Would a muzzle brake help with control?

[tylercleary]

I have a SS BDL 300 Win Mag. that I would like to use for LRH this year but have problems with control out in the field. From bags I can group ½ inch fairly consistently shooting Sierra 180's - which I'm pleased with. The problem is I've really got to pull the rifle into me and down to maintain that group, if I loosen up my grip much the groups start to open up and I get fliers. When I chrony'd and developed a drop chart for this round I ended up missing my target half the time because I don't hold the rifle the same way out in the field.

I've never used a muzzle brake but have been entertaining the idea of installing one in the hope that I can shoot more reliably from sticks or a bag. I like the rifle a lot but is it too light for long range accuracy?

My other idea is to buy a PSS in 300 Win Mag that keeps catching my attention at a local gun shop. I have other heavy barreled target rifles and I know they're a lot more stable (longer and heavier), but I don't relish the idea of lugging a 12 or more pounds of rifle around the mountains.


…Any ideas??

 

[sniperVLS]

well as far as brakes go, Im sending in the Sendero Im getting to these guys...

http://www.jprifles.com/Remington700.html

Ive heard from several people the recoil eliminator does very well, and any little bit will help when it comes to shooting off the bench with a .300 win mag, for me it well anyways.

for $500.00, they do any rifle and its not just the eliminator, click on that link and check it out.

If I dont like it as much as I thought, no biggie. Im already saving a lot on the Sendero so it wont hurt me either way really.

 

[Ballistic64]

The JP Eliminator is what I'll be putting on my 338LM also.A lot of people dont like the looks of the clamshell type brake,but I guess Ive always had a different view on whats fashionable,especially when its extremely effective.A word of warning though,if you plan on shooting any competitions,most all ban the use of the clamshell type brake.

 

[sniperVLS]

No competitions, just local friendly contests and hunting.

I like the looks of it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Ill take effectiveness over looks as well, but when I dont mind how it looks, its a win win situation.

Ballistic64, do you have any more info about their process? or just whats posted on that page. They do quite a bit but I hope its not all smoke and mirrors. What I do like is that they say they wont ship it back to us unless they think they could personally win competitions with it.

Id be interested in knowing how well it tames the recoil on your .338, keep me up to date. I'm going to go ahead with this in about a month so I have some time yet.

 

[Ballistic64]

snipervls, sorry no info on the accurizing by JP,I just went ahead and bought one for the LM project because I knew its what I wanted.This rifle wont be completed for sometime,I waited almost 3 months for the action from Nesika and because of a change of mind in barrel choice itll probably be another 2-3 for the barrel from Lilja.And I still havent quite got the dimesions fully decided upon for the reamer (been trying to pick D. Tooleys mind a little on this /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif).Ive also contacted Alex at Masterclass because when all the metal shaving gets done itll be headed to him for his Master 1000 Benchrest stock.Im still hoping for next spring/summer though. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Ballistic64]

snipervls, after looking at JPs accurizing procedure,I believe you would get better results from one of the smiths on this board.There is no reference whatsoever to actually truing the action which is what is really needed with a Rem action.They only mention lapping the bolt lugs.

 

[tylercleary]

Thanks guys for the information, but I can't see putting a brake like that on my 24" Sporter barrel. The largest brake I was looking at was the Holland quick discharge.

I do want to know what others are using… or not using - Am I asking too much of a light weight magnum rifle? Or is it just me?

 

[Ballistic64]

Hollands QD and OPS Inc.s brakes are very popular and effective.

 

[ss7mm]

TAC:

I have a Holland QD brake on a 7mm Wby. mag. And Kirby is installing two more Hollands on 2 new rifles for me this summer. They work great and really do reduce the felt recoil. Also, because of the design, muzzle lift is reduced or eliminated and spotting your own shots is easy.

 

[heatseekins]

I have a Vais break on my 300 win mag and it kicks less than my 308, probably closer to a 243. The Vais is also the quietest one I have been around. If shooting prone it kicks up the dirt a little more, but it is tolerable. I have shot this rifle about 100 times in one day in many different shooting positions comfortably and I weigh 165 lbs. They screw onto the end of the barrel, so they can easily be taken off if you want to shoot it in a comp. yes it will help you with control. I can usually see impact as it doesn't jump or torque like before. While shooting off a bench I am able to shoot it with one hand under the but, squeezing a bag. I won't own another 300 without one.

Glen

 

[Mysticplayer]

Without a doubt, a muzzle brake will help with stability and recovery with a magnum. The big issue is noise. You don't shoot one of these without ear protection or you will get hurt!!!.

Saying that, all my LR hunting rifles wear muzzle brakes because I hunt from static locations and have time for ear muffs.

The one I have on my 7RM is both economical and works great. It's the Micaluk (sp?) AR15 brake. Had it screwed onto my Savage 110 sporter barrel and exit hole enlarged. You should be able to have one bought and installed for $150 or under. That's great value.

Multichamber, side ported brake that is quite wide. Recoil reduction is wonderful. More like a 22/250 then a 7RM launcing 162gr bullets in a 9lbs rifle. LOUD but that means the brake is working.

You might like this for your rifle.

Jerry

 

[tylercleary]

Thanks everyone for the information. I think I'll go ahead an plan to have one installed (I'll look at the Vais and other as well). I'll have a barrel cap made incase I prefer to shoot without it.


Cheers.


Tyler

 

[Guest]

I read your intitial post....

you say you have to pull the rifle into you ( thats good ) and down??? How are you pulling the rifle down?? are you placing your hand on the rifle ie: on top of the barrel to keep it down, or to keep it from jumping? I have seen lotsa guys do this at the range and then they wonder why they can't hit squat afield.. you really screw up- the barrel harmonics when ya do that...

I agree you should have a break installed but if you are doing the above you may want to have the barrel free floated as well. even a full accurizing job...

it sounds like the is more to it than just a break...
I would also practice from a bi-pod or how you will be shooting afield...I have yet to see hunters carrying sandbags for dee hunting /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[tylercleary]

Rick,
The barrel is free floated and the laminated stock has been pillar bedded and the action glass bedded.

I'm pulling the rifle into my shoulder and my weight is pushing the rifle down into the rear sand bag (not excessively, but firm). My free hand rides the stock up along side the stock and my index finger applies downward pressure when I'm ready to fire.
Now normally, with my heavier rifles (in varmint calibers…22-250 and 243) my free hand sits behind the bolt and is part of my setup for my cheek/stock contact. Barrel jump is not an issue with these rifles.

I spoke to my local gun smith and he said that a brake may help, but the larger magnum, light weight hunters are going to move around more just from the torque of the bullet through the barrel – and that light rifles do not make good long range rigs (in large magnum calibers).

I respect his opinion, but it is just one opinion and I've seen others shoot well with hunting weight rifles… this was the catalyst for my original question.

I will still try a brake before I buy the PSS.



Tyler