What works the best to get rust out of the barrel? I soaked it over nite with wipeout and accelerator and the first patch come out black and some blue. Then the following patches had a brownish red tint to them I suspect this would be rust? I run a patch down with some kroil and got the brownish color again so I took a patch with jb and run it back and forth and it come out pretty nasty looking like that reddish brown color. Then I used butches bore shine to clean that out just trying different things and got the same thing the reddish brown tint on the patches. After I patched it back out I soaked a patch with kroil and run it through and just left it now it's been a week. What do you think my best option would be? Also tHe bolt face has some rust on it too I sprayed it with kroil also and let it sit over nite and some come off but it's still there.
Rust in and on guns?
- Thread starter zr600
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westcliffe01
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I guess any carbon steel barrel can rust if it is exposed to condensation , but what caliber is this rifle, since usually only very old or soviet block ammo is corrosive. The other thing to consider is how you prepare the weapon for storage ? If I know a rifle is expected to go into the safe for a long time, I will give the barrel a thorough cleaning and the bore a final patch with some synthetic oil and make sure the external surfaces are likewise lubed with a synthetic oil. Paste wax is more effective than oil but harder to apply.
I have had 2 rifles with a corroded bore, one was a yugoslavian SKS where the preservative never made it into the bore and it was likely stored for 50 years before I bought it. I got the free rust out but the pitting is there forever and that part of the barrel will foul with copper like crazy every time I shoot it. The other was an AR-15 that was chambered in 7.62x39 that I shot some corrosive Yugoslavian ammo in and it flash rusted in just a few days after shooting it. I saw the rust on the flash suppressor first, then found the bore was red too.
I used both a bronze bore brush and later a nylon bore brush and had to scrub the bore for several hours and wash it out with water and detergent to get the corrosive salts out. There was no pitting because the exposure was such a short time, but its likely that the wear of the barrel from scrubbing with polishing compound may be equivalent to a few thousand rounds.... Given that the 7.62x39 is not a particularly accurate cartridge to begin with and that rifle in particular was never better than a 2MOA rifle, there was no change in performance afterwards. Had it been a more accurate rifle, that might not have been the outcome.,
I think that the way the AR gas system works, it is a particularly bad match to corrosive ammo, since the corrosive gasses are directed to the inside of the bolt. The AK/SKS style gas system is easier to clean and most of the parts have a corrosion resistant coating to reduce the problem in the first place... In the meantime, I try to buy stainless weapons wherever possible since it provides some extra margin of protection, especially against condensation initiated corrosion since with the high humidity in the midwest that is a real problem with moving into and out of heated spaces every time you use the rifle.
I have had 2 rifles with a corroded bore, one was a yugoslavian SKS where the preservative never made it into the bore and it was likely stored for 50 years before I bought it. I got the free rust out but the pitting is there forever and that part of the barrel will foul with copper like crazy every time I shoot it. The other was an AR-15 that was chambered in 7.62x39 that I shot some corrosive Yugoslavian ammo in and it flash rusted in just a few days after shooting it. I saw the rust on the flash suppressor first, then found the bore was red too.
I used both a bronze bore brush and later a nylon bore brush and had to scrub the bore for several hours and wash it out with water and detergent to get the corrosive salts out. There was no pitting because the exposure was such a short time, but its likely that the wear of the barrel from scrubbing with polishing compound may be equivalent to a few thousand rounds.... Given that the 7.62x39 is not a particularly accurate cartridge to begin with and that rifle in particular was never better than a 2MOA rifle, there was no change in performance afterwards. Had it been a more accurate rifle, that might not have been the outcome.,
I think that the way the AR gas system works, it is a particularly bad match to corrosive ammo, since the corrosive gasses are directed to the inside of the bolt. The AK/SKS style gas system is easier to clean and most of the parts have a corrosion resistant coating to reduce the problem in the first place... In the meantime, I try to buy stainless weapons wherever possible since it provides some extra margin of protection, especially against condensation initiated corrosion since with the high humidity in the midwest that is a real problem with moving into and out of heated spaces every time you use the rifle.
Ok it's a 308 win savage 10. I was given this rifle for my wife. I have pondered rebarreling it too. I have the tools to do it barrel nut wrench action wrench and head space gauges for 308/243/260. Was maybe thinking a 7mm-08 or would a 260ai be better I do reload and don't have any dies yet.
Riflehunter1776
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Shoot it a bit and then try cleaning it again. Most likely you will find pits in the bore from the rust, even after you get all the active stuff out. If that bothers you, then sell it and buy a new one that you can take care of right from the start.
Where people make so many mistakes when cleaning a bore is they don't leave the solvent in the barrel long enough for it to work. They run a patch with solvent through the bore and then go right behind it with a clean patch and remove it and don't let it work. With rust you should soak a patch with Kroil oil and run it through the bore a couple times to get it good and soaked. Then let it set at least over night so the oil can get under the rust and stuff and dissolve it and loosen it. Hopefully the bore is not pitted. Kroil is the best penetrating oil I have ever seen. I tested it one time on a really solid rusted bolt that was running through a piece of plate steel with a solid rusted on nut on the other side. I put the plate in a vice with the bolt head up and nut side down. I put some Kroil oil around the bolt head and left it until the next morning. When I came back the next morning oil was dripping off the bottom of the bolt past the nut and I put a wrench on and the nut came right off. It will penetrate rust and dissolve it better than anything I have ever seen.
