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The Basics, Starting Out
Wildcat Bullets best accuracy...Kirby and others
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<blockquote data-quote="Fiftydriver" data-source="post: 66069" data-attributes="member: 10"><p>Harv,</p><p></p><p>All the points Dave mentioned are good points. Cutting a fresh match grade crown on your muzzle will often do wonders for your groups.</p><p></p><p>Other things to look at are bolt lug contact. THey should me baring evenly and in a perfect world at 100% contact. This will not be the case with a factory rifle but they should bare evenly at least. If they do not you will get inconsistancy at higher pressure loads.</p><p></p><p>Trigger pulls are also critical. Not in that they make a rifle accurate or inaccurate but they allow you to pilot them much better if you have a quality trigger pull. It does not have to be excessively light either. I actually use a 2 3/4 lb pull on all my big game rifle designed for hunting out to the half mile mark.</p><p></p><p>I do this because I use them in cold weather and my fingers are not as sensitive compared to warmer shooting conditions. For extreme range shooting I do drop trigger weight to a bit under 1/2 lb but these triggers are on dedicated extreme range rifles.</p><p></p><p>To be flat out honest with you, if you have an injection molded stock which is basically high density plastic, I would recommend investing in a quality aftermarket stock either in composite or laminate wood.</p><p></p><p>Bedding jobs in these plastic stocks may hold for now but eventually they will break free of the stock. This generally happens in cold weather which is generally a real bad time for it to happen because around here that means big game season.</p><p></p><p>I would recommend something from Boyds for a Laminated wood stock and either Pillar bed the rifle yourself or have a smith do it for you. </p><p></p><p>Once the rifle is bedded, float the barrel channel to insure there is no stock contact with the barrel. Keep in mind that as a factory barrel, it is not uncommon for them to shoot better with a little up pressure at the tip of the forend. This is generally because the factory machining is not what we would call match grade stuff and the barrel will vibrate irregullarly if totally freefloated.</p><p></p><p>TO solve this, after bedding the receiver, put two strips of thick electricians tape on the bottom of the receiver in front and back of each action screw. Then mix up some bedding compound such as marine tex and put a dab in the barrel channel about an inch behind the end of the forend. set the receiver in and engage the rear action screw first, this is very important. Hold the barrel up slightly as you do this. When the rear action screw is just shy of tightening up, start the front action screw still keeping the barrel held up out of the barrel channel.</p><p></p><p>Once you get the front action screw started, go back to teh rear and tighten it until it is snug. Then go to the front again and tighten it to snug. As you do this allow the barrel to be pulled down into the barrel channel.</p><p></p><p>There is no need to really tighten the screws down tight. Just get them tight enough to hold teh receiver securely in the stock. </p><p></p><p>Make sure nothing pushes down on the barrel as the bedding compound is setting up. Make sure you use release agent as well on the barrel!!!</p><p></p><p>Once the stock has set up for 24 hours, pull the receiver screws and pull the barreled action out of the stock. Set the stock aside for another two days to allow it to cure fully.</p><p></p><p>After that, take a dremmel tool with a small ball cutter about 1/8" wide and cut out a groove in barrel support pad in the bottom of the barrel channel. Make this around 1/4" wide, depending on your barrel contour. If its a #4 or less cut this groove only 1/8 to 3/16 wide.</p><p></p><p>Then clean up the rest of the support pad. What we want is a strip on both sides of the barrel channel roughly 1" long and trimmed down so that you can just barely not see the pad from above when the barrel is in place.</p><p></p><p>Pull the tape off the bottom of the receiver and install the barreled action and tighten down to the recommended specs.</p><p></p><p>What you have just done is made a V-pad that not only will provide slight up pressure on the factory barrel which will help control inconsistant vibrations patterns but it also will give the barrel some side support as well which will help even more.</p><p></p><p>This is only done after testing with a floated barrel, you may not need to mess with this at all.</p><p></p><p>What Wildcat bullets are you trying?</p><p></p><p>Hope this helps some.</p><p></p><p>Good Shooting!!</p><p></p><p>Kirby Allen(50)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fiftydriver, post: 66069, member: 10"] Harv, All the points Dave mentioned are good points. Cutting a fresh match grade crown on your muzzle will often do wonders for your groups. Other things to look at are bolt lug contact. THey should me baring evenly and in a perfect world at 100% contact. This will not be the case with a factory rifle but they should bare evenly at least. If they do not you will get inconsistancy at higher pressure loads. Trigger pulls are also critical. Not in that they make a rifle accurate or inaccurate but they allow you to pilot them much better if you have a quality trigger pull. It does not have to be excessively light either. I actually use a 2 3/4 lb pull on all my big game rifle designed for hunting out to the half mile mark. I do this because I use them in cold weather and my fingers are not as sensitive compared to warmer shooting conditions. For extreme range shooting I do drop trigger weight to a bit under 1/2 lb but these triggers are on dedicated extreme range rifles. To be flat out honest with you, if you have an injection molded stock which is basically high density plastic, I would recommend investing in a quality aftermarket stock either in composite or laminate wood. Bedding jobs in these plastic stocks may hold for now but eventually they will break free of the stock. This generally happens in cold weather which is generally a real bad time for it to happen because around here that means big game season. I would recommend something from Boyds for a Laminated wood stock and either Pillar bed the rifle yourself or have a smith do it for you. Once the rifle is bedded, float the barrel channel to insure there is no stock contact with the barrel. Keep in mind that as a factory barrel, it is not uncommon for them to shoot better with a little up pressure at the tip of the forend. This is generally because the factory machining is not what we would call match grade stuff and the barrel will vibrate irregullarly if totally freefloated. TO solve this, after bedding the receiver, put two strips of thick electricians tape on the bottom of the receiver in front and back of each action screw. Then mix up some bedding compound such as marine tex and put a dab in the barrel channel about an inch behind the end of the forend. set the receiver in and engage the rear action screw first, this is very important. Hold the barrel up slightly as you do this. When the rear action screw is just shy of tightening up, start the front action screw still keeping the barrel held up out of the barrel channel. Once you get the front action screw started, go back to teh rear and tighten it until it is snug. Then go to the front again and tighten it to snug. As you do this allow the barrel to be pulled down into the barrel channel. There is no need to really tighten the screws down tight. Just get them tight enough to hold teh receiver securely in the stock. Make sure nothing pushes down on the barrel as the bedding compound is setting up. Make sure you use release agent as well on the barrel!!! Once the stock has set up for 24 hours, pull the receiver screws and pull the barreled action out of the stock. Set the stock aside for another two days to allow it to cure fully. After that, take a dremmel tool with a small ball cutter about 1/8" wide and cut out a groove in barrel support pad in the bottom of the barrel channel. Make this around 1/4" wide, depending on your barrel contour. If its a #4 or less cut this groove only 1/8 to 3/16 wide. Then clean up the rest of the support pad. What we want is a strip on both sides of the barrel channel roughly 1" long and trimmed down so that you can just barely not see the pad from above when the barrel is in place. Pull the tape off the bottom of the receiver and install the barreled action and tighten down to the recommended specs. What you have just done is made a V-pad that not only will provide slight up pressure on the factory barrel which will help control inconsistant vibrations patterns but it also will give the barrel some side support as well which will help even more. This is only done after testing with a floated barrel, you may not need to mess with this at all. What Wildcat bullets are you trying? Hope this helps some. Good Shooting!! Kirby Allen(50) [/QUOTE]
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