Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Why start at 10% below maximum?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="LouBoyd" data-source="post: 536217" data-attributes="member: 9253"><p>You have the choice of starting where you want when reloading. I choose to start with 10% reduced loads when I change components or change the firearm the ammo will be used in. While it is a safety precaution it's also the first step of a "ladder test" to determine where the firearm will have accuracy nodes. The lower pressure loads are not "wasted" They are part of achieving accuracy. Best accuracy may or may not be found at "factory" pressure or SAAMI max levels. That's the main reason I handload, to achieve better accuracy than I get using factory ammo. For some firearms factory ammo works just fine. Factory loads however are nearly always limited to SAAMI dimensions which are often not optimum. </p><p></p><p>Pressure signs are not the same for all cartridges or for all firearms using the same cartridge.. Primer flattening and case head growth may work fine for modern high pressure rifles but it may not be good for low pressure firearms like AR-15s with large diameter cartridges or antique rifles or some pistol designs. An example is the 6.5 Grendel where bolt or barrel extension breakage is likely if you use the same pressure signs as are suitable for a 223 AR-15. </p><p></p><p>There are lots of factors which affect the peak chamber pressure. Many are obvious like powder selection, charge weight, and bullet weight. Some are not so obvious like seating depth, seating space from the lands, leade angle of the throat, bullet engraving forces, bullet volume dependence on core material, brass case volume vs manufacturer, etc.. If several of those variables come together on a "first load" pressures can go high enough to be dangerous. There is more than just the danger of blowing up and injuring yourself. Hot loads will damage most firearms long before they blow up. </p><p></p><p>Obviously you don't have to start 10% low every time you sit down at the loading bench and make more cartridges using the same components you used previously with that cartridge for that firearm. There is no guarantee that if you screw up by using the wrong powder a 10 % reduced starting charge will keep you safe. Using VV N310 instead of VV N130 powder will llikely become a bomb even with the reduced charge weight.</p><p></p><p>Ultimately how you handload is your choice. There are a lot of things in life which are dangerous. Driving a car far more likely to kill you than handloading. But like driving a car it only takes screwing up once by you or someone else to make you dead. Rules are important. Thinking about what you're doing and understanding the consequences are even more important.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="LouBoyd, post: 536217, member: 9253"] You have the choice of starting where you want when reloading. I choose to start with 10% reduced loads when I change components or change the firearm the ammo will be used in. While it is a safety precaution it's also the first step of a "ladder test" to determine where the firearm will have accuracy nodes. The lower pressure loads are not "wasted" They are part of achieving accuracy. Best accuracy may or may not be found at "factory" pressure or SAAMI max levels. That's the main reason I handload, to achieve better accuracy than I get using factory ammo. For some firearms factory ammo works just fine. Factory loads however are nearly always limited to SAAMI dimensions which are often not optimum. Pressure signs are not the same for all cartridges or for all firearms using the same cartridge.. Primer flattening and case head growth may work fine for modern high pressure rifles but it may not be good for low pressure firearms like AR-15s with large diameter cartridges or antique rifles or some pistol designs. An example is the 6.5 Grendel where bolt or barrel extension breakage is likely if you use the same pressure signs as are suitable for a 223 AR-15. There are lots of factors which affect the peak chamber pressure. Many are obvious like powder selection, charge weight, and bullet weight. Some are not so obvious like seating depth, seating space from the lands, leade angle of the throat, bullet engraving forces, bullet volume dependence on core material, brass case volume vs manufacturer, etc.. If several of those variables come together on a "first load" pressures can go high enough to be dangerous. There is more than just the danger of blowing up and injuring yourself. Hot loads will damage most firearms long before they blow up. Obviously you don't have to start 10% low every time you sit down at the loading bench and make more cartridges using the same components you used previously with that cartridge for that firearm. There is no guarantee that if you screw up by using the wrong powder a 10 % reduced starting charge will keep you safe. Using VV N310 instead of VV N130 powder will llikely become a bomb even with the reduced charge weight. Ultimately how you handload is your choice. There are a lot of things in life which are dangerous. Driving a car far more likely to kill you than handloading. But like driving a car it only takes screwing up once by you or someone else to make you dead. Rules are important. Thinking about what you're doing and understanding the consequences are even more important. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Why start at 10% below maximum?
Top