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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
zeroing your scope
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<blockquote data-quote="MontanaRifleman" data-source="post: 381249" data-attributes="member: 11717"><p>Ward you make a good point. If you make a 1/2" error in your zero at 100 yds, that is the same as making 1/2 MOA error which would translate to 5" error at 1000yds. If you make a 1/2" error in your zero at 200 yds, that would be a 1/4 MOA error which translates to half the arc error at 100 yds. Another thing to consider is that some low drag bullets do not "go to sleep" by 100 yds which might throw off your zero estimation. My go to loads in my 300 RUM and 25-06 have an MV of 3400 fps and I zero them at 300 yds. That gives me a point blank range of close to 400 yds. At 400 yds they are dropping about 8 - 10" which is an easy (2 MOA) hold adjustment. At less than 3300 fps I would zero at 250 yds. To keep the high point of my trajectory at 3 1/2" or less. Zeroing as far as practical makes things a lot simpler in the field. Longer point blank range and less dialing or hold over farther out.</p><p> </p><p>A technique to fine tune your zero is to check it at a longer range. Lets' say you want a 200 yd zero (some bullets may not go to sleep yet at this range). Shoot a group at 200 for zero then shoot another group at let's say 500 yds to check your drop against your 200 yd zero. (This should be done after you have done some drop checks to confirm your velocity and BC.) If your data shows you should be 6 MOA and your actual drop is 6.5 MOA, then adjust your elevation zero by .5 MOA.</p><p> </p><p>For windage zero, I am considering zeroing at longer range to minimize the affect of coriolis and spin drift. If I zero my windage at let's say 800 yds, it may be off slightly at closer ranges (but not enough to matter) but should be very close at 1K plus.</p><p> </p><p>Just some things to think about.</p><p> </p><p>-Mark</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MontanaRifleman, post: 381249, member: 11717"] Ward you make a good point. If you make a 1/2" error in your zero at 100 yds, that is the same as making 1/2 MOA error which would translate to 5" error at 1000yds. If you make a 1/2" error in your zero at 200 yds, that would be a 1/4 MOA error which translates to half the arc error at 100 yds. Another thing to consider is that some low drag bullets do not "go to sleep" by 100 yds which might throw off your zero estimation. My go to loads in my 300 RUM and 25-06 have an MV of 3400 fps and I zero them at 300 yds. That gives me a point blank range of close to 400 yds. At 400 yds they are dropping about 8 - 10" which is an easy (2 MOA) hold adjustment. At less than 3300 fps I would zero at 250 yds. To keep the high point of my trajectory at 3 1/2" or less. Zeroing as far as practical makes things a lot simpler in the field. Longer point blank range and less dialing or hold over farther out. A technique to fine tune your zero is to check it at a longer range. Lets' say you want a 200 yd zero (some bullets may not go to sleep yet at this range). Shoot a group at 200 for zero then shoot another group at let's say 500 yds to check your drop against your 200 yd zero. (This should be done after you have done some drop checks to confirm your velocity and BC.) If your data shows you should be 6 MOA and your actual drop is 6.5 MOA, then adjust your elevation zero by .5 MOA. For windage zero, I am considering zeroing at longer range to minimize the affect of coriolis and spin drift. If I zero my windage at let's say 800 yds, it may be off slightly at closer ranges (but not enough to matter) but should be very close at 1K plus. Just some things to think about. -Mark [/QUOTE]
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