Winchester Laredo

Discussion in 'The Basics, Starting Out' started by easton19, Feb 22, 2006.

  1. easton19

    easton19 Member

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    I have recently traded for a Winchester Laredo LRH in 7mm stw I will be mounting a Leupold VX-3 6.5-20-40 scope in Leupold Dual Dovetail mounts is this a good set-up? any info would be greately appreciated
     
  2. BountyHunter

    BountyHunter Writers Guild

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    You have an excellant setup. Only thing I might change is to change the rings to the Burris signature double dovetail with 10 MOA inserts front and rear for a 20 MOA equivalent.

    Other than that, load and shoot it. Look at the 150s and 160s for starters.

    BH
     

  3. Desert Fox

    Desert Fox Well-Known Member

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    I'm not a fan of dual dovetail mount. A friend of mine swears by them but he always had difficulty adjusting his scope. My advice, a one piece base is much better than a two piece base, if you want to go that route. I used two piece Leupold reversible conventional, Redfield style on my 300 Win Mag Laredo and still have to shimmed the rear base because, although I have enough elevation on my Leupold Vari-XIII 4.5X15X30 Tactical, I just hate to lose any clicks if I don't need to, when mounting a scope. With this set up, I have no problem dialing to 1000 yards and beyond.
     
  4. remingtonman_25_06

    remingtonman_25_06 Well-Known Member

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    do people really need a 10 moa or even 20 moa base for flat shooting cartridges out to 1000 yards?? Like i've said in some other posts, i shoot my 25-06 out to 800 yards w/out any special rings or base and i still have plenty of clicks left. I also shoot out to 1150 with my 300 rum, again with no special rings or base. I still have a lot of clicks left on that MK4. All im using is the standard leupold 1 piece base and rings.
     
  5. Bart B

    Bart B Well-Known Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    do people really need a 10 moa or even 20 moa base for flat shooting cartridges out to 1000 yards??

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Yes, if they want the full amount of windage adjustment to correct for very strong cross winds and/or to correct for a misalignment of the bore with the receiver axis.
     
  6. bailey1474

    bailey1474 <strong>SPONSOR</strong>

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Yes, if they want the full amount of windage adjustment to correct for very strong cross winds and/or to correct for a misalignment of the bore with the receiver axis.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    What /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif? The only sense I can make of this is that you are saying scopes are more repeatable in the middle of their adjustments. A 20 MOA rail has no effect on widage.
     
  7. Desert Fox

    Desert Fox Well-Known Member

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    Bill, Try this.
    Find the center position of the windage and elevation of your scope's reticle or the erector tube inside your scope and then turn the windage either left or right until the dial won't turn no more.. Rotate the elevation turret one complete revolution and then repeat turning the windage either left or right direction again. You'll find out that you will loose windage clicks everytime you do this. Trust me, your 20 MOA rail has a direct or I might say indirect effect on the windage.
     
  8. bailey1474

    bailey1474 <strong>SPONSOR</strong>

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    [ QUOTE ]
    You'll find out that you will loose windage clicks everytime you do this.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I'd be curious to know just how much windage you loose. I've got a Leupy VariXIII just sitting around (hint, hint Kirby /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif) that I'll try that on. I'm going to make the bold prediction that I don't loose more than 1 MOA in the middle 90% of the scopes adjustment. Maybe I'll be proven wrong. We'll see.
     
  9. bailey1474

    bailey1474 <strong>SPONSOR</strong>

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    Ok, you guys were right about the loss of windage. I cranked a Mark 4 16x and a VX III until the windage bottomed out, then I backed it up 1 MOA. I then cranked the elevation all the way down. I lost 1 MOA on the Mark 4 and 1.5 MOA on the VX III.

    If I came up 2 MOA on the elevation, I got the windage back. Since I would never bottom a scope out (and even if I did I would only loose 1-2 MOA), I don't see that your concerns are warranted when using a quality scope.

    Buy quality. Buy something w/70 + MOA adjustment and you don't need a canted base to get to 1000 yds +. With that said, every rifle I own has a 20 MOA rail on it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  10. Guest

    Guest Guest

    The loss of windage will be noticed when cranking for the realy long shot. If its realy windy you wont be taking that 1000y shot so the loss in windage is not a problem.
     
  11. remingtonman_25_06

    remingtonman_25_06 Well-Known Member

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    Harv, thats what I was thinking. Who can shoot 1000 plus yards in gale force winds and expect to hit anything with consistency. I mena like 20 mph winds, unless you have an allen mag, prolly not very likely. I'm just with bill on this one, if you have somewhat flat shooting caliber, to get to 1000 yards, you dont need a special canted base. For 1000 yards more, yah you do, or if your shooting a 308 or something, I dont know, I dont do ballistic comparisons for a 308. All I nkow is that with a 1" tube vx2 scope, I can get out to 800 yards with a 25-06 zeroed at 200 yards, and I could probly get to 1000 yards with it. Just using the $20 regular rings and base from leupold. So 40 bux for the mounting system vs. 150 bux for a base thats not really needed unless your shooting more then 1000 yards. Just my opinion anyways.