Hexagonal Boron Nitride

Lube your case necks with Hornady Unique case resizing wax prior to seating your HBN coated bullets.
 
Make sure the necks are chamfered. I noticed with new Norma brass, the neck would scrape some copper and Hex off the the bearing surface. I use imperial dry neck lube on the neck prior to seating the hex coated bullet.
 
Has anyone else had similar neck welding issues? I was originally under the assumption that this worked like moly did to negate neck tension issues.
 
12valvetater said:
Has anyone else had similar neck welding issues? I was originally under the assumption that this worked like moly did to negate neck tension issues.
Click to expand...

Please explain. Are you having "welding" issues like uncoated bullets do with hBN coated bullets?
 
Glad this thread is alive I just ordered some fro tubes last week. Gonna use it on my 300blk and .458 socom. Not sure how it will work with my .25 cal as I shoot the combines tech bullets that are already coated with something. Kirby told me he does not recommend coating bullets until 100 rounds down the tube. Anyone else here about this or have thoughts. Just sucks as I'm buying turn key and kinda wanted it all set. So if I coat after 100 would change load and speed. Maybe I'll just have to add a bit more powder till I see the same speed as I did and hope the groups stay the same and pressure doesn't show.
 
idaho elk hunter said:
Hex Boron is actually going to enhance velocity. Due to reduced friction you will be able to load to higher velocities. The larger the bore the greater the return. Bulletcoatings.com is a great place to buy it and get SOME information. I have used it in just about every caliber, bullet, barrel there is. THERE ARE NO NEGATIVES. Much more efficient than the old MOLY. Clean the barrel and then clean it again. End up wiping it clean with alcohol and coat the bore with a solution of alcohol and hex. Tumble bullets with #4 lead shot, not BB,s. I do not care what anyone says on that. Use lead shot! You want to use a metal that is softer than the copper jacket...DUH. Who wants to deform the jacket of the bullet? Even if it is just a little? Imagine what steel can do to the ogive or the tip? DUH....Visit bulletcoatings.com and read up. I have posted on this forum on a lot of my findings on another thread.
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Using steel shot upto BB will not damage bullet jackets they just don't have the velocity or energy from within a tumbler to do that. From you post you don't know how to use MOs2 properly . I use tungsten balls to coat bullets and they have no detrimental effect at all infact the harder balls work better for MOs2 but lead shot could work ok for HBN as it's a very thin wash of a coating . Been coating bullets a very long time and people even pay me to coat their bullets because they know my system works well and produces a deep coating that does not come off on your hands and no wax to gum up the barrel . HBN is an easy thing to do and cleaner and does have positive effects and that may be a good reason to use it for many but it's not superior to MOs2 in load bearing ability and resisting fire cracking in the bore and has a better lamella structure . People who constantly cleaning out the moly are just destroying is protective lamella structure in the bore and they may as well shoot uncoated bullets.
 
I've been reading on this coating on this page and others. It seams like it's easy to add to the bullets and some say it likes heat when applying. Has anyone tried throwing the bottle in their cloths dryer with a full load of clothes? seems like it would do the trick. I plan on trying the coating later this fall after hunting season and just might try the poor mans tumbler.

Kris
 
Ua26fitter said:
I've been reading on this coating on this page and others. It seams like it's easy to add to the bullets and some say it likes heat when applying. Has anyone tried throwing the bottle in their cloths dryer with a full load of clothes? seems like it would do the trick. I plan on trying the coating later this fall after hunting season and just might try the poor mans tumbler.

Kris
Click to expand...
I used to use an incandescent light by my vibratory tumbler, it worked. I also heated them up in a 150° oven for 10 min, that worked also........

Now I fill my large pill bottle up to 50% - 75% full, add HBN and vibrate for an hour and a half with no heat. Can't tell the difference between hot tumbled and cold tumbled. The finished bullets look identical even under ×10 magnification.
 
tbrice23 said:
Now I fill my large pill bottle up to 50% - 75% full, add HBN and vibrate for an hour and a half with no heat. Can't tell the difference between hot tumbled and cold tumbled. The finished bullets look identical even under ×10 magnification.
Click to expand...
Good to hear that. I've pre-heated my bullets in 180F oven for 20 minutes prior to HBN coating. Have never had problems.
David Tubbs doesn't mention the need for heat, so I'm not surprised they'll take the HBN coating at room temps.
Perhaps the heat helps. Perhaps it's a false rumor. False rumors can propagate like wildfire on the internet Forums.
 
I was in a hurry one day and didn't have time to pre heat, so I vib. tumbled them anyway. They turned out perfect.
If I had never tried it without heat I'd still ( and probably always would) continue to heat them.
;)
 

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