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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Your reloading process. The long version.
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<blockquote data-quote="3sixbits" data-source="post: 66403" data-attributes="member: 3661"><p>Most BR shooters clean there brass between reloads at the range using a product that is a treated wool like material, many use a neck brush on the inside of the necks, some use these on a cordless screw driver. Normally at the end of the match I throw my brass in the trash can, start with new prepped case for the next match. These cases will have a lot of reloads on them by the end of the match day. I've heard the same thing about the rouge in the polish media. I don't know. Most barrels (the really good ones) don't really loose accuracy as they wear. They just get harder to get clean before the next relay (that is your turn to shoot again) remember you have to get your ammo ready also for your next relay. The barrels that some shooters refer to as hummer barrels are a great example of this problem, once you hit over 2000 to 2500 rds in the PPC or 6BR there going to take to much time to get them clean enough to shoot before you run out of time. Competitive shooters are not looking for that once in a while small group, they are looking at how the barrel aggs for 5 five shot targets. Back to your other question about sizing your .308 brass. Try this, decap the cases in a separate die without any expander ball. Remove the rod from your sizer die and size your brass. Use a separate neck expander die to bring the necks back to size. Pain in the fanny huh ? remember those off the shelf dies are a mine fields of trouble. What your sizer die is doing is bring the neck down to small in size then dragging the neck back over the expander ball to get it to the correct size to hold the bullet. This is the manufacturer solution to the mass market of SAMMI spec rifle chambers, brass makers, bullet makers products. If you have a barrel that really shoots no BS groups, and don't have dies as I mentioned in the other post, well it's time to do a chamber cast with cerriosafe and get a die cut to size for your chamber. There are a few guys out there that can do this for you or you can ( for a small fee) have the sizer die you have now bored out to taker sizing rings. There is a fellow in PS mag that advertises that service. This is a good way to go. Now you can control the neck tension on your bullets, this is a great leap forward for you with this kind of control. I have left the seating die out of all this because it really doesn't matter until the brass is right. Necks straight, case mouths properly chamfered, brass you know is straight (not banana shaped) What all this is leading up to, is good measuring tools. You need a good case mic ie. tubing mic or a better way is a case spinner. Someway to measure the thickness of the case mouths. A side benefit is being able to tell if the case heads are square. They will allow you to check for runnout on the seated bullets also. The one I use is the NECO. That does not mean there are not others as good or better out their. What this does mean is without a way to check, you don't have a clue what your loads are really like, or where your problems with dies, components or press lie. ( By the way if you are wondering about that expander ball, it is a short road to crooked necks. Remember that funny drag and feeling you had when pulling the case out of the die? That sound is the got you sound the die just made telling you it made a crooked neck.) Back to the seating die! OK, "STRAIGHT LINE SEATING" ie. WILSON. Look at Wilson's drawing of there seating die and one picture is worth a thousand words. Well 4Ked Horn I've got to get back down to the shop as the boss has been throwing nasty looks my way, "WOMEN" ! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="3sixbits, post: 66403, member: 3661"] Most BR shooters clean there brass between reloads at the range using a product that is a treated wool like material, many use a neck brush on the inside of the necks, some use these on a cordless screw driver. Normally at the end of the match I throw my brass in the trash can, start with new prepped case for the next match. These cases will have a lot of reloads on them by the end of the match day. I've heard the same thing about the rouge in the polish media. I don't know. Most barrels (the really good ones) don't really loose accuracy as they wear. They just get harder to get clean before the next relay (that is your turn to shoot again) remember you have to get your ammo ready also for your next relay. The barrels that some shooters refer to as hummer barrels are a great example of this problem, once you hit over 2000 to 2500 rds in the PPC or 6BR there going to take to much time to get them clean enough to shoot before you run out of time. Competitive shooters are not looking for that once in a while small group, they are looking at how the barrel aggs for 5 five shot targets. Back to your other question about sizing your .308 brass. Try this, decap the cases in a separate die without any expander ball. Remove the rod from your sizer die and size your brass. Use a separate neck expander die to bring the necks back to size. Pain in the fanny huh ? remember those off the shelf dies are a mine fields of trouble. What your sizer die is doing is bring the neck down to small in size then dragging the neck back over the expander ball to get it to the correct size to hold the bullet. This is the manufacturer solution to the mass market of SAMMI spec rifle chambers, brass makers, bullet makers products. If you have a barrel that really shoots no BS groups, and don't have dies as I mentioned in the other post, well it's time to do a chamber cast with cerriosafe and get a die cut to size for your chamber. There are a few guys out there that can do this for you or you can ( for a small fee) have the sizer die you have now bored out to taker sizing rings. There is a fellow in PS mag that advertises that service. This is a good way to go. Now you can control the neck tension on your bullets, this is a great leap forward for you with this kind of control. I have left the seating die out of all this because it really doesn't matter until the brass is right. Necks straight, case mouths properly chamfered, brass you know is straight (not banana shaped) What all this is leading up to, is good measuring tools. You need a good case mic ie. tubing mic or a better way is a case spinner. Someway to measure the thickness of the case mouths. A side benefit is being able to tell if the case heads are square. They will allow you to check for runnout on the seated bullets also. The one I use is the NECO. That does not mean there are not others as good or better out their. What this does mean is without a way to check, you don't have a clue what your loads are really like, or where your problems with dies, components or press lie. ( By the way if you are wondering about that expander ball, it is a short road to crooked necks. Remember that funny drag and feeling you had when pulling the case out of the die? That sound is the got you sound the die just made telling you it made a crooked neck.) Back to the seating die! OK, "STRAIGHT LINE SEATING" ie. WILSON. Look at Wilson's drawing of there seating die and one picture is worth a thousand words. Well 4Ked Horn I've got to get back down to the shop as the boss has been throwing nasty looks my way, "WOMEN" ! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [/QUOTE]
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Reloading
Your reloading process. The long version.
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