, I dial my elevation accordingly with a 100 yard zero as well as adjust parallax at each range so the reticle doesn't move on the target. This is with little wind. With each 100 yard increment my bullets impact farther to the right and up of my aiming point. About 2-3 inches at 200 yards and about 8-10 at 300.


So..

1. My scope was mounted and torqued level at the local gun shop. I have double checked it, so the scope to my knowledge is level so there shouldn't be cant. I do my best to make sure the scope is level at all times. However, does anyone have experience with the anti-cant bubble levels? Are they installed easy?
2. I have worked hard at developing better trigger control as that was an issue for me at one point. I have the trigger set as low as possible, 3lbs. Since I shoot good groups at 100 dead-on I have a hard time thinking its me pulling.
3. I have a known astigmatism in my right eye and I shoot right handed with a righty set up. Probably not ideal. I found this out after I purchased the rifle as I have always shot every gun right handed. Does anyone have experience with this? Could it have something to do with my POI being off to the right at longer ranges? Would it be worth making the switch if so?

Any input or constructive criticism would be appreciated. I'm sure I will have many more questions as time goes on as I am just a greenhorn when it comes to this. But hey, we all have to start somewhere. Thanks!

 

[joseph singleton]

Welcome ,there are a few guys in your area,(might get them one )..

 

[Hand Skills]

That's a whacky problem - first thing I would do is a 'box test' then a 'tall target test' to verify the mechanics of your scope are tracking properly.

If your scope passes both tests, this could become an interesting discussion. Until then, we are all just guessing.

 

[gohring3006]

Your rifle is not set up for long range. Everything is amplified as range increases.
I would say it's a number of things adding up to your problem.
Heavy creepy trigger.
Stock flex
Heavy recoil/management
And your load may not be right for extended range.
Etc.
Those are great average hunting rifles, but they are not long range hunting rifles.

 

[sam.krapf]

Your rifle is not set up for long range. Everything is amplified as range increases.
I would say it's a number of things adding up to your problem.
Heavy creepy trigger.
Stock flex
Heavy recoil/management
And your load may not be right for extended range.
Etc.
Those are great average hunting rifles, but they are not long range hunting rifles.

I am aware I'm not working with the highest quality rifle set-up. However is it unreasonable for me to think I can make a 300-500 yard shot?

 

[sam.krapf]

That's a whacky problem - first thing I would do is a 'box test' then a 'tall target test' to verify the mechanics of your scope are tracking properly.

If your scope passes both tests, this could become an interesting discussion. Until then, we are all just guessing.

Next time I am out I will definitely try this and let everyone know.

 

[gohring3006]

I am aware I'm not working with the highest quality rifle set-up. However is it unreasonable for me to think I can make a 300-500 yard shot?

You can, but don't expect sub Moa groups.

 

[sam.krapf]

I am aware I'm not working with the highest quality rifle set-up. However is it unreasonable for me to think I can make a 300-500 yard shot?

The frustrating think is that it is grouping well ~1 inch at 100, ~2

You can, but don't expect sub Moa groups.[/QU

You can, but don't expect sub Moa groups.

I won't ever expect consistent sub-moa groups at extended ranges with this rifle. I am wanting good, ethical shots where I am hitting vitals and knowing where the bullet is going generally.

 

[gohring3006]

The frustrating think is that it is grouping well ~1 inch at 100, ~2

It's a combination of all the factors involved. The stock is not good for a rifle/cartridge like a 30-06. Even though you added weight, it's being violently shoved, twisted and flexed every time you pull the trigger. You may not notice at 200 yards but farther out, those things really affect poi. That, with a pencil barrel that has a 30 cal hole in it, really whips with something like a 30-06. You can tune a rifle like that to shoot good enough, but you and it has to be on point.

 

[sam.krapf]

It's a combination of all the factors involved. The stock is not good for a rifle/cartridge like a 30-06. Even though you added weight, it's being violently shoved, twisted and flexed every time you pull the trigger. You may not notice at 200 yards but farther out, those things really affect poi. That, with a pencil barrel that has a 30 cal hole in it, really whips with something like a 30-06. You can tune a rifle like that to shoot good enough, but you and it has to be on point.

I have heard of people adding stiffening epoxies/bondo/etc to the forend to stiffen it up. I just assume this isn't were it would be flexing so it would be kind of point-less

 

[xsn10s]

I have astigmatism in both eyes, worse in my left eye due to an injury. but that hasn't affected my shooting. As long as you can see the sights/ reticle clearly it shouldn't be an issue. Most shops do their best to set up a scope level. But some scopes are not "level" between their reticle and their adjustments. so it could have a tracking issue. And lastly yes you could be "canting" your rifle, and at further distances you could be canting ever so slightly more. Hard to tell without being their.

 

[xsn10s]

Which reticle do you have on your vortex?

 

[sam.krapf]

Which reticle do you have on your vortex?

Which reticle do you have on your vortex?

EBR-2C MOA in FFP.

 

[xsn10s]

You can use that reticle to "Kentucky Windage" your shots or drops. Meaning instead of dialing in your drop for 200 yards, or 300 yards, or whatever distance you use your reticle for those distances. That will eliminate and problems with tracking in your dials.