Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Yet another DIY bedding question
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="jdyoung" data-source="post: 1888981" data-attributes="member: 113391"><p>To provide clearance, I use Pasco PVC Pipe Wrap, very sticky, <strong>stays in place, </strong>0.009" - 0.010" thick. I use 3 layers on recoil lug sides, bottom, back ( <em>by back I mean the side toward the muzzle)</em>. That clearance allows easy removal of barreled action by grasping the barrel in front of the forend tip. Lift up , barrel and action move in an upward arc with the rear tang being the last to come off the action inletting. Upon first upward movement, the face of the recoil lug moves away from bedding surface. That minimizes any sliding contact with the recoil lug and the bedding surface. I use Steel Bed on the inletting of the front ring and locking lug regardless of whether I pillar bed or not.</p><p></p><p>Screws are torqued . Slotted screws are adjusted so when torqued the slot is parallel with the rifle bore.</p><p>Hex screws are also torqued and a witness mark/line parallel to the bore is stamped on screw head and bottom metal to show when screws are at proper torque. That way ,<span style="font-size: 22px"> <strong><em>"</em></strong></span><span style="font-size: 18px"><strong><em>If</em></strong></span><span style="font-size: 22px"><strong><em> "</em></strong></span><strong><em>in the field something happens and a disassembly is needed</em></strong>, the rifle can be taken out of the stock and put back without having a torque screwdriver. Just line up the screw slot or witness mark</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jdyoung, post: 1888981, member: 113391"] To provide clearance, I use Pasco PVC Pipe Wrap, very sticky, [B]stays in place, [/B]0.009" - 0.010" thick. I use 3 layers on recoil lug sides, bottom, back ( [I]by back I mean the side toward the muzzle)[/I]. That clearance allows easy removal of barreled action by grasping the barrel in front of the forend tip. Lift up , barrel and action move in an upward arc with the rear tang being the last to come off the action inletting. Upon first upward movement, the face of the recoil lug moves away from bedding surface. That minimizes any sliding contact with the recoil lug and the bedding surface. I use Steel Bed on the inletting of the front ring and locking lug regardless of whether I pillar bed or not. Screws are torqued . Slotted screws are adjusted so when torqued the slot is parallel with the rifle bore. Hex screws are also torqued and a witness mark/line parallel to the bore is stamped on screw head and bottom metal to show when screws are at proper torque. That way ,[SIZE=6] [B][I]"[/I][/B][/SIZE][SIZE=5][B][I]If[/I][/B][/SIZE][SIZE=6][B][I] "[/I][/B][/SIZE][B][I]in the field something happens and a disassembly is needed[/I][/B], the rifle can be taken out of the stock and put back without having a torque screwdriver. Just line up the screw slot or witness mark [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Yet another DIY bedding question
Top